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eddanbel · July 24th, 2007

I AM AS GREEN AS A PEA!!!

....so bear with me..I purchased the Photo EZ kit, worked great!!! But the individual sheets are so expensive. I was wondering if anyone knew the name and specifications of the Photo EZ high definition film and where I could purchase a roll. I already looked around, but the specifications are too confusing...
HELP!!!!!

RichardGreaves · July 24th, 2007

Stencil thickness us usually determined by the mesh count.

What mesh are you using? For light colored shirts I suggest 140 - 200 mesh, thus 40 micron would be a good start.

Film thickness in microns linked with 'suggested' mesh count

15 419+
20 305 - 419
30 230 - 419
40 196 - 305
50 109 - 196
60 60 - 160
70 60 - 140

eddanbel · July 24th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardGreaves


	Stencil thickness us usually determined by the mesh count. What mesh are you using? For light colored shirts I suggest 140 - 200 mesh, thus 40 micron would be a good start. Film thickness in microns linked with 'suggested' mesh count 15 419+ 20 305 - 419 30 230 - 419 40 196 - 305 50 109 - 196 60 60 - 160 70 60 - 140

I bought this film Ulano-CDF-2/UV Capillary Film. I guess it means 20 microns? Well, lets just say that I tried peeling the back off to expose it like the PhotoEz film and it deteriorated in my hand because it was sooooooooooo thin......I couldn't even flatten it out because it kept on scrunching in. Then when I finally exposed a piece I placed it in water and it melted....I guess I'm looking for something that is very thick, yet gives me good detail...similar to the photoez paper.
Any suggestions? Links?

RichardGreaves · July 24th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddanbel


	I bought this film Ulano-CDF-2/UV Capillary Film. I guess it means 20 microns? Well, lets just say that I tried peeling the back off to expose it like the PhotoEz film and it deteriorated in my hand because it was sooooooooooo thin...

A clue for you is that you are not printing UV inks, so CDF-2/UV is probably not for you.

Wet Mesh

Capillary film is applied to the mesh before it is exposed. You wet the mesh and the water that is held in the openings wets the film, which makes it sticky and it stays on the mesh.

When it dries, you remove the polyester backing sheet seconds before taping a positive in the proper location so it lines up on the press and you expose it to UV-A light.

Remove the positive and store it, then wash the unexposed areas with city water pressure. The unexposed areas will dissolve and go down the drain.

eddanbel · July 24th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardGreaves


	A clue for you is that you are not printing UV inks, so CDF-2/UV is probably not for you. Wet Mesh Capillary film is applied to the mesh before it is exposed. You wet the mesh and the water that is held in the openings wets the film, which makes it sticky and it stays on the mesh. When it dries, you remove the polyester backing sheet seconds before taping a positive in the proper location so it lines up on the press and you expose it to UV-A light. Remove the positive and store it, then wash the unexposed areas with city water pressure. The unexposed areas will dissolve and go down the drain.

What should I be using?...This is a quote from their website.

"PhotoEZ is a unique material made from fine silkscreen mesh coated with light sensitive water-soluble polymer. It uses black and white images on plain white paper, sunlight and tap water to develop."

Can you recommend something?

RichardGreaves · July 24th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddanbel


	What should I be using?...This is a quote from their website. "PhotoEZ is a unique material made from fine silkscreen mesh coated with light sensitive water-soluble polymer. It uses black and white images on plain white paper, sunlight and tap water to develop."

As I re-read you original post, you actually asked for advice where you could buy a larger roll of PhotoEZ film. They have a unique hobby market for simple designs and no real competition.

Sefar does sell pre-coated mesh, but their minimums are steep and I don't think that is a solution for you.

As it says, "they supply coated mesh", and they don't use frames. PhotoEZ doesn't have a capillary film equivalent.

I assume what you mean is "which system should I use?".

?Screen printing materials in the usual commercial process (which has startup costs but more durability), or PhotoEZ - a low volume scheme that only uses water and sunshine, but it seems expensive?

With capillary film, you coat your own mesh and since it is attached to a frame, it lasts longer and can be re-used.

eddanbel · July 24th, 2007

I will try Sefar. Thank you so much!

RichardGreaves · July 24th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddanbel


	I will try Sefar. Thank you so much!

No. I did not make myself clear.

To be informative and head off speculators, I wrote that Sefar does pre-coat mesh but their minimums are steep, it is only on 355 and higher mesh counts and you won't like what it costs.

This is not the right idea for someone without equipment or experience to move from PhotoEZ to Sefar PCF pre-coated mesh.

SEFAR Internet

eddanbel · July 24th, 2007

then I am hopeless?? You have another alternative?

RichardGreaves · July 24th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddanbel


	then I am hopeless?? You have another alternative?

You may not have any hope of finding PhotoEZ film for less than EZ Screen Print sells it, but you are not hopeless.

The standard alternative is paying for printing, screen printing equipment, screen printing transfers and ironing them, direct to garment printing and digital transfers.

Only you can decide when things cost too much. How much is your time worth and how much can you make are the business questions I want you to ponder. If it's a hobby - for fun, you usually lose money in the experience and you don't care.

$8 per letter size sheet is cheap if you can print 100 items and sell them for a profit and not have to buy frames, mesh, exposure equipment and a vacuum frame. 8 cents per print.