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jfrountree · January 20th, 2007

Okay so I got past the flood stroke issue of the print not coming through but now when I print red on black it's just not very bright as in the it's not showing the true ink's color it's more like a dark dark dark red that you can barely see...

Any recommendations? At least the full image is showing up now without any faded spots...just appears there isn't enough ink on the shirt to make it look RED...

Please advise...

Thank you,
Joshua

Squirts · January 20th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by jfrountree


	Okay so I got past the flood stroke issue of the print not coming through but now when I print red on black it's just not very bright as in the it's not showing the true ink's color it's more like a dark dark dark red that you can barely see... Any recommendations? At least the full image is showing up now without any faded spots...just appears there isn't enough ink on the shirt to make it look RED... Please advise... Thank you, Joshua

Red on black Usually requires a base print in white for the color to remain bright and true... the base print image is compressed a few pixels so the red traps the white....

jfrountree · January 20th, 2007

okay so what about printing white?
is there a trick to making it bright or is it pretty simple? (i've not done it before).

jerzycamp · January 20th, 2007

In my experience white is usually printed 1st to make red really pop out on black!

HeathenPeddler · January 20th, 2007

I cheated - I've got a metallic pearl ink for my darks, the metallics seem to cover really well. Apart from that, you could look at the 'super opaque' inks I guess, if you don't want/can't do a base layer (like me - no way to register photoez

)

jfrountree · January 20th, 2007

Okay I printed yellow on the black shirt this time and it's still not printing all that bright...when it dries it's drying pretty dark....

Do black shirts ALWAYS require a white matte?

Please advise.

Thanks!

hon623 · January 20th, 2007

Most of the waterbase / air-dry inks are not opeque enough, i think you may need to switch to plastisol.

jfrountree · January 20th, 2007

Okay so is Plastisol more expensive or where is the best place I can go to just get like a small container of it to test it out?

Please advise.

Thanks!

titerewear · January 20th, 2007

The Platisol Ive had the best results with is Union Ink, Excalibur is pretty good also, Rutland sucks....

jfrountree · January 20th, 2007

Where can I get it online I mean?

Thanks.

hon623 · January 20th, 2007

most of the screenprinting supply store have it, but i would say before you use the plastisol ink, do some research first because it need to have a dryer to cure the ink, otherwise it won't dry.

jfrountree · January 20th, 2007

Can't you use a heat gun or something?

hon623 · January 20th, 2007

i think some people had a good luck on the heat gun. The problem is heat gun cannot give an even heat to your print to cure the ink. It will look good when you dry it, but once you wash your shirt, your image may wash out.
If you plan on doing screen print as a business instead on hobby, try to get a flash cure unit at least.

jfrountree · January 21st, 2007

do you know of any online places that sell them?

thanks.

christophertod · January 21st, 2007

Discharge Ink.

It's nasty stuff in my opinion but you can get amazing results with very soft hand. You will use a heat gun or heat press to get it to temperature. Be careful not to scorch the shirt however.

Discharge with pigment will provide you with amazing results. Just wear a respirator -seriously my left nostril closed up for a month - I had to get a nasal steroid to get back to normal.