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tape residue on rubber-topped aluminum pallets



 
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Old 3 Weeks Ago Oct 29, 2009 5:37:22 PM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default tape residue on rubber-topped aluminum pallets

i use sign transfer tape on my rubber topped pallets. i've always assumed this is the same as pallet tape, only cheaper! i'm about 2 hours into cleaning the glue off my pallets after pulling the tape off. i'm guessing the tape "baked on" after a 400 pc. run. this sucks!

is pallet tape supposedly better? maybe the glue hold up to higher temps better? does anyone who uses a similar combo have probs?

tia!
-mac
 
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Old 3 Weeks Ago Oct 29, 2009 6:54:15 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: tape residue on rubber-topped aluminum pallets

I use pallet mask and have never had any residue problems. I roll pallet tack on top of it and find it usually lasts about 200-300 impressions. I then peel off the tape and throw it out, apply some more tape as well as tack.

Seems like for the amount pallet mask and tack cost, you're already losing money sinking 2 hours into cleaning your pallets after only 400 pieces.
 
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Old 3 Weeks Ago Oct 29, 2009 7:07:53 PM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: tape residue on rubber-topped aluminum pallets

i agree totally!

thinking back, it might have been the roll on adhesive. i think it might have soaked thru, causing the tape to stick way more than necessary. the biggest problem was that it split the tape between it's paper layers, making it tough to get anything through to get the glue loose.

if it ever happens again (hopefully it won't) i'll rip the rubber off! i built the pallets myself about a month ago and 'till today still looked so pretty!!

thanks!
 
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Old 3 Weeks Ago Oct 29, 2009 9:51:35 PM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: tape residue on rubber-topped aluminum pallets

I use to use that stuff as masking when I airbrushed, and that's why I stopped. The damn adhesive is like a rubber sheet attached to the paper. Once separated they are a pain.

Any more info on your pallets? I was thinking about making some aluminum ones myself. Well, should say bartering out the work
 
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Old 3 Weeks Ago Oct 29, 2009 10:01:29 PM -   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: tape residue on rubber-topped aluminum pallets

Quote:
Originally Posted by macmiller
i use sign transfer tape on my rubber topped pallets. i've always assumed this is the same as pallet tape, only cheaper! i'm about 2 hours into cleaning the glue off my pallets after pulling the tape off. i'm guessing the tape "baked on" after a 400 pc. run. this sucks!

is pallet tape supposedly better? maybe the glue hold up to higher temps better? does anyone who uses a similar combo have probs?

tia!
-mac
We use the sign transfer tape and don't have a problem with it sticking to the pallet. Are you using high adhesive or medium adhesive? We use medium.
 
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Old 3 Weeks Ago Oct 31, 2009 8:21:59 AM -   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: tape residue on rubber-topped aluminum pallets

Guru- I'm using TekBond high viscosity waterbase adhesive, the first and only i've used. it doesn't say anything about high or med tack, but i think i really was using too much and it soaked thru the tape.

13-
I found 3/8 alum plate at a local metal supply. i had 5 pcs cut to 16x20. i had them nip the bottom corners in a notcher. i jigsawed the tops to match the shapes of the orig. wood pallets. then i rounded the corners and smoothed the edges w/ a belt sander. i also bought 6' if 1/2 square bar and had my friend tig weld them on the bottom.

i found white nitrile rubber locally as well and bought the 3m adhesive from a local grainger. both of these are exactly the same as action engineering uses.

cost breakdown was:
$122 metal
$71 rubber
$20 misc harware and sandpaper
$30 glue for rubber

$243 total. i figured these to be over $600 from action.

they work well, but if i had to to it again i would have the metal saw cut instead of shear cut, it warped it slightly, but i ran over them with my car to fix it!! they still aren't totally flat, but they won't get any worse and are way better than what i had.


instead of welding bar on the bottom, would countersink bolts into the top and use 1/2"x1'' bar as a spacer then use nuts to secure the brackets. i would sand the boltheads even w/ the pallet, the rubber would cover up any imperfections.

i'll post pics soon.
 
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