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T-Time · August 22nd, 2007

What's the best RIP for the epson 1280? I downloaded the PowerRip imageset demo, but had to check here first to see if it is what i need to print halftones.

Ken Styles · August 22nd, 2007

Hi,
Welcome to the forums.

Is the epson 1280 a die sublimation printer?

I'm not sure if that would even print on a film postive paper. have you tried?

T-Time · August 22nd, 2007

o yea, been using the 1280 for positives for 2 years now. Now it's time for some halftones but i can't get the screens to shoot out all the dots. So now I'm lookin for a rip to lay down more ink.

Ken Styles · August 22nd, 2007

Ok, I'm not expert on this and somebody else can probably give a better answer but you can try ghostview and ghost script.

Obtaining GSview 4.8

Obtaining AFPL Ghostscript 8.54

T-Time · August 22nd, 2007

Ive been tryin ghostscipt and gsview, but i cant seem to understand it. Price isn't an issue on a good rip though.

Transfer_printer · August 22nd, 2007

Fist you should prepare Postscript (PS) FILE (with right lpi), then open it in gsview and print it on your printer. (I set printer on normal GDI)
I have Epson 3000 (same heads) and it works greats.

Robert

T-Time · August 22nd, 2007

thanks for your help. One more question. How long are you exposing your halftone screen? Im using a 230 mesh with my dots printed out at 45 lpi (with photoshop). I know there are endless factors that go into the exposure time, but is there an average to it all? I shot my last screen at 4:30 and not all the dots shot out. (vacuum exposure unit)

Transfer_printer · August 22nd, 2007

we use 3000kW light for cca. 70 sec, coated 2/3 mesh 230 (thats 90t/cm) with white mesh

If thats can help you.

R

T-Time · August 22nd, 2007

wow 70 sec is nothin

does yellow mesh make a difference?

sbiman5@aol.com · August 22nd, 2007

If you aren't using a sigle point light source sauch as mentioned above you will have a heck of a time getting it to print all the dots.

we use a 6kw light and it exposes really fast about 90 seconds.

T-Time · August 22nd, 2007

ok, well that makes more sense then....i have 4 bulbs at 20w each

edit: 6 bulbs at 20w each

sbiman5@aol.com · August 22nd, 2007

Is it fluorescent? If so you will have a lot of light scattering. I have two Violux light sources and an old wall mounted vacuum frame and have less than $1500.00 in all three pieces of equipment. L@@k at USED equipment. I found these pieces in a large screenprinting plant that wanted to put in self contained exposure units. The graphics arts industry is going all digital so there is a lot of eqpt that doesn't have a home.

I would encourage you to get away from fluorescent as soon as possible

sbiman5@aol.com · August 22nd, 2007

Metal Halide

That's The Ticket. You Will Chunk Rocks At That Fluorescent Box, If That's What You Have.

T-Time · August 23rd, 2007

i think it might be.......i looked at the bulbs and it says blacklight on them....great, thats sounds fluorescent to me.

So i should expose it longer then.....like 6 minutes?

sbiman5@aol.com · August 23rd, 2007

DO you have an exposure calculator. This is a piece of clear film with a bunch of weird designs on it. Most of the emulsion companies make them and sell for around $20-30.00. It is well worth the time and expense to get one and determine what your exposure time is.

Are these tubes or bulbs you are using. If tubes-fluorescent. If bulbs -inacndescent.