Is it possible to print with plastisol on a stretchy spandex-like material, or will I have to get different ink. We're printing on 3x6 inch squares which will be turned into wrist rests for when you're using your mouse. Any info would be great
Most bicycle racing jerseys and pants are made of a very stretchy material called Spandex (also called Lycra). Also, Spandex is used for bathing suits, workout garments and more.
The problem with Spandex is that it stretches far beyond the elasticity of a normal plastisol. With that in mind, you should use a special Spandex plastisol, or add Spandex ink additives to your normal plastisol.
Also, many ink companies make special Athletic plastisol that is much more durable and will stretch farther than most standard plastisols (figure 2).
Since Spandex is 100% polyester, it can also be decorated using sublimation transfers. These transfers can be made using special ink cartridges and an inkjet printer. This will give a print that feels just like the garment (figure 3). Sublimation inks are very transparent so they don't work on dark Spandex. In order to "print" a light colored image on Spandex using sublimation, you have to actually print on white Spandex and print the surrounding "garment" color and entire image at the same time from the same transfer using sublimation ink.
hey Everyone - We Need Some Advice And Info On Transfers That Go On Wrestling Singlets They Are 86% Nylon And 14% Spandex, We Did Transfers On Back And Front, Backs Are Holding Up Well But While The Kids Are Wrestling They Are Coming Completely Off The Fronts , Either In Chunks Or Peeling Straight Off The Singlet, Any Help Would Be Great As We Had Someone Try To Do It Over And The Logo Turned Hard On The Fronts And I Assume Very Uncomfortable For A Wrestler To Wear
Travis,
I would think sublimation would be a better way to go - especially because your graphics will be dyed into the fabric, so the print becomes part of the fabric, thus undetectable by touch, adding more comfort to your wrist rests.
Sublimation also will give you flexibility of having full-color prints.
Sammi and Joe - if your nylon can withstand pressing temperature of 400 F and the singlets are not of a dark color you may also want to try dye-sublimation: there is absolutely no hand, colors are vibrant, the print will not peel off or crack ever. I have dye-sub printed quite a few nylon items with great results.
I have a similar problem - today customer called to say her adidas "Lehigh"singlets imprint were cracking.
We used excalibur stretch additive in plastisol - suits are 100% polyester.
Red suits with white print (front, back & leg!)
They just stretch soooo much - I don't know if any stretch ink will work.
Any suggestions if these can be fixed/overprinted? I was thinking maybe we could strech onto a pallet and reprint over the stretched image?
Any ideas?
Thanks!
I doubt they can be fixed. Not sure how you could reprint over the design and get perfect registration. Near impossible.
I have had much success with Union Inks Athletic Gloss Series. You can buy it by the quart and use it only when you need it. Never had one complaint of cracking and it stretches well.
hey Everyone - We Need Some Advice And Info On Transfers That Go On Wrestling Singlets They Are 86% Nylon And 14% Spandex, We Did Transfers On Back And Front, Backs Are Holding Up Well But While The Kids Are Wrestling They Are Coming Completely Off The Fronts , Either In Chunks Or Peeling Straight Off The Singlet, Any Help Would Be Great As We Had Someone Try To Do It Over And The Logo Turned Hard On The Fronts And I Assume Very Uncomfortable For A Wrestler To Wear
sammi And Joe team Sports And Trophies, Inc
I DO THOSEWRESLING SINGLETS ALOT.ITSCOMING OFF PROBABLY BECAUSE IT WASN'T CURED PROPERLY. ONE SIDE IS NOT PEELING BECAUSE IT WENT DOWN THE CONVEYOR TWICE(ONCEWITH THE SECOND PRINT) OR THE INK WAS MIXED IMPROPERLY.YOU NEED A NYLON ADDITIVE FOR BONDING TO NYLON OR A CATALYST WHICH CHEMICALLY BONDS IT TO THE FABRIC(THIS MAKES THE INK HARD AFTER IT CURES)
TRY HEAT SEALING THEM WITH A HEAT PRESS.BUMP UP TH TEMP AND PRESSURE AND TRY ONE.
Heat seal the plastisol print - do not put a transfer on top, is that what you mean?
I also spoke to an ink rep who suggessts printing 100% pure stretch additive on top of regular plastisol (flashed as a second color) when printing. Do you think that might work - or probably not because they are already cured?