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Originally Posted by jimmi |  | | | | | | | | | ....is that mean we still need to dry the t shirt even after the go through the flash unit? | |  | |  | |
Most textile ink
resins, (water based or plastisol) and the shirt - both have to be heated to 300°F to 320°F to be completely cured.
Plastisol is 100% solids and nothing evaporates so it cures faster than water-based inks. Plastisol is cured when all the liquid plasticizer is absorbed by the PVC resin, usually forming a film. Remember liquid, but NOT evaporation.
Like stencil exposure, textile ink can't be
"over cured". With plastisol ink, once all the plasticizer has been absorbed by the PVC resin, you can keep heating the ink & shirt, (wasting your time and heat energy), 3 minutes or 30 minutes, or 3 days at 320°F - the
cure will be the same.
80% of every gallon of WB ink has to be heated and evaporated into the environment. Lots of heat energy also leaves the shirt & ink with the liquid in the ink so it takes longer.
Heat also has to
move all the way through the ink film to where the ink touches the shirt for complete cure.
If you are flashing light colored inks on dark garments, water based inks take much longer to become gelled so they won't smear, but, there is very little film because 80% evaporated.
Heating the shirt above 320 degrees F. doesn't help much either, just as 3cm or 3 meters
out of bounds, are both equally out of bounds in tennis.
If you over
HEAT above 451 degrees F., the shirt starts on fire.
Think cure, not dry.
Excellent curing article on the Union Ink site:
General Information About Plastisol Inks