Is there a rule of thumb for the cure time and or washfast time for water based inks. I'm experimenting with Nazdar 9500 series inks with the AQ58 additive. I am tunnel drying @ 275 degrees. Prints are dry when they exit dryer. I just need a rough idea of when they would be fully cured. Any help would be appreciated.
Plastisol is so much easier, but for some jobs (read Baby Bibs) water based is just a better option.
Thanks,
Ken
__________________ 350tees.com Talk Is Cheap, Especially On Our Shirts
You should try using a InfraRed thermometer gun to monitor the temperature of the print as it leaves the tunnel. Waterbased only needs to get to 320 for a few seconds and it's good.
I've been using both water based with an air-dry catalyst and without, and to be honest i've found that either way doesn't reach 'full' wash-fast until between 4-7 days after printing. You can wear them within that time - just don't sweat in 'em!
The manafcturer of my ink (Neptune?- I can't remember) even states not to bag clothing up until at least 4 days after.
Not sure about tunnel drying, I thought the heat was to kick-start the curing process rather than complete it. If I had them under the heat for too long i'd worry about burning the shirt or affecting the ink somehow. I AM new to all this, however!
As said before, a test wash should give you an idea.
Is there a rule of thumb for the cure time and or washfast time for water based inks.
I'm experimenting with Nazdar 9500 series inks with the AQ58 additive. I am tunnel drying @ 275 degrees.
Prints are dry when they exit dryer. I just need a rough idea of when they would be fully cured. Any help would be appreciated.
9500 Series must be heat set for 3 minutes at 300° F. Heat cure for 2.5 minutes at 320° F with good air flow in the oven. If necessary, the addition of AQ58 Aquacat may be used to achieve necessary fastness levels, but hand will suffer.
275 degrees for 90 seconds is below specifications.
__________________
How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Support Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member
You should try using a InfraRed thermometer gun to monitor the temperature of the print as it leaves the tunnel. Waterbased only needs to get to 320 for a few seconds and it's good.
This needs to be in context. I will take some time for the entire garment to get to 320F degrees because of all the time it takes to remove all the water, so the ink can cure at 320.
The garment will hover around 180, until all the water is gone. If the garment does get to 320, all the water is gone.
__________________
How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Support Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member
I just started printing and I've been using versatex water based ink. I was under the impression you can cure it with an iron on the highest setting placed on the suffice for about 30 seconds, is that because its a faster curing ink then the nazdar brand? What is a good looking water based that cures fast?
i've heard you can re-run it through the dryer so the shirt won't get burned, but after a few passes you get the necessary 3 min. i just wonder if it has to be a consistent 300 degrees through the the 3 min. it won't cool much, but some.
Well I found a water based ink system from UnionInk.com that comes with an air dry catalyst. I will try out these "airotex" inks and let you guys know the results.
after doing the first wash test and your design survives, does it mean it wont go off on the next wash and after several more washes?
No, not necessarily. I've seen wash tests where uncured ink was pretty much ruined after one wash. On the other hand I've done tests myself where it took ten washes to get significant fade, and even after 25 the print was fine (just faded). I'd give it at least a few harsh washes before I drew any conclusions.
Cure time for water based ink 
Re: Cure time for water based ink 
