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willyindep · July 1st, 2007

hey,
i have a home-made flourescent exposre unit that i built myself. i use the daylight deluxe tubes that Ulano emulsion guru richard greaves told me about. it works awesome for the stuff i do. i have had some success with halftones, but the really small ones dont wash out, no matter what i do (change exosure times, better positives, vacuum holddown) im assuming i need to get a point light source exposure unit, or build one. i see all kind of info about metal halide, and halogens. the ulano QX-1 emulsion i use has the exposre times for different light sources, and they mention mercury vapor. does anyone out there know anything about this kind of light? ive got an unused mercury vaper fixture still in the box here at my house that was never installed. anybody have any advice or tips on this kind of light before i try to build this thing?
thanks!

RichardGreaves · July 4th, 2007

Thanks for the kind words.

Fluorescent lamps are diffused light that will undercut the positive and naturally scatter in the stencil. Yes, a single point light source can eliminate that.

How practical is it that you make fine lines in your art. I've beefed up plenty of fine lines in customers art so it will print or be seen easier. consider your viewing distance, the duration of time the image will be seen and the value all the fine-ness will bring.

Metal halide is the preferred lamp for screen making because it can be tuned with different heavy metals to get just the right UV-A range to come out of the lamp.

You will have to do your homework on the actual mystery mercury vapor lamp you have at home. Find the mfg. web site and track down the INPUT and OUTPUT wattage and the UV output range. Remember that lamp wattage is about the wattage in, and not at all about what comes out. Most 40 watt BLACKLIGHT fluorescent lamps only put out 9 watts of UV energy.

UV power means penetration and speed.

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