Re: tape residue on rubber-topped aluminum pallets Guru- I'm using TekBond high viscosity waterbase adhesive, the first and only i've used. it doesn't say anything about high or med tack, but i think i really was using too much and it soaked thru the tape.
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I found 3/8 alum plate at a local metal supply. i had 5 pcs cut to 16x20. i had them nip the bottom corners in a notcher. i jigsawed the tops to match the shapes of the orig. wood pallets. then i rounded the corners and smoothed the edges w/ a belt sander. i also bought 6' if 1/2 square bar and had my friend tig weld them on the bottom.
i found white nitrile rubber locally as well and bought the 3m adhesive from a local grainger. both of these are exactly the same as action engineering uses.
cost breakdown was:
$122 metal
$71 rubber
$20 misc harware and sandpaper
$30 glue for rubber
$243 total. i figured these to be over $600 from action.
they work well, but if i had to to it again i would have the metal saw cut instead of shear cut, it warped it slightly, but i ran over them with my car to fix it!! they still aren't totally flat, but they won't get any worse and are way better than what i had.
instead of welding bar on the bottom, would countersink bolts into the top and use 1/2"x1'' bar as a spacer then use nuts to secure the brackets. i would sand the boltheads even w/ the pallet, the rubber would cover up any imperfections.
i'll post pics soon. |