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BusinessGirly · May 16th, 2008

This is something I figured out by practicing on the same shirt, printing the same design down the front of the shirt.

I used the heat gun to dry the first print which was not very crisp...you know how those white on black shirts are; either faded looking ink, or to much ink and blurred from over doing it.
So after I used the heat gun, I went to print another....it actually came out perfect! I put the heat to that one as well...then another...perfect!
I took a short break and came back, this time it came out bad
Why? I cured that one and did another...perfect!...then...

omg! Could it be the heat? Is warming the shirt first helping? I noticed that as I printed the ink was not as thick. But I thought that the heat made the ink dry...not loosen up

But this worked for me. I went to get my black shirts. I pre-heated each of them and they all came out PERFECTLY!

I wore one today I was so proud!
I hope this helps someone who is trying to print white ink on black shirts and finding it difficult to get a quality print.

PRE-HEAT!

(If someone already discovered this (which I am sure they have), please don't ruin my moment...I feel special!!

)

ragees · May 18th, 2008

I dont really understand but it sounds kinda weird...
also what temperature do you preheat the and then I think it would be a bit dangerous printing the warm shirt and maybe risking to start curing the ink while it's still in the screen.
How many shierts did you do??
it would take a hell of a long time to preheat every shirt.

But hey nice of you sharing this.
I'll be trying it on one of my own shirts at the end of the run or something.

Thanks

BusinessGirly · May 18th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by ragees


	I dont really understand but it sounds kinda weird... also what temperature do you preheat the and then I think it would be a bit dangerous printing the warm shirt and maybe risking to start curing the ink while it's still in the screen. How many shierts did you do?? it would take a hell of a long time to preheat every shirt. But hey nice of you sharing this. I'll be trying it on one of my own shirts at the end of the run or something. Thanks

I have no idea what temperature it was, I was using a heat gun. I had it on high and heated the shirt for about 10 seconds...not the whole shirt, just the print area which was only about 10 inches wide and 2 inches tall.

I would think it would cure the ink on the screen also, but somehow it didn't. The ink got kinda soft...more fluid. I only printed 12 shirts which took me about 2 hours (about 10 minutes per shirt). But remember this was my first run since I got my equipment and I hope to increase my speed with experience.

But I said that to illustrate how much time I had the ink on the screen...2 hours with heated shirts and no curing on the screen. When I was done I reclaimed the left over ink and pressure washed any ink remaining from my design with the appropriate chemical and put it away to use again.

I actually printed 6 more shirts with the same screen and technique yesterday and they all came out perfect again! So the screen was not clogged with any residual ink or anything like that. It worked just the same as before.

macmiller · May 18th, 2008

i do that with the flash, it helps take out moisture (aka shrink) so that after the you flash the first print, it's already "preshrunk" and makes the 2nd print line up way better.

the shirt would have to get really hot before ink would cure in the screen or on the shirt.

ragees · May 19th, 2008

Well this sounds good, I'll be trying it out next week.
Pop my shirts in the oven for 15 secs.

youtees · May 19th, 2008

sorry to ruin your special moment, but what you discovered(unfortunately by mistake)is the widely known MUST of printing with warm platens. This id done for several reasons. If you make a first print aonm a cold platen and then flash it, you will most certainly shrink the shirt due to the temperature differential you created between the platen(and so design)between your first print and the last(or overlay print). But even this fact is secondary. Because printing whites on dark fabs will require two layers of ink...THAT is why you start with warm boards. Not hot enough to cure the plastisol as one poster worries will happen...but because flash cure times will be reasonably short(6 to 10 seconds or so)when the board(s)are not sucking up all the heat meant to flash cure the shirt between prints. So...it is just a normal function involved that your boards/platens should be rather warm during this process. it just comes with flashing. If i do anything here i hope to abolish the use of heat guns for ANY step of screen printing!!!! Yikes OMG and BLEH!!! to heat guns. Truth: You can get a faster and better/more even flash cure by mivng a 500 watt halogen work lamp low and slow over your design(About $10.00 at any hardware store). I guarantee you it will work better than that heat gun. There is a company or two that passes along the heat gun ignorance to help sell their equipment(it isn't slamming if it is true!)and I just in one sentence told you a better way to do it(halogen). Better yet...a few seconds in your oven(while still on the platen)under the broiler element is even better for flashing. Please EVERYBODY....toss that heat gun!!! It is just one of the erroneous things that is aimed at noobs to hold them back. 'Doable' yes...but you can also dig your way to Australia. If nobody told you we have jets. I am amazed at how many people are putting up with the spotty and time consuming use associated with heat guns. I have taught a LOT of people to print about everything and I would never tell anyone to use a heat gun. because I know better. I suspect those who told you you should knew better too. Make it easier on yourself. LOSE that heat gun. You will feel MUCH special'er' if you do.

ragees · May 20th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by youtees


	If i do anything here i hope to abolish the use of heat guns for ANY step of screen printing!!!! Yikes OMG and BLEH!!! to heat guns. Truth: You can get a faster and better/more even flash cure by mivng a 500 watt halogen work lamp low and slow over your design(About $10.00 at any hardware store). I guarantee you it will work better than that heat gun. Better yet...a few seconds in your oven(while still on the platen)under the broiler element is even better for flashing. Please EVERYBODY....toss that heat gun!!!

