Hello,
I want to build an exposure unit like the one in the following video: YouTube - Screen Printing's Best Exposure Unit
But I already own a 1000W HPS, can I get the same results not using a metal halide?
I think I will be using Ulano QX-1 emulsion on a 14XX mesh, this is not concrete yet.
Also was thinking of using ATEX-1020 Super Opaque White, with the air drying catalyst.
This forum rox, thanks in advance.
High pressure sodium is the incorrect spectrum for about any emulsion or capillary film. The metal halide has to be in the 350 - 420 nanometers to expose the screen properly. I don't think HP- Na will be in that range. Contact SGIA for more info.
I have just seen a 2000 watt Violux exposure unit on e-Bay for less than $200.00 plus the freight. If you scrounge you could find a vacuum frame for less than $500.00. This would be better than trying to re-invent the wheel. Theimer already did it YEARS ago. You don't have to have a $20,000 unit to burn screens.
I have a 6KW Violux with a vacuum frame (Douthitt) that I have less than $1200 tied up in AND I can burn screens up to about 50" X 70". It takes up less space than my old conventional Fluorescent table. I do all kinds of neat and nifty stuff including spot process, half tones AND high density with it just like the BIG BOYS. I can send pics.
Last edited by sbiman5@aol.com; May 22nd, 2007 at 02:39 PM.
What's a 14XX mesh, all I see is something like 110-80, translated it means 110 threads per inch with an 80 micron thread diameter. QX-1 is a good emulsion, I use it regularly. Murakami has one that is also EXCELLENT!!!
How about FREE for a humongous fluorecent table. Come get it out of my shop and it is YOURS. On top of that it WORKS!!!! Where are you located??? It has brand new bulbs in it and I have some NIB bulbs you can have at my cost just to help you get started and get this stuff out of my way. Call me at 919-496-2888.
Last edited by sbiman5@aol.com; May 22nd, 2007 at 02:55 PM.
How about FREE for a humongous fluorecent table. Come get it out of my shop and it is YOURS. On top of that it WORKS!!!! Where are you located??? It has brand new bulbs in it and I have some NIB bulbs you can have at my cost just to help you get started and get this stuff out of my way. Call me at 919-496-2888.
sbiman5, very generous of you, very. But 919 looks like North Carolina, and i'm in Wisconsin. In just gas i'd have to drop about $200. I do appreciate the offer, but i'm checking out some other options right now. But thanks again, this forum is a tight community, I can't wait to get more involved.
But I already own a 1000W HPS, can I get the same results not using a metal halide?
I think I will be using Ulano QX-1 emulsion on a 14XX mesh, this is not concrete yet.
Also was thinking of using ATEX-1020 Super Opaque White, with the air drying catalyst.
Roger Jennings does a nice job of describing different exposure units on his YouTube video.
High Pressure Sodium lamps will not work because they emit light in the 590 nano meter range, not 340 to 400 nm range needed to expose screen making stencils.
You can't get the same results not using a metal halide lamp because 'most' metal halide lamps are made specifically for screen making exposure. I cannot use an old tractor engine for a race car because race car engines are usually custom made.
I want you to burn the OLD Multifiliment 14xx mesh.
Doesn't stretch well, ink and stencil are hard to clean out. Buy monofiliment.
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How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Support Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member
Can I expose with High Pressure Sodium? 
Re: Can I expose with High Pressure Sodium? 
