Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110?
Well, I'm getting closer on my white prints. I ran a job last week using Union LoBleed Diamond White through a 110 and a 70 dur squeegee. I ended up having to add just a touch of reducer to get the ink to clear the screen. I went back and ran another job with the same setup through a 160 and it seemed to work pretty well, but when I tried it again yesterday it gave me trouble. I couldn't get enough ink deposited and the opacity was horrible. So I'm thinking "yeah, I need to just stick with the 110 for white".
I know those lower mesh counts (like 60 - 80) are used for specialty inks, but I was wondering if anyone ever runs those lower mesh counts for their whites to get a thicker smoother deposit? Or is 110 as low as you want to go for white?
I'd love to be able to use the ink right out of the container, but I can't seem to get it to totally pass unless I add just a bit of reducer. I have tried a flood stroke, and a push stroke, but it seems that most of the time I get a fuzzy edge on the image closest to me. So I've started doing a flood and then a straight up and down pull stroke pretty quick to clear the screen.
Re: Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110?
You can use lower mesh yet your limited to the amount of detail you can hold. Also jaggies start to come into play with the lower mesh (combined with you coating techniques)
We print white ink on 86 - 230 mesh. Just all depends on the job at had as to the best mesh count
Re: Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110?
Hi Mark,
Welcome to the wonderful world of white ink on dark shirts. According to most recommendation, you are on the money with the 110 mesh and 70 durometer blade. All plastisol inks are thixotropic, a fancy word that means the ink will stiffen up when not in use. Its very important to mix your ink before printing and if you are using a reducer, it should be a balanced reducer. Most ink manufactures make one and they have different names for it. (I use Union Ink and theirs is called Plus 9000.) I like to mix my ink so it has a soft creamy appearance and flows easily.
I prefer a 70/90/70 triple durometer blade these reduced flex and they yields better print definition and good control of the ink deposit. I like to use about a 60 degree angle and pull rather than push. I usually print flash print (PFP) if there are any problems. This allows for good coverage of the ink over the substrate.
Now that I said all that, printing white ink over dark shirts can be difficult and does take some practice. I have lots of black work shirts that didn't make it to the customer.
I don't know if this will be of any help but Good luck with your printing.
Re: Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110?
I'm currently using 156 mesh for everything. I have no trouble getting the white to go through the screen, but I'm using Triangle Pheonix white. Of course any time I do white on dark, I do print/flash/print. Are you trying to get a good white with a single print?
When I do P/F/P with white using a 110 screen, it puts too much ink on the shirt.
Re: Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110?
Thanks for the input guys. I've been on a quest to dial in white prints on dark shirts. I use Union's lo bleed diamond white and sometimes ad just a bit of their curable reducer which I am pretty sure is the Plus-9000 Bill mentioned. But no, I always print/flash/print. I just find that I often end up having to flood and do an upright stroke twice to get good coverage on the second print.
I messaged another member on the board a while back about their process on white prints. They recommended Rutland Snap White. I ordered a gallon and I think it may be old stuff. I stirred it forever and it's so super thick and sticky like taffy, considerably thicker than the union diamond white straight out of the bucket. I have a really tough time trying to get it to clear the screen even on a 110, so I'm not too sure about it, or at least the bucket I ended up with.
I just feel like I keep seeing prints with these thick smooth white prints, and it's driving me crazy not being able to do it. They may be sort of thick and rubbery, but they're smooth and opaque which is my goal so far. I will say that I've dialed in the cure temp to just go to about 305 to 310 and that's helped considerable. I was totally baking my white ink early on. I just still feel like mine need to be smoother. Someday...
Re: Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110?
I would say if your ink won't go through a 110 mesh screen, then it's too thick. I would keep reducing it until it will go through uniformly. And then do some wash testing to make sure it gets cured properly.
Re: Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110?
I assumed he was just trying to get a good white print on a dark shirt. I understand about the opacity, but if it won't go through the screen, it doesn't do much good either . Maybe the screens aren't getting reclaimed completely or the film positive is letting UV through and emulsion is stopping the ink from going through. The bottom line is that any non-specialty ink should go through a 110 mesh with a proper stroke. There's got to be something wrong if it's not going through.
Re: Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110?
I hear ya. I just cringe when people thin back their whites. I feel the inks viscosity is there for a reason. If you cannot get it to pass through the mesh than you may need to go to a lower mesh, not stirring well enough before loading into the screen or off contact is off.
Rutland whites are good yet too darn thick for us when we were manual printing. Trying the Wilflex Buffalo for our all purpose white made a huge difference. The Tiger white is excellent for highlight whites and white printers on white shirts.
Does anyone run white through mesh lower than 110? 
. Maybe the screens aren't getting reclaimed completely or the film positive is letting UV through and emulsion is stopping the ink from going through. The bottom line is that any non-specialty ink should go through a 110 mesh with a proper stroke. There's got to be something wrong if it's not going through.
