I've only been at this for a few months now, but one thing that I've started to think about is getting a softer print. I just switched to the Union Ultrasoft ink and my prints are definately softer than when I tried using the International Coatings ink. Currently I only use 110 mesh, ink is straight out of the can, no reducing (I do have Curable Reducer, but I've only used it for my white ink).
So....my question is?
If I start using higher mesh screens, will my prints feel even softer? If so, what mesh count should I try first?
I'm pretty happy with the way the prints are turning out, but I guess I'm after that all elusive "soft" print.
It depends on the art work and color of ink. We usually only use a 110 for white ink and we have gotten to use a 156 more. We use 230 and up to 320 for high end detailed art work.
Sure, ink deposit is controlled by mesh diameter (measured in microns) and the thickness of your stencil.
I can get a feel that's hard to tell if it's plastisol or waterbase using a 305 mesh screen. I think the mesh thread diameter is 85 microns and the emulsion as i coat front/ 1 coat back and those coats anr done with the sharp edge of the coater and I pull them both really fast to limit the emulsion.
Try, you'll see what I mean. Don't forget you'll need to get your ink very fluid. Not good with white of course.
Sure, ink deposit is controlled by mesh diameter (measured in microns) and the thickness of your stencil.
I can get a feel that's hard to tell if it's plastisol or waterbase using a 305 mesh screen. I think the mesh thread diameter is 85 microns and the emulsion as i coat front/ 1 coat back and those coats anr done with the sharp edge of the coater and I pull them both really fast to limit the emulsion.
Try, you'll see what I mean. Don't forget you'll need to get your ink very fluid. Not good with white of course.
Thanks a bunch. I think I'm gonna try some 230 mesh screens to see how I like it. Many of my designs don't have very fine detail, so the 110 mesh has been fine for me. But I guess it's time to try something new.
The biggest problem with soft-hand printing on darks is the opacity issue. I can put my white underlay on a 195, but this makes it impossible to create a flat surface for the remaining inks. So i avoid the underlay in this situation, and go with higher mesh, opaque inks (rutland m2 is pretty good for this, hate the ultrasoft!), and use hard, sharp squeeges. For a "vintage" look you can hit each color once on darks, or if you have the time, you double-hit everything which yields brighter colors with less of the soft-hand effect.
You could use discharge if your shirts are dischargeable for dark shirts. You can also lay down plastisol with a fashoin soft base and a discharge underbase.
Softer feeling print with higher mesh screen? 
