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Question about allowing dark shirts to cool?



 
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Old July 26th, 2007 Jul 26, 2007 11:21:26 AM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default Question about allowing dark shirts to cool?

Hey everyone. I have heard of people printing light inks on dark shirts and stacking them on each other right out of the oven and running in to what they called ghosting. Basically where the image gasses on to the back of the shirt laying on top of it. Well, we've been extremely careful to try to avoid this. Every time we run white or yellow on dark shirts, we always spread them out on our table and let them cool before stacking them.

I just wondered what the general rules of thumb were to avoid this? Do you just allow the shirt to cool to room temperature? Is there a difference in blends vs. cotton shirts when it comes to this problem? I just didn't know if we were overkilling by being so cautious since it does slow us down a bit.

Thanks for the feedback!
 
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Old July 26th, 2007 Jul 26, 2007 11:28:13 AM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Question about allowing dark shirts to cool?

I have found that if the ink is fully cured you shouldn't have a problem...even right out of the dryer. My shirts fall out of the dryer into a box. I have never had a prolem with ghosting using this method.

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Old July 26th, 2007 Jul 26, 2007 11:42:46 AM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Question about allowing dark shirts to cool?

I too allow my shirts to fall off the conveyor into the box. Conveyors are made with a sufficient length of belt after the heat chamber to allow proper cool down.

If your using a flash dryer, I think 30 seconds of cool down would be plenty.
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Old July 26th, 2007 Jul 26, 2007 12:30:32 PM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Question about allowing dark shirts to cool?

Thanks guys. Yeah, I'm full curing with our conveyor dryer, but it only has about 20" of belt outside of the tunnel on the exit end.

I've also heard about people boxing up shirts like this and opening them up a day or 2 later and seeing this happen. Anyone seen anything like this?

Thanks again for all of the feedback. I really appreciate it.
 
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Old July 26th, 2007 Jul 26, 2007 12:53:42 PM -   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Question about allowing dark shirts to cool?

20" should be fine. That's what it's there for. You shouldn't have to lay out every shirt to cool.

I've never worried about ghosting and haven't had a problem.
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Old July 26th, 2007 Jul 26, 2007 1:01:33 PM -   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Question about allowing dark shirts to cool?

I have been printing for 11+ years and the majority 75+% of my printing in on dark shirts. I have never had this issue. We run through the dryer, stack and box immediately after printing.

I have heard of this and have seen this yet not in my shop. If your cured you should be fine.
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Old July 26th, 2007 Jul 26, 2007 9:53:16 PM -   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Question about allowing dark shirts to cool?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tryplecrown
Do you just allow the shirt to cool to room temperature?

Is there a difference in blends vs. cotton shirts when it comes to this problem?
Chlorine is common in blue shirt dyes and blue inks. 50/50 shirts are the bleeders because it is hard to balance the different dyes and different temperatures that 'fix' the dyes to the fabric. Polyester usually ends up with some dye on the surface that makes it hard to stop the dye from contaminating your ink.

This is almost impossible to advise you, and we can't learn anything so we can avoid the pitfall without knowing the ink and shirt specs. More important is - you know that combination doesn't work.

I wrote this in 1986 in my column in Screen Printing magazine, Eddgads. 20 years ago:

Marc S. Willson of (the former) Tucker's Tees Ltd. of Bermuda wrote.

Dear Richard: We've been dealing with a problem of certain manufactures inks which cause a "ghosting" effect, migrating the image from either the inside of the shirt to the back of the same shirt, or the the shirt stacked on top. Ghosting usually occurred after the shirts were stacked for a couple of weeks.



Mr. Willson doesn't tell me which ink brands he is using, so I will answer generally. Ink manufacturers use 'blocking agents' to stop dyes from sublimating and discoloring the ink film. Some low-bleed inks will "ghost" and some won't. This won't help much, but I can't tell you which ones do or don't. You must test, which by the completeness of your letter, I can tell you have.

Bleaches are used to decolorize or remove impurities from the ink in order to achieve whiteness. Remember, whiteness is not opacity. Opacity is a function of ink density, (film thickness and 'light stopping power').

Bleaching is a chemical reaction which uses "chlorines or peroxides" as agents. They do a pretty good job of stopping the problem of sublimation.

When you heat the ink to cure it, the bleaching agents give off gasses. When the gasses are loose and not diluted by the air they do their job and bleach whatever they can. When the polyester shirt fibers are hot, they swell. When they are swollen they soak up the bleach. If the bleach is strong you might get a reaction right away, but when it's weak it may take longer. The bleach will try to do it's job until it's exhausted.

You may remember several years ago there were many problems with light blue shirts that were very susceptible to bleach gasses. It was found that the blue dyes reacted easily with hydrogen chloride gas. Some manufacturers have taken some steps to prevent this with the use of acrylic monomers. They use the acrylic monomer to replace part of the plasticizer.

To cure, the acrylic monomer needs a peroxide as a catalyst. Isn't that handy? The acrylic monomer has two functions. As a plasticizer substitute it resists migration while it ties up the peroxide so it doesn't get out of control.

Shirt manufacturers had to change their dyestuffs and several ink companies had to pull inks off the market because of the liability. I haven't had a problem for quite a while. The only defense is to accept the fact that some inks do this and test to prevent surprises.

===

I visited Bermuda a few years later and was overwhelmed with the humidity. I'm sure the moisture in the shirts inhibited the cure of the ink especially at the critical contact point of the ink and shirt. Moisture evaporating from a shirt cools it, just like perspiration cools your skin.

Tucker's had a low energy IR panel oven and that combination doesn't pull moisture out of shirts very well so the cure penetrates completely .
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Last edited by RichardGreaves; July 26th, 2007 at 10:05 PM.
 
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