I don't know what "simple seps to sep" is but I separate each spot color manually. Actually, I copy and past the entire image and the registration marks to another page and remove the unwanted colors (leaving only the color for that channel or layer). Then, I change the color to black and rename the page to the color that it represents.
I don't know what "simple seps to sep" is but I separate each spot color manually. Actually, I copy and past the entire image and the registration marks to another page and remove the unwanted colors (leaving only the color for that channel or layer). Then, I change the color to black and rename the page to the color that it represents.
sir simple seps is a corel draw add on or a macro that can separate spot colors in your design.
if you set everything up as pantone colors, it will separate in the corel print dialogue w/o using simple seps. That will separate butt-registered. If you want more control over how the colors overlap, you will have to do it manually like Angel said. For example if you want a red to yellow fade, you make a copy of each color, make the yellow fade from black (which will be the 100% yellow) to white, vice versa for the other colors. Sometimes, I'll drag the gradient a little more either way for each color, so the make a smoother blend on press.
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An idle press does not make an impression.
That is one advantage of using PMS unfortunately very few people here are keen on it.
not many are keen on using a PMS fan and matching inks to that, but as far as using a PMS pallete in corel and getting close to the ink colors you have on hand, it works fine.
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An idle press does not make an impression.
not many are keen on using a PMS fan and matching inks to that, but as far as using a PMS pallete in corel and getting close to the ink colors you have on hand, it works fine.
A PMS fanbook is expensive here and is used mostly by garment exporters. I just use the PMS palette in corel or PS and a printed PMS color swatch. I am only a small printer and frankly, has only use PMS inks on one print job. In others, I use PMS colors only partially. Accurate colors is not my problem now but repeatability of color is which is why it seems desirable to completely switch to a PMS ink system.
And yes, by keen I meant that most people I met seems to be contented with memory-based ink mixing using pigments.
( bevel ) how to spot color separate 
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