I got my heat gun with the kit I bought and I think I did not even plug it in once.
I use my oven instead and works just fine.
The only thing is I'm not too sure about the toxicity of the plastisol fumes but I try to keep all te windows open and breathe up the least possible amount.

S toss your guns and use ovens.
Peace

MotoskinGraphix · May 20th, 2008

How hot does a halogen lamp actually get? I saw a curing table somewhere with four lamps.
I dont think unbolting the platen with shirt on board and sticking it in the oven is an option.

youtees · May 20th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotoskinGraphix


	How hot does a halogen lamp actually get? I saw a curing table somewhere with four lamps. I dont think unbolting the platen with shirt on board and sticking it in the oven is an option.

Ha! You are right...that is why my rack system is designed so the platen can be easily lifted for using ones oven for flashing. I figured out a way to do it easily and it saves people with electric ovens from having to buy a $400 plus flash cure unit. Since you are stuck with a platen you cannot move to suit both print and flash phases, then you certainly can use the halogen work light. If you take the glass off the front of it and hold it about an inch above your tee and move it slowly across it will flash faster than a heat gun. both ways are 'caveman' but the halogen is LESS 'caveman' than the heat gun...if you need to do some sort of pre-cure and do not have a flash cure or the option my equipment has.
I am guessing you just want to put a quick flash on things so your print time won't be slowed by the 'forever' it takes to do final curing with a flash cure later. If you are not able to incorporate thje oven for flashing then at least try it for full cures as it will save you much time there.
You most likey can convert your press to a bayonet type mount so that it is stable for printing and yet removable for oven flashing. but most don't think of it or try. If you do much printing it is worth rigging that way.
My rack press has a bilevel platen that sits exactly where it needs to for the print and moves easily to the oven for the few seconds flash; comes back to print position. It amazes me that even one color presses made by others and selling for what they do, do not incorporate some such feature to make it easier and faster for all buying and using! Oh wait a minute...its because they hope you will buy a flash cure too! I guess I think with a printers mind far more than a sellers mind. I look for the logic that so many ignore.
I do not know how hot exactly a 500 watt halogen gets. It gets PLENTY hot enough(and more evenly than a heat gun). I cure left crest designs fully and baby shirt prints fully in 12 to 16 seconds. Been doing that for years on my little prints. You will need to move it around a bit obviously for bigger prints/precures(which I built larger halogen flash to use when I am doing full prints; using my rotary, which I also built...I use the same microtuning -of my design- on all my equipment). You just have to get the spacing and time right. Which you have to do with any sort of flash cure.
I built my own flash cure (because I can!)and because it works great and is easy to self repair if something goes wrong. I get 500 watt halo bulbs in groups so I save money on them and they work really well and last a long time. My flash cure cost me about $50 to make and it is every bit as good if not better than the BB1600(a nice flash too)that cost nearly $400 JUST for the element/head! the stand is over $200 more. No thanks. I have e friend who uses one of those tall dual quartz heaters(those things get HOT!)but because they are skinny, again you have to pass it slowly over the print. And you have to be electrically savvy enough to disable the gravity or 'tip' cut-off switch(which i am NOT recomending you do) Still anything is better than those heat guns. I hate those things. Because I have seen too many people duped into using them.

vee skribblz · March 6th, 2009

G'day, does anybody know that halogen lamps are realy bad for your eyes?. Please take care of them, have you notice that there is only one pair? and after that, be blind.
What kind of oven are you talking about?
Plastisol is flamable, so be careful
Tolaroo.

vee skribblz · March 6th, 2009

One more thing, how are we solve the problem of noise with the heat gun?.
Ocupational health and safty, I have to thing about when I am working at home too.
Tara

jeffie · March 6th, 2009

Hey, Ive said it here nurmious times...we print alot of white on dark (as much as 5 gal/month).
I'll list the most imporant points
1) warm ink (90ish)
2) 156 or finer screen (way helps with fibulation, fibers in shirt pulling thru screen and standing up
3) off contact (my current new fav.) alot of off contact will allow the shirt to come off the screen as the squegee passes...as opposed to "snaping off when platten is lowered (or screen raised) further reducing frib...
4)warm plattens (if ink is warm and plattens are cold plattens will sink heat from ink almost instantly negating the warm ink) around 100ish
5)strike offs when we start white ink we strike 8ish shirts to get the white moving, screens loaded, shirt looking good
6) lots of squegee pressure (self eveident)
7) flash till "dry" to the touch ,can't be smeered with finger.
That pretty much covers it....jeff

marcelolopez · March 6th, 2009

They are talking about a kitchen oven.
Plastisol is not flamable, I believe, but the fumes are harmful.

Stan Hoover · March 6th, 2009

If you print up to 5 Gallons a month, you must have a good idea of what ink(s) cause the least amount of fibers standing up. I have a real problem with whites on dark tees. We use Gildan blanks, and for white ink we use Triangle--1701, I think. I'm not at the shop right now.

I hate fuzzy images. We've even tried heat pressing them after curing in the conveyor oven, but that's WAY too much labor. My experience is in printing signs. I'm new to garments.

Other colors of ink (Triangle) don't seem to fuzz up much.

(Is it fibrulation? Fiberlation? Fibrelation? Fibulation? Good spelling helps with searches...)

RichardGreaves · March 6th, 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by vee skribblz


	Plastisol is flamable, so be careful.

No. Plastisol is NOT flammable.

Richard Greaves
Academy of Screenprinting Technology
screen printing since 1979
646-294-2799

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