You need to study the classic method of printing on darks which is to "choke" the under base screen, and print the top colors without a choke. Imagine a bedspread that covers the sides of the bed - it has to be a little larger.
Imagine looking at a sandwich or poker chips from the top, all you see is the top color, but from the side (EVEN if your two prints are in PERFECT register like the poker chips), you will see the under base color. If I'd used a bigger piece of bread on the top, I wouldn't see meat or cheese.
Now imagine a chocolate covered cake. Across the top, and down the sides. Nobody knows what's underneath.
Are you hungry yet?
It is as simple as turning off the 'stroke' (in Illustrator) or outline (in CorelDRAW), but you will also eventually need to learn how to make a composite of all your colors - which would be the under base.
Scott Fresener has several articles:
U.S. Screen Print & Inkjet Technology Creating Underbases for Dark Shirts in Corel Draw Trapping in CorelDraw for Better Prints Spot Color Underbase in Corel Draw
Big Tip #1: The under-base needs to be opaque, BUT THE TOP colors need to be transparent, to let the white through.
Big Tip #2: The fastest way to better prints on dark is higher tension. Most of your other troubles will go away as you raise the tension, lower the off-contact and raise your mesh count. Remember, New Buffalo Shirt Factory only prints on darks and doesn't have any mesh less than 300 tpi. They are all high tension Newman Roller Frames.
Big Tip #3: The top colors need to be printed with high mesh counts, because you are no longer printing on absorbent cotton, but the un-absorbent vinyl you just flashed.