Discuss the different plastisol, discharge and water based screen printing inks on the market. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.
So I just tried the eco friendly approach and tried water-base inks. For starters, during printing the inks do clear the screen much better than plastisols and the print has much softer hand. That is where me being impressed ended. What a pain to work with outside of the top two examples. I live in probably the humidest state in America (Florida). I spent more time trying to keep the ink from drying in screens and on squeegees than printing shirts. It took me as long to print 5 test shirts(also testing foil colors) as it would have taken me to do 20 plastisol prints (with foil). Needles to say my need to protect the environment cant afford the time consumption it requires. I am a one man show and this ink adds work with little value over plastisol. My conclusion, I will use if requested but definitely will charge much more for my hassle to work with it. Water-base has a long way to go in my book.
__________________ Cards kill trees! Give a custom printed shirt.
I can relate to your frustration; my learning curve was a good 18 months and still undergoes refinements;
alongside good ol' plastisol, we have to train and support the ability to efficiently print WB in an arid climate like Arizona.
Most of the WB inks available are modified acrylic formulas that are water "friendly". (you can add and wash-up with H2O)
Next time you get the nerve to "dive in" once again, see if you can obtain a "retarder" (normally propylene glycol)
from your supplier and add 3-8%, but watch to not excessively slow heat cure rates.
Adding a bit of water will slow down the evap rate from the on-set also, but having a spray mist bottle of aqua next to the press
and misting as you go is often necessary and will replenish the lost moisture.
Continuous ink flow is key, so during delays it may be necessary to print and not flood, mist the image area,
place a blotter sheet below, and make multiple passes to break open the thickened ink.
Believe it or not, this is often easier on finer meshes than coarser ones, and the easier print rhythm is in auto printing,
as opposed to manual; but we have a lot of manual printers using WB after practicing technique.
How they manage drying ink on squeegees is a post of it's own.
Always insure that subtle emulsion breakdown is not happening, in that it can mimic the symptoms of ink drying in screen.
After all is said and done, I still have clients who swear by plastisol and those who champion WB, but it's about a 8:1 ratio, as you've discovered.
I am far from giving up but right now I am pretty busy and trying to fit in a new edge just is not in the pic. WB is going to be one of those experiment when I have a week or so I can dedicate versus one night. I love the idea foil supposedly does not stick(I got it too) to WB. My big reason for trying WB was the water wash up and lack of need for chemicals that cost money. any ways thanks for the reply and have good one!
Clean Screens!
Matt
__________________ Cards kill trees! Give a custom printed shirt.
We are in Mississippi, and we have the same problem with it drying in the screen. People say that humidity is better for waterbased printing, but I don't believe it. We have to use up to 10% softener, low mesh screens, and print continuously to keep the ink from drying. One test print, you're fine, two or three, you're using screen opener and pressing like crazy to clear the screen.
I knew WB ink would be harder pertaining to the drying quickly in the screen, etc...but my problem is I am not in a position to be able to cure plastisol properly. Am I basically screwed pertaining to starting with WB inks? Or will I just need to be really quick with washing out the screen right after I use the screen?
May I ask what Brand of water base you are using? some inks are designed for the handicraft industry so they may be designed to air dry. I use waterbase every day and have never had issues with ink drying in my screens..tlbays is correct. if you add 3% lubricant to your ink this will definitely slow down the drying process
Dicknastee - what brand are you using? We use permaset aqua and supercover and have had problems with the ink drying with both especially with supercover and especially in fine mesh screens....
I have see some you tube footage from ryonet about their new, I think envir range, which are suppsoedly like printing plastisol bt I don't really believe it! Thanks,
oli.
I would say any of the top ink manufacturers have product that can suit your needs. The inks are designed for long runs with no clogging of screens. It helps to add 3% lubricant which helps prevent drying in the screen.. I have a customer that won't do a job under 10,000 pieces and he's had no complaints....
we came to the same conclusion! its sooo much more work. plus the emulsion for waterbased printing is miserable. We will print discharge, and we do that because its just awesome, but regular waterbased printing is just not efficient compared to plastisol. Like you said, if its requested, we'll, do it, but otherwise...its plastisol. we use Matsui for waterbased inks by the way. As a one man show it would definately be a pain as you would be screwed if you needed to walk away from the press.
by the way, if you really want that waterbased look without the hassle, wilflex has an uncoated pantone mixing system that looks very much like waterbase, its the same inks used to print 'Life is Good' brand.
I print only waterbased/discharge, using Matsui. I keep the screen flooded and I'm fine. I can walk away from the screens for a few minutes usually. Not so much with opaque WB inks, but I usually try to avoid them (there are great ways to improve opaque printability).
WB inks are great, you just have to find a good brand and use proper additives when necessary.
Not being able to walk away from the screens for a long time is fine by me, keeps the press spinning.
water base ink, not user friendly 
Re: water base ink, not user friendly 
