Is the R1800 the only printer you all recommend? I don't want to buy an older model, I'd rather buy new. Are there any others that will print the films or should I just look for the R1800? Thanks to all!
This is a great question. First of all, your budget is the primary factor. Whether you want to get something that will just start you off or are you looking for something down the road? Some things for you to think about.
You said you don't want old models, so I am going to stay away from the Epson 3000. It was the workhorse in the screen printing industry for a long time. They have become harder to find now as they have been discontinued for some time.
The C88 printer will only print around 8.24" wide. For most printers, this is not wide enough at all.
The 1280 printer is scheduled to be discountinued in the near future. This will print 13" wide and several printers have been using this for some time. This printer does require the use of a bulk system as well.
The R1800 printer is a good printer for the price, but requires the use of a bulk system as well. As long as you keep using it every day or two, the lines should not clog. This printer will print up to 13" wide and is primarily made for sheets - although you can print on roll with some manipulation.
The 4800 (or even the 4000) is the primary production model for what is consider a desktop printer. It uses cartrdiges (110 ML & 220 ML) instead of a bulk system. It also prints 17" wide and has a roll paper feature built in. This printer is fastly becoming the printer of choice if you can invest the money to purchase it. it is around $2000.00.
The 7800 (24" wide) and 9800 (44" wide) are usually overkill for most screen printers. I am not very knowledgeable on the non-Epson printers. Maybe someone else can tell you about them.
Most printers are now looking at the different 8-color printers (R1800, 4800, 7800, 9800) to make them into a hybrid printer now or later on down the road. An 8-color printer will allow you to run two different types of inks so that you can get more out of one printer and increase your ROI. To run a hybrid printer, you will need a RIP software. However, if you want to do halftones for your film positive, most people say you need a RIP anyways.
So, figure out what you can afford now and do some research on what printer will give you the most power today and in the future. Best wishes.
I just came across this thread, and have a question to throw in. I know its been a while since this was originally posted, but hopefully somebody will have an answer.
Quote:
The R1800 printer is a good printer for the price, but requires the use of a bulk system as well. As long as you keep using it every day or two, the lines should not clog. This printer will print up to 13" wide and is primarily made for sheets - although you can print on roll with some manipulation.
The 4800 (or even the 4000) is the primary production model for what is consider a desktop printer. It uses cartrdiges (110 ML & 220 ML) instead of a bulk system. It also prints 17" wide and has a roll paper feature built in. This printer is fastly becoming the printer of choice if you can invest the money to purchase it. it is around $2000.00
I am leaning towards the 1800, just for film output, but wont be printing that regularly(untill more jobs roll start rolling in). What problems am I going to run into as far as the lines clogging?
Any time you run a printer with a bulk feed system, you open the door for the lines to clog up or potential lose suction and keep the lines filled. There is a program called Printer Jockey that allows you to do a single channel flush if a line clogs up on you. This can save you money on the other 7 channels of ink you would had wasted if you did head cleanings. You can look at using cartridges instead of a bulk feed system. However, it is going to cost you more per a print. Some people recommend getting the refillable cartridges, but I have never done this. So, I will let these people reply on this type of setup. Hope this helps. Best wishes.
1 more question what is Rip i no it's for haftone dots but is that if your doing process screen printing.
RIP stands for Raster Image Processor. When you print halftone dots (normally) the computer sees it in a sort of grayscale mode, so therefore it does not print a dense black dot on the film. The short version is that when printing process colors or halftones, the RIP tells the printer that even though it is a tiny tiny dot, and may have a gradient or transparency on the computer, to print it at full density so that your positive is as dense as can be when you go to expose it.
If you do plan on going with the R1800 make sure you get the RIP with it. Even if you seldom do halftones or process printing, the denser the image, the better off you are.
Personally I still have my Epson 3000 (dye inks, the R1800 is pigment I beleive) and it is, as was said above a workhorse. I don't use a RIP and I get good enough halftones, but since I don't do that many anymore (use a Tjet) it's not that big an issue.
I would look around online and see if any of the supplies will send you sample prints on inkjet film.
Also something to be aware of is the ink type (pigment vs. dye) This will ultimately determine the type of inkjet film you can use (waterproof vs. non-waterproof).
RIP stands for Raster Image Processor. When you print halftone dots (normally) the computer sees it in a sort of grayscale mode, so therefore it does not print a dense black dot on the film. The short version is that when printing process colors or halftones, the RIP tells the printer that even though it is a tiny tiny dot, and may have a gradient or transparency on the computer, to print it at full density so that your positive is as dense as can be when you go to expose it.
If you do plan on going with the R1800 make sure you get the RIP with it. Even if you seldom do halftones or process printing, the denser the image, the better off you are.
Personally I still have my Epson 3000 (dye inks, the R1800 is pigment I beleive) and it is, as was said above a workhorse. I don't use a RIP and I get good enough halftones, but since I don't do that many anymore (use a Tjet) it's not that big an issue.
I would look around online and see if any of the supplies will send you sample prints on inkjet film.
Also something to be aware of is the ink type (pigment vs. dye) This will ultimately determine the type of inkjet film you can use (waterproof vs. non-waterproof).
Good Luck!
-Andrew
thanks for that description. i think since i plan on doing heat transfers also that the R1800 might be for me since it uses pigment ink. I could get two uses out of it. i dont think i will be doing process anytime soon so i probably will not buy the Rip program plus i hear there expensive.
i probably will not buy the Rip program plus i hear there expensive.
Yeah, US Screen has a RIP for the R1800 and I think it's around 600, which is more than the actual printer (if you look around you can find them under 400) Other companys probably offer RIP programs for the R1800 because it seems to me that it's becoming the new "entry-level" standard in film output.
Using it for transfers is a good idea, especially because you have 8 colors with the R1800 (really 7, with a gloss optimizer) so you have a really nice color gamut for transfers. Make sure you do the math on your ink costs so that you don't undercharge people.
Which epson printer should I buy? 
