I have tried using the white pastisol speedball ink, and it cures hard and cracks. Ive tried doing 2 layers, but its still hard and doesnt look professional at all. I had some shirts made before from a local shop and they were very professional and had a rubbery slight raise (not much) in the ink. Please help, im having a bad experience and getting very frustrated. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. All i know are the basics, like how to make the screen, im lost from there. And i do own a flash dryer.
I have tried using the white pastisol speedball ink, and it cures hard and cracks. Ive tried doing 2 layers, but its still hard and doesnt look professional at all. I had some shirts made before from a local shop and they were very professional and had a rubbery slight raise (not much) in the ink. Please help, im having a bad experience and getting very frustrated. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. All i know are the basics, like how to make the screen, im lost from there. And i do own a flash dryer.
Thanks
Vince
I too would like to bring this one up. Anyone had any experence with the Speedball Waster Based Inks?
Ron
from what I have read on the forum most of the silk screeners don't use speedball. Starting out I know that speedball is easy to access in the craft stores. I use it for an underbase on darks to bring the colors up on a dark.They(speedball) also sell something that can thin the paint .Try the link to to left silkscreeningsupplies.com ,they are very helpful with beginners and watch their videos.I hope this helps
I don't seem to have this problem with white speedball. Are your prints a really large area of white? I could see that being a problem, as the speedball inks seem to want to crack when there's a whole lot of it in one area. I'm not sure I've seen speedball plastisol, but the waterbased fabric ink works pretty well.
I guess it could be a problem with curing the ink, someone in another thread mentioned that if you're inks are cured the right way they're going to be more likely to crack, I kind of tested that out by curing my ink for a while longer on a shirt and pulled it in every which way and it cracked a lot less than a shirt I had previously done with less cure time.
This, like I said, is for Speedball waterbased fabric ink, but I think the same idea applies to plastisol inks - they all need to be cured pretty darn near perfect to get a great result.
White speedball ink problem 
