ieaturheart

Does anyone have any suggestions on how some of these (in my opinion) works of art were created.

For instance are the stripes on the ribcage picture screened on and if so was that the first layer or how does that work a little new to screen printing about to purchase one well edit looking for one, lol.

Another question any idea how that patch was made. Could I make something like that then spray it to make it glossy? Or prob was made by a label company?

What about the continuous pattern and silky affect of the owl shirt. I know I have been told that most likely it was printed first in continuous prints or using a belt printer but just curiosity killed the cat on some of these shirts.

super thanks to whoever reads this

-austin

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Solmu

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart For instance are the stripes on the ribcage picture screened on and if so was that the first layer or how does that work

The stripes were done after the garment was constructed, but before the other printing. It would have been screenprinted. Most likely it was done in a belt printer, but given how simple it is it could have been done on a table. It would have been done separately to the final print.

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart Another question any idea how that patch was made.

I can barely even tell it is a patch from that photo. Might be vinyl, might be a litho transfer, might be fabric. I have no idea.

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart What about the continuous pattern and silky affect of the owl shirt.

Custom printed fabric that is then sewn into shirts. The fabric roll was printed before the shirt was made (this one was clearly not done with a belt printer).

The silky effect (you mean the mottled colours?) is most likely a wash or a dye effect. It's hard to tell, but it was probably done to the fabric before it was printed.

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ieaturheart

thanks for all the great advice. i see what you are saying about the third owl one.

yeah its like he dyed it with tea and dye coloring or something, idk. yeah that patch looks as if he cut a square out of the shirt then sewed it on from the inside of the shirt. i just didnt know how he would have made that.

so for instance if i wanted stripes like that on a shirt. just take grey and a screen and screen on 6 grey stripes or whatever first? then let it dry, then screened on white let it dry then the pink and eureka it was done? am i getting this concept right?


-austin

 

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Solmu

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart so for instance if i wanted stripes like that on a shirt. just take grey and a screen and screen on 6 grey stripes or whatever first? then let it dry, then screened on white let it dry then the pink and eureka it was done? am i getting this concept right?

Basically, yes. If you have the equipment you'd use a flash dryer to speed up the drying step, but same principle.

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ieaturheart

Quote: Originally Posted by Solmu Basically, yes. If you have the equipment you'd use a flash dryer to speed up the drying step, but same principle.

ok thanks i have been told by the local guy when he let me tag along in his shop for a few hours, to 'always' use a white underlay to help the colors pop. is this true or did i misunderstand him. im still new to all this and dont have any equipment (yet) in front of me. i want to have everything i need (the basics) by the end of may so im looking into it.

just off the subject so far on my list i have written: shirts, ink, dye, bulbs, screens, silk screener, domain, website, emulsion, transfer paper, graphics pen (maybe), squeeges. in case those reading dont know im starting a solo company in my garage making highly unique one of a kind hand-made, hand-dyed, hand-signed/numbered, hand-everything shirts. so with that in mind im not planning on putting out 100's and 100's of shirts at a time, so im not planning on buying anything more then a 6 color press and not going to buy a conveyor dryer and all that shop fancy stuff. the reason i listed that was incase you want to add things i will need. i know starting a company isnt cheap im not trying to go cheap just not trying to go broke, in college also lol.

thanks to whoever reads this.


-austin

 

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Solmu

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart ok thanks i have been told by the local guy when he let me tag along in his shop for a few hours, to 'always' use a white underlay to help the colors pop. is this true or did i misunderstand him.

It's possible you misunderstood the context, it's possible he was in error. You would use a white underbase if you are printing on darks and want the colours to pop. If you're printing on lights you don't need it, and if you don't want the colours to pop (you want a subdued, subtle look) then you wouldn't use it either.

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart the reason i listed that was incase you want to add things i will need.

If you're using plastisol, or printing on dark colours (black especially), you'll need a flash dryer.

