My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
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Discuss the different plastisol, discharge and water based screen printing inks on the market. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.
My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Hi Everyone,
This is my second post to the forum. If someone can answer this one or point me in the right direction, I thank you over and over.
See, this is my dilemma. I love how everyone's color plastisol comes out - almost a matte finish. The only matte color I can get is when I use the "White Pyramid" paint. The other plastisols I use dont even have a label on them.
Is the white printing Matte-ly because of the brand? Why won't other colors come out of the dryer, Matte-ly? They are too shiny and almost look plasticky.
Thanks Everyone.
ShirtCrazy
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Try speeding up the dryer, or turning the heat down a bit. If the inks cure shiny, it usually means they have been liquified for longer than necessary, allowing them to flow out and create a smooth, shiny surface (think paint). Obviously don't undercure them, though.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Quote:
Originally Posted by midwaste
Try speeding up the dryer, or turning the heat down a bit. If the inks cure shiny, it usually means they have been liquified for longer than necessary, allowing them to flow out and create a smooth, shiny surface (think paint). Obviously don't undercure them, though.
Thank you MidWaste. Temp should be right around the 330 degree mark right? Any idea how long the shirt should go through the dryer? Will that depend on individual scenarios? I've witnessed the undercurring of plastisols- it is not a pretty site.
Thanks again,
ShirtCrazy
Last edited by shirtcrazy; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:27 AM.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Hi Screen Outlaw,
That's funny you should say that about the names: Matte-ly and Plasticky. I couldn't think of better ways to describe what I was seeing/feeling. I'm sure there are some ind. standard names to call these, which I'll learn one day.
Mesh: 125's and 150's. Should I be using higher mesh?
I just do a print, print, then dry. Should I do a print-flash-print-dry process? One friend had asked the same question and I was like why would you want to do that. He said it was an ind. trick. If I find that this is what people are doing, I'll do this. I figured it was only for doing multiple colored prints, but maybe we are to do something like this even for 1 color prints.
When I get some cash, I think it'll be wise for me to go invest in some real paint, like the Pyramid brand.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
No worries, S.C.
....your description well communicated what you were looking at....we'll refer to the "paint" as "ink", from now on, though.
Since there's not any ready info on your unlabeled containers of ink, look to run a test for the print surface you want to achieve.
(and ink cure performance at the same time; as a useful byproduct of the test).
Take your 150 mesh (tightest you have) and print the ink sample with a hard, sharp squeegee through your screen
onto a white test shirt with one, even pass and cure (heat dry at 320F) the test print.
It should have a matte surface, but more importantly, wash the test print and see if you've got an ink that is in good condition.
This test will provide a starting point to refine further printing with dependable results using this ink.
Note that plastisol inks do have some storage requirements and do have a shelf life that can make an ink appear and act (and smell) more "plasticky" over time.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Most plastisol inks are satiny or glossy by design. There are manufacturers who will produce a matte finish ink.
If I recall correctly the glossy appearance of most plastisols was by design and that a matte finish would be the standard result if not for the additive. Of course things change...
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Thank you ScreenOutlaw.
I'll try this rec out then.
LOL! Ink not Paint.. Ugh... Cool I got it now.
BTW, you mention tightest screen I have. So it's possible to have loose screens. I picked some screens up the other day and they were unusually loose, but I figured that was just the way they were. I'll take them back to the supply store to ask for a replacement on those.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
mesh tension gets loose with use, we change our mesh after ever couple thousands prints. Wooden frames loose tension faster then aluminum ones.
Using a higher mesh leaves less deposit of ink, this will help reduce the 'plasticky' look. Are you printing colors on top of a base coat of white ink? if you do a thin base coat, this will help give bright colors and limit the 'plasticky' look.
