So I found an Epson 4800 on craigslist for a grand with 81 prints on it. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow, but it has no RIP software with it. Anyone have any suggestions on RIP software... I'd really like to avoid dropping $1000 right now for one. IF there is a ****ty FREE option anywhere, I'd like to know about it so I can get rolling.
I DO a decent amount of halftone work. Right now I am an employee of the printing shop I work for but I'm setting out to be a contractor for them so I'm getting my own hardware, but the transition has got me on a tight budget.
As it turns out it may come with the Colorbyte Imageprint RIP. He just has to pull the manuals and software out of storage. How is this for screen printing halftones? Do I need to drop the change for the FastRIP product or does that do it good?
Last edited by DustJunkie; February 14th, 2008 at 05:24 PM.
I've been through hell and back on here about ghostscript. Go to sourceforge and download it (the windows exe unless you want to compile it yourself) and GSView. After installing it ghostscript places a device independant postscript printer driver in your printer drop down list. It's here you can make the necessary changes to the rip. When you print to it, it creates a PS file that you can open and view in GSView then print to your 4800. It's that simple. There is various forms of documentation that referes to code and others that refer to the command line functions for tweaking it. Here is the link to the PDF manual you may find useful http://noodle.med.yale.edu/latex/gs/gs5man_e.pdf
Thanks guys. I think I've got a pretty comprehensive list on what's out there now. It's amazing how hard it is to google RIP software and get ANYTHING but Colorbyte. Maybe this will help.
-Ghostscript/Ghostview - Free
Complicated, and possibly produces films of sketchy quality
-FastRIP - $795 FastRIP Pro SPEED Edition -$1495
I can't find anyone who is not happy with this product. I've used it for the R1800/2200 and know people who use it on the 4800. It seems to be that standard. Could just be the marketing though. Demo Stuff: Has a free demo with a watermark. You will have to buy a USB dongle to get rid of the watermark.
-AccuRIP- $495
I like this product. I like the work flow and usability of it, the one time I've used it. Seems to be just as good as FastRIP and lighter on your wallet. Demo Stuff: Allows you to download the complete program and use it for free to make positives and print as many designs as you want, BUT it shuts down after 14 days.
-PowerRIP- $495
The sameish software as AccuRIP possibly rebranded. Demo Stuff: Lets you use the full program, but there is a watermark in the images until you pay for a Product Code and activate it over the Internet.
If anyone would like to list what the LIKE and DON'T LIKE about the stuff on this list or would like to add it. I can't find anything comprehensive on the subject anywhere. Also you could just direct me to any comprehensive resources that you have that I don't. hehe.
Thanks again guys.
Last edited by DustJunkie; February 15th, 2008 at 12:56 PM.
Reason: To update the list with what I've figured out for other people that may have the same question.
I think you might have the wrong price on the PowerRIP. I think it is $495.00 for doing halftones. I am familar with PowerRIP version. I believe it is pretty much the same or similar as AccuRIP. What I like about PowerRIP is that is comes with the density curves for several types of films already. This way you are not stuck to one type of film or you have to play with the settings to create the right settings for another type of film. Just my opinion.
Check my link on PowerRIP. I'm pretty sure it's $199 all the way up to the 4800 then for the 7800 and 9800 it's $495. I might be missing something. But if you say it's the same thing(ish) as AccuRIP (which I really like) that would defiantly be the one I'm after.
I didn't see a different version for halftones. Also I could of sworn that's what a RIP does. Make halftones, so a RIP that doesn't do that doesn't make sense to me, but I could be off base. If I am wrong about that could someone explain to me what a RIP does?
I am really interested in this process. Do you have any links to tutorials on this or suggestions on how I would go about figuring it out.
I am getting pretty familiar with creating graphics for simulated process. Working with channels and whatnot in photoshop, but I'm still running them though a rip for halftones. I don't think I've quite wrapped my head around how halftones are made and the role of a RIP. It's just like crazy magic when I throw a gradient in with the LPI, angle, and dot shape setting and I get a halftone film that looks "right".
Nice. Thanks sir. I thought that was too good to be true. I guess I'll just get by on trials for a month until I've got the printer paid for and jump on AccuRIP or PowerRIP. Unless of course the printer comes with ColorByte and that actually works. I can't find any references to anyone using that for screen printing.
Does anyone have a decent idea of the differences between AccuRIP and PowerRIP if any?
So I just thought I'd post this. I made the halftone on the right with Fred's method, the one on the left I printed straight out of my R1800 Triple Density. The one in the middle I printed with FastRIP (same density setting), then scanned. This IS an R1800 which has ink density issues, so I know the control that FastRIP offers is great for that. I know the 4800 will do better on the ink density, but I just thought I'd post my little test here for people to see.
The scan is a little blurry (I think I had the film upside down).
My only eperience where I was paying attention lies with the epson R1800 and 2200. Both of them had ink density settings for how much ink the printer layed down in a pass. The 1800 with it's small heads can not make a decent film positive print without running at TD (triple density). Here is a look at the settings.
Density settings being SD (standard), DD (double), TD (triple):
Sorry, it's 5AM on a Saturday and I'm working and drinking. I'm sorry about that screenshot. I forgot I was working in photoshop and was just getting you a screenshot of the TD thing. I'm pretty sure I followed you steps pretty well, but I'll reprise tomorrow. Thanx for your time.
Do not be seduced by the Epson ColorBurst RIP unless you want to match Pantone colors for posters. You need a RIP that increases ink deposit and shapes halftones.
AccuRIP is made by Freehand Graphics on Long Island NY; famous for making Spot Process separation software. They certainly have the best trial program; no watermark for 14 days and make as many positives as you want for 14 days. It can be downloaded and printing in less than 15 minutes with a broadband connection. Software For Screen Printers - Rip Software
RIP for an Epson 4800 
