Need to Register?

gibster · January 8th, 2008

i was wondering if anyone else was having trouble with the density on waterproof films,on the epson 1400 printer? i am using rip halftone but my films simply are not dark enough. any thoughts?

darwinchristian · January 8th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibster


	any thoughts?

how are you measuring the density?

what kind of RIP software are you running?

what kind of exposure unit are you using?

gibster · January 8th, 2008

ITS POWER RIP AND I WAS TOLD THAT THE RIP SOFTWARE TAKES OVER IN COREL AND PRINTS THE DESIGN ACCORDINGLY!THE EXPOSURE UNIT IS THE ONE THAT COMES WITH PRINTA 7700

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ALL YOUR HELP!

DAGuide · January 8th, 2008

Robb,

I am pretty familiar with the iProof RIPs - but have not used the specific one that Printa is selling. So, this might be able to help you out. Otherwise, I would call Printa for tech support.

You will set your halftones in Corel on the Separations tab of the Print menu. However, in the RIP settings (i.e. the Advanced menu)...you will need to have the Screening field set to Document Defined Halftone and Color Mode set to Grayscale (not full CMYK). You also might want to see if you can increase the Print Quality / Resolution that you are using as well.

Some of the RIPs (even outside the iProof RIPs) are preset to be used with specific types of ink and film. You might want to make sure that you are using the correct ink and film.

Hope this helps.

Mark

darwinchristian · January 8th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibster


	ITS POWER RIP AND I WAS TOLD THAT THE RIP SOFTWARE TAKES OVER IN COREL AND PRINTS THE DESIGN ACCORDINGLY!THE EXPOSURE UNIT IS THE ONE THAT COMES WITH PRINTA 7700 THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ALL YOUR HELP!

to examine the issue:

is the ink density unsatisfactory because it fails to expose correctly? if so, it may be that you are over or under exposed. there's a lot of info on exposure step tests on the forums. your exposure unit plays a role as well, as lower-end units have high probability for light scatter that can get behind the film and link the emulsion there.

i am not familiar with power rip and corel, so if it is a software issue i'd probably jump on the horn with someone at power rip and make sure your setup is good.

and perhaps someone else knows a bit more about it here that could suggest something...

gibster · January 8th, 2008

thanks i'll try anything right now!thaks for your help.

JeridHill · January 8th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by gibster


	thanks i'll try anything right now!thaks for your help.

What kind of waterproof film are you using? It's my understanding that the 1400 is dye based. Since that's the case, I don't see why there would be an issue using waterproof film, since that makes a great combination.

I've not tested the 1400 yet, but probably ought to!

RichardGreaves · January 9th, 2008

I have had situations where artists have chosen an RGB or CMYK color in CorelDRAW rather than a Pantone color which will create the best spot color.

Check your printer settings Properties
Print Quality: 1440 -4 times the dots as 720
Color Mode: Grayscale - not color

majesticmind · October 6th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardGreaves


	I have had situations where artists have chosen an RGB or CMYK color in CorelDRAW rather than a Pantone color which will create the best spot color. Check your printer settings Properties Print Quality: 1440 -4 times the dots as 720 Color Mode: Grayscale - not color

How do you find the printer settings for the 1440 or 720 for the 1400 printer. I dont see anywhere that I can change this.

skitzz · October 7th, 2008

not sure If this helps but I print films from my 1400 with stock ink on waterproof film and they come out great. so it probably ain't the printer. must be the rip sw. btw my printer settings are set to print to glossy photo paper.

treadhead · October 8th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by skitzz


	not sure If this helps but I print films from my 1400 with stock ink on waterproof film and they come out great. so it probably ain't the printer. must be the rip sw. btw my printer settings are set to print to glossy photo paper.

Ditto for me....

I use the printer with standard inks and waterproof film with no problems. I also use the glossy photo settings....& no RIP.

General Millz · October 8th, 2008

I notice the 1400 don't have any real quality setting, so I often change the paper type and that works great just trial and error, i'm just doing transfers but I get better result some time when i switch from plain paper to something else, you might also wanna run a nozzle check on the printer maintenance screen

jge · October 8th, 2008

I had the same problem with density.

The way I got rid of the problem is to tell the printer I am printing on ENHANCED MATTE (or is it Archival matte - can't remember - been a while since I set it), and print in PHOTO Quality - IN COLOUR.

The prints come out with a high enough density for me to be able to use the inkjet to make negatives for rubber stamps !

DAGuide · October 8th, 2008

I believe what Richard was talking about when changing the print settings from 720 to 1440 is in the RIP. I can tell you first hand that the 1400 printer running a version of iProof's RIP (MultiRIP) puts out one of the best films I have ever seen. The 1400 is a great printer for film positives. You probably don't have the settings correct in the RIP for Color Mode (use grayscale) and Screening (use Document Defined Halftones) - which Richard said above I believe.

The only reason to go with a RIP is when you want to print halftones so you can put down a dense dot of ink. I will not say it is impossible to do this without a RIP as some people feel that it can be done with other programs, but I have not personally seen the final output. But yes, if you are doing standard vector-based designs that don't need halftones... you don't need a RIP.

Need to Register?

Resources

T-Shirt Sites

epson 1400 printer