2beaches

what is the difference between these 2 inks? Which is best suited for t-shirts.

Just started screen-printing and tried plastisol, but the white ink is soooo thick, hard to use. Using 110 mesh for simple 1 color designs.

Penny

 

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jimhack3

Quote: Originally Posted by 2beaches what is the difference between these 2 inks? Which is best suited for t-shirts. Just started screen-printing and tried plastisol, but the white ink is soooo thick, hard to use. Using 110 mesh for simple 1 color designs. Penny

Penny,

One can't really say which process is better. Both processes have their own characteristics. There are so many differences and applications concerning each type of ink, that It would boil own to what exactly are you trying to create.

You will definitely get a much softer hand when using waterbased inks, but you'll have to make sure that your ink doesn't dry in the screen If you need to stop printing for any reason. Waterbased used to only be good for white and light colored t-shirts, but with todays technology, I've seen dark shirts with designs that were waterbased ink, or pigment dyed discharge ink.

My suggestion as far as ink thickness is to of course stir your ink vigorously for a couple of minutes, and If It still seems to thick, then I wouyld suggest that you get your hands on some "CURABLE REDUCER". You don't need much!! try using, say 1/2 teaspoon per quart of plastisol ink, and then stir while noticing If your ink has become thinner. repeat until It is the thickness that you desire.

Let me know If you have any Q's in the future.

Best Wishes,
Jim

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coolkyle

You need to stir your plastisol. It develops a false thickness in the bucket and when you stir it it gets a bit easier to use. It's also easier to print plastisol when it's around body temperature. Don't heat it up though....ick. Unless you have the money and can tolerate the smell of discharge inks (wilflex is the best), plastisol generally can print dark garments the best. If you want to keep it simple, I recommend the Union Maxopaque stock inks (plastisol) and a jug of reducer. Straight from the bucket it works great on darks with a flash-cure, and on lights with 10 percent reducer mixed in for a softer hand and easier print.
As for your mesh, a 110 is as easy as it gets. If you're having trouble with your squeegee passes, try lowering your press or standing on something for leverage. Also make sure there is no shiny residue in the image area of your screen, known widely as scum. It dissolves well in spit.

 

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2beaches

Thanks for all your input...will definately be stirring a bit longer. I'll get some reducer as well.

penny

 

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Steelheader100

Not all white plastisol ink is the same. Some are much creamier than others. QCM 158 white is pretty good and I know there are others that are not too bad. Generally the more low bleed and ink is the thicker it is. Which one are you using?

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2beaches

I've been using International Coatings from silk screening supplies.

 

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spankthafunk

some white inks are really thick and some are nice and smooth. if you have a thick ink, one suggestion is to cut a hole in a piece of cardboard, place the cardboard over the container, and use a spade drill bit to slowly stir it up.

 

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