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ieaturheart

Quote: Originally Posted by Solmu If you're using plastisol, or printing on dark colours (black especially), you'll need a flash dryer.

plastisol is the ink used during silk screening, correct?


-austin

 

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Solmu

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart plastisol is the ink used during silk screening, correct?

It's one of the two main types, the other being waterbased.

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ieaturheart

Quote: Originally Posted by Solmu It's one of the two main types, the other being waterbased.

any suggestions on which one is usually used?

and i was looking at dharma trading co and their stuff (because i plan on buying dye from them), but they really only have versatex ink. any suggestions on ink usually used for silk screening or that would be ideal for my handmade endeavors? and places i could look into that sell inks? if versatex will work fine then more power because i could order from on company but eh. thanks


-austin

 

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Solmu

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart any suggestions on which one is usually used?

Plastisol is usually used, especially for commercial printing. Waterbased is becoming more and more common though. I might even go so far as to say it's what's usually used by indie t-shirt designers (a specific niche where it's popular, though not the only one).

You can do things to either ink to get results like the other, but essentially plastisol is more opaque and waterbased gives you a softer feel on the garment.

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart they really only have versatex ink.

I'm pretty sure versatex is waterbased.

Quote: Originally Posted by ieaturheart any suggestions on ink usually used for silk screening or that would be ideal for my handmade endeavors?

Waterbased has one big disadvantage, and one big advantage. It's disadvantage is that it air dries. It's advantage is that it air dries.

So (unlike plastisol) waterbased ink can dry in your screen if you're not printing fast enough, and if you really let it dry in there you won't be able to get it out without reclaiming the screen (and starting again).

On the plus side, it air dries on the garment. You still need to cure (heat set) it so it's washfast, but it does make it a bit easier to deal with in a home situation.

With waterbased inks you won't be working with as many solvent cleaners (though it won't eliminate them all).

Waterbased is more common for home printers since in a push you can cure it with a home iron. Either ink will give you a professional and long lasting result.

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ieaturheart

Quote: Originally Posted by Solmu Plastisol is usually used, especially for commercial printing. Waterbased is becoming more and more common though. I might even go so far as to say it's what's usually used by indie t-shirt designers (a specific niche where it's popular, though not the only one).

So last night i searched the forums and read a huge article about waterbased versus plastisol. Im sorry to have so many questions but i still have a few curiosities.

Assuming i will use plastisol:
by flash drying the design does that cure it for fastdry or do you need a piece of equipment?
i read about these additives (in the forums and then i googled it) that are curable reducers and the company also had a soft hand additive (company that came up on google was atlas textiles), how do they work?
if i went with plastisol for the indie/emo/scene look and used curable reducers/soft hand additives would (in your opinion) i achieve a decent smooth looking shirt? and wouldnt i also have the same drying in the screen problem and possibilty, similar to waterbased, once additives are in the ink? (bc i assume they thin out the plastisol ink?)

Assuming i chose waterbased:
do i need a different screening press to use waterbased?
i am going for the indie look but also all my shirts start off as a plain white t, and i produce art and my medium is a t-shirt. should i think about waterbased because im doing this in my garage?
since im making each shirt by hand i will not be producing 100 shirts at a time but rather 20 or so. im going for quality not quantity. so since waterbased dries in the screen if your not fast enough should i stick with plastisol?
waterbased is cheaper from what i read, right?
do i need new eqiupment to use waterbased?
is it harder to use then plastisol, besides needing to be somewhat fast and not slow?

another question please, lol. how do you line all this up? lets say you have 4 colors how do you make sure all images are emulsioned (not sure what it is called) onto all the screens at the same place? how do i make sure the screens when laid down onto the shirt will produce an image in the area of the shirt i want it. from what i learned from watching the guy go to town on making shirts was he puts a mark on his board that he slides his shirts on to. then he aligns the collar to the same spot everytime. should i follow the same?



sorry for so many questions. thanks so much lewis and whoever else who reads this.


-austin

 

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Solmu