I use the exact same as you including the Union Ink Curable Reducer. All plastisol inks can be reduced 5% straight from manufacturer (softer hand). I also use Union Ink white for 50/50's as well and don't always flash, depending on the look I am going for. The design determines the mesh count. When I do highly detailed designs I use a Diazo Dual Cure Emulsion for halftones and tight process printing with a 230 mesh. If I do a more simple spot color I may use a 110 and mix ink with softhand or Chino Vintage base (gives ink a less consistent more worm look which i like for distressed pieces) Chino Base is super thick and heavy but fun. So there is many variables and no set standard.. it's really up to what you're printing but I use what you listed for yourself on a regular. Cheers
Union Bright Cotton White printed through 156 - 195, flood, print, dry stroke, flash, flood and print again. 70 d squeegies, no additives. This ink is very easy to print right out of the bucket. I don't print 50/50s as a rule, but I've got some other white ink I can use on 'em on the rare occasion I have to.
1. I'm currently using unions Cotton White, but i have yet to do my planned side by side testing using various whites.
2. 110
3. triple durometer 75/90/75
4. see below
5. none.
Technique is all important. In my testing, i realized the worst thing we were doing wrong was squeegeeing twice before flashing. The second hit of ink would nearly double the volume of the ink transfered, where if the ink was flashed and then hit the second time, it would only increase the volume a small percent. Later testing seem to indicate that a second stroke could be performed wet, but with the intent of cutting the ink already placed on the shirt.
I like the triple durometer squeegee. The soft outer material allows for a good transfer of ink, while the stiff inner core allows for a good pressure.
One of my most common mistakes was to allow the plastisol ink to ride up the squeegee. When i would draw the squeegee, i would need to rotate the squeegee which would result in a greater angle and too much ink being pushed though the screen. To eliminate this as a problem, i've taken to using a flood coat, where i spread the ink off the squeegee and onto the screen. If i can spread the ink at least half way, i know i have enough ink to perform a good stroke. As i stroke across the screen, the squeegee will be collecting ink, rather than releasing ink. By the time the squeegee is half way, there is a large amount of ink being plowed ahead of it and i've not observed any difference from the portion of the screen which was flooded and the part flooded by the squeegee.
The only thing reducer seems to do is improve the handling characteristics of the ink, but at the cost of opacity. I've found it better to just use the flood coat to transfer the ink sticking to the squeegee onto the screen than it is to dilute the ink enough so that it will drip run off the squeegee using gravity. By not adding any additives, i'm not afraid to put ink back into the bucket, but i really hate the idea of returning modified ink back to the bucket.
Stirring the ink is also VERY important. I use an electric drill and a paint mixer purchased at home depot. While mixing, i periodically reverse the direction of the drill. To make things less messy, i've drilled holed in the lids of the bucket and place the mixer though the hole. For inks i use a lot, i have a dedicated mixer for that color. When starting up a job, i'll attach the drill onto the mixer without even opening the bucket and stir until the drill can turn the mixer without spinning the bucket. In the future i'd like to find/make a setup which doesn't require me to hold the bucket and the drill.
All of my screens are aluminum framed and the tension seems good, but based on some recent advice, i'm planning to test the Newman roller frame to get higher tension.
1. Wilflex - which one depends on the garment
2. What mesh count? 110 - 195 dempends on art
3. Squeegee Hardness? 70
4. Printing method? PFP or PF or if its a white highlite the just P
5. Any additives? sometimes softhand
QMX XOLB Glacier White for 100% cotton shirts. So creamy, so nice, not so marshmallow-fluffy
110 Mesh
70 duro squeegee
Print-Flash-Print or just Print depending on the line weight, and how bright I want it. Really thin lines usually just get the print. Big block designs'll get the PFP.
No additives no preservatives.
I need to try one of those triple duro blades. My wrists usually kill me after doing a bunch of white printing.. Especially when it's cold outside.
Union Bright Cotton White printed through 156 - 195, flood, print, dry stroke, flash, flood and print again. 70 d squeegies, no additives. This ink is very easy to print right out of the bucket. I don't print 50/50s as a rule, but I've got some other white ink I can use on 'em on the rare occasion I have to.
Where can i get the Union Bright Cotton ink online?
Texsource White Dream or Union Mixopake low bleed poly for 50/50 (rarely use this).
70 or 80 duro squeegee.
110-195 mesh
I stir the crap out of it, but, a few weeks ago I got lazy and it's been kept near the dryer which helps keep it creamy, I'll probably leave it there for that reason.
I PUSH whites! way easier on the arms & smoother prints. With tight screens, creamy ink and the right angles, I can get almost no hand even on a 110. I flood push, push again to clear the screen, flash then a 2nd hit, sometimes I flood before the 2nd hit, sometimes not, depends on mesh, design, etc.
1. I'm currently using unions Cotton White, but i have yet to do my planned side by side testing using various whites.
2. 110
3. triple durometer 75/90/75
4. see below
5. none.
Technique is all important. In my testing, i realized the worst thing we were doing wrong was squeegeeing twice before flashing. The second hit of ink would nearly double the volume of the ink transfered, where if the ink was flashed and then hit the second time, it would only increase the volume a small percent. Later testing seem to indicate that a second stroke could be performed wet, but with the intent of cutting the ink already placed on the shirt.
I like the triple durometer squeegee. The soft outer material allows for a good transfer of ink, while the stiff inner core allows for a good pressure.
One of my most common mistakes was to allow the plastisol ink to ride up the squeegee. When i would draw the squeegee, i would need to rotate the squeegee which would result in a greater angle and too much ink being pushed though the screen. To eliminate this as a problem, i've taken to using a flood coat, where i spread the ink off the squeegee and onto the screen. If i can spread the ink at least half way, i know i have enough ink to perform a good stroke. As i stroke across the screen, the squeegee will be collecting ink, rather than releasing ink. By the time the squeegee is half way, there is a large amount of ink being plowed ahead of it and i've not observed any difference from the portion of the screen which was flooded and the part flooded by the squeegee.
The only thing reducer seems to do is improve the handling characteristics of the ink, but at the cost of opacity. I've found it better to just use the flood coat to transfer the ink sticking to the squeegee onto the screen than it is to dilute the ink enough so that it will drip run off the squeegee using gravity. By not adding any additives, i'm not afraid to put ink back into the bucket, but i really hate the idea of returning modified ink back to the bucket.
Stirring the ink is also VERY important. I use an electric drill and a paint mixer purchased at home depot. While mixing, i periodically reverse the direction of the drill. To make things less messy, i've drilled holed in the lids of the bucket and place the mixer though the hole. For inks i use a lot, i have a dedicated mixer for that color. When starting up a job, i'll attach the drill onto the mixer without even opening the bucket and stir until the drill can turn the mixer without spinning the bucket. In the future i'd like to find/make a setup which doesn't require me to hold the bucket and the drill.
All of my screens are aluminum framed and the tension seems good, but based on some recent advice, i'm planning to test the Newman roller frame to get higher tension.
fred
Fred THANK YOU, as always very informative your posts
SURVEY: White Plastisol Ink application 
