I was wondering if an inkjet printer was the only kind of printer that you can use to print onto the clear transfer paper that I will be using to burn in the photo emulsion.
Anything that can stop the UV energy from your exposure source will work.
I politely challenge splathead to back up his claim that lasers are darker than inkjets, or that they are used more.
Hand cut masking film like Rubylith or Amberlith
Coins
Hand cut cardboard
Opaque paint on polyester film
Opaque markers
Office laser printers rarely yield more than 1.4 UV density
Inkjet printers without a RIP 1.6
Xante ScreenWriter 2.2 UV density
Epson ink jet with screen printing RIP 3.0 - 5.0 UV density
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How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Support Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member
I love the Xante ScreenWriter 4 because it has real Adobe Postscript on a chip on the motherboard, but a Epson R1800 with AccuRIP or PowerRIP prints with more UV density, BUT much slower - 11 x 17 positive in 7-8 minutes vs. 2.5 minutes. US$2,000 plus shipping vs. US$349 + US$500.
I will measure anybody's positive with my UV densitometer and eMail the results back to you.
Richard Greaves
110 3rd Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11217
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How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Support Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member
I bought the Epson R 1800 with the AccuRip program and have having a hard time getting dark imagies, also not sure if I set up the program right. I don't do alot of halftone shading mostly full black for spot colors. Also having a hard time with the targets, they print on the film much lighter and don't even burn on the screen.
So not sure if I should even use the rip program or not but even when I just go though the epson printer with out Accu rip I still can't get dark enough targets.
thanks
Jon
I bought the Epson R 1800 with the AccuRip program and have having a hard time getting dark imagies, also not sure if I set up the program right. I don't do alot of halftone shading mostly full black for spot colors. Also having a hard time with the targets, they print on the film much lighter and don't even burn on the screen.
So not sure if I should even use the rip program or not but even when I just go though the epson printer with out Accu rip I still can't get dark enough targets.
thanks
Jon
I've read on the forums about other people who use the AccuRIP who say they have great tech support. I'd give them a call as I'm sure it's just some setting you've got backwards or don't have the settings perfect.
So not sure if I should even use the rip program or not but even when I just go though the epson printer with out Accu rip I still can't get dark enough targets.
Often when new to Postscript and RIP software, designers choose a CMYK color instead of a Spot Color from the Pantone palette. These 'not spot colors' get halftoned by the RIP and look gray.
What color did you choose for your registration targets? For registration marks, have you tried "Registration Color" in Illustrator or CorelDRAW?
What program are you using?
AccuRIP has simple to use resolution and droplet size settings in the "What printer do you have?" section of Setup. File>Setup
Higher resolution means more droplets in each square inch. I have found that droplet size 2 works very well.
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How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Support Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member
Richard thanks
I am useing Photoshop, I have illistrator but have no idea how to use it yet, I hear it has alot of opitions that photoshop doesn't like making traps alot easier.
I got some advise from a post about uping my dpi on the accurip to 2880 x 1440. I don't do much shading mostly solid spot color channels but they print out all as dots using the accurip.
I think I might have to call support.
By the way a question if I can about ulano Emulsion I am using the DLX with Fluorescent tubes, but the set up I have as has a mixer of black light tube and normal fluorescent tubes. So my question is with that printer, on waterproof film, is that the best emulsion to use still and what would be the right lights for a fluorescent set up?
I am useing Photoshop, I have illistrator but have no idea how to use it yet, I hear it has alot of opitions that photoshop doesn't like making traps alot easier.
Remember that Photoshop is designed to reproduce millions of colors, and you probably only have a 6 head printing press.
What Pantone spot color did you use in Photoshop?
If you use a standard Photoshop CMYK color, Photoshop will output it as a combination of 4 halftone positives designed to all print together, not a solid spot color.
Quote:
Originally Posted by outhouse
I got some advise from a post about uping my dpi on the accurip to 2880 x 1440. I don't do much shading mostly solid spot color channels but they print out all as dots using the accurip.
A reason increase the resolution is that it deposits more ink per square inch, thus, more UV opacity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by outhouse
By the way a question if I can about ulano Emulsion I am using the DLX with Fluorescent tubes, but the set up I have as has a mixer of black light tube and normal fluorescent tubes. So my question is with that printer, on waterproof film, is that the best emulsion to use still and what would be the right lights for a fluorescent set up?
Normal fluorescent lamps (whatever that is, I assume you mean something like cool white), will not radiate as much UV-A energy as Blacklight (BL), or Blacklight blue lamps (BLB).
If I have a football team with 5 200 pound men and 6 11 year old boys - How much help will the boys be to win the big game?
40w 48" BLB lamps can cost $US35.00 each, but they will last 20,000 hours. 40w 48" BL lamps can cost US$22.00 each.
Most settle for 40w 48" Daylight lamps that cost about US$7.16 each.
More wattage means more power, but remember that 40 watts is the amount of electricity the lamps use, not how much UV-A energy they emit.
Ulano DLX is a dual cure emulsion designed to resist humid conditions. Dual cure emulsions resolve the best halftones, but expose slower than single sensitizer SBQ emulsions. You have to decide what is more important, halftone resolution, exposure speed or humidity resistance.
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How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Support Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member
thank you agian for the reply, I am doing RGB and the spot color tones I am usingI am putting at 55 Opacity and making channels., not sure if I should up the opacity or if that is only a concern with 4 color process.
Ink Jet printer ? 
Re: Ink Jet printer ? 