These other inks you're using, without a label, are they really thick inks? what's the viscosity like? If they are old inks they may need some reducer or try some extender base. This will allow you to lay down a thin coat of ink, helping to give you the matt look. The thicker you deposit the ink the more 'plasticky' it will be.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Sean,
Great feedback Sir. Thank you. I'm guessing my 125's are high enough then. I asked the guy what the industry standard was for screenprinting on shirts. He said 125's should be good for what I'm doing. I later came back and he told me to get some 150's. I think I should go back to square one and start with 200+. Those would probably give a better outcome then what I've been seeing.
I'll try putting the thin base coat as well. I'm assuming you are talking about for ink on dark colors right? I see the ink well on white shirts.
Thanks again,
S.C.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shirtcrazy
Hi Everyone,
This is my second post to the forum. If someone can answer this one or point me in the right direction, I thank you over and over.
See, this is my dilemma. I love how everyone's color plastisol comes out - almost a matte finish. The only matte color I can get is when I use the "White Pyramid" paint. The other plastisols I use dont even have a label on them.
Is the white printing Matte-ly because of the brand? Why won't other colors come out of the dryer, Matte-ly? They are too shiny and almost look plasticky.
Thanks Everyone.
ShirtCrazy
Hi, my guess is that you got a small Dryer! and you have to run higher
temp than nessesary but if you reduce temp you would not cure propper
right?
Take 2% SoftPuff Additive or any other Foam Additive and mix to your
Plastisol - you will get a fine matte finish!
be shure to cure at 320F for min. 60 sec.!!! better 90 sec.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
ya, the thin base coat is for when printing on dark garments.
using mesh 200+ will allow you to hold more detailed designs as well as help reduce ink deposit. It would be good to keep several of those 125s for designs that require a thicker deposit. 125s are great for thicker ink, like specialty inks (metallic, gel, ect..)
If you often use a base coat (a "flash" or "mask") on darks, those 125s are good for that as the 'flash cure' base coat ink is usually thicker and harder to manually print on higher mesh counts.
Rainers idea of adding a bit of puff additive is a good and easy way to print 1color/1 pass and get great coverage for the cost (materials and time). Do be aware that using puff additive does however dull the color. The additive tends to make the colors pastel (ex:lemon yellow becomes daisy yellow).
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Quote:
Originally Posted by red514
ya, the thin base coat is for when printing on dark garments.
using mesh 200+ will allow you to hold more detailed designs as well as help reduce ink deposit. It would be good to keep several of those 125s for designs that require a thicker deposit. 125s are great for thicker ink, like specialty inks (metallic, gel, ect..)
If you often use a base coat (a "flash" or "mask") on darks, those 125s are good for that as the 'flash cure' base coat ink is usually thicker and harder to manually print on higher mesh counts.
Rainers idea of adding a bit of puff additive is a good and easy way to print 1color/1 pass and get great coverage for the cost (materials and time). Do be aware that using puff additive does however dull the color. The additive tends to make the colors pastel (ex:lemon yellow becomes daisy yellow).
My exp. is - using only 2% will not dull your ink...
anyway - buy a new dryer or add. some puff...much cheaper!
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Hi Rainer,
Thanks a lot. My dryer is a long dryer not small just a bit old I guess. It's about 12' long and the temp reader is not digital but more like your conventional oven. I have to shoot the laser on the ink to verify 330 degrees because my dial reads 430 degrees. Just a work around.
Thanks for the tip about soft puff additive. It was recommended that I use a reducer by the supply store. Something tells me that guy is telling me to buy everything but what I need. I need to switch supply stores if this is the case.
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols.
Hi Red514,
Thanks for the feedback. Can you elaborate on the below:
Quote:
Originally Posted by red514
ya, the thin base coat is for when printing on dark garments.
using mesh 200+ will allow you to hold more detailed designs as well as help reduce ink deposit. It would be good to keep several of those 125s for designs that require a thicker deposit. 125s are great for thicker ink, like specialty inks (metallic, gel, ect..)
If you often use a base coat (a "flash" or "mask") on darks, those 125s are good for that as the 'flash cure' base coat ink is usually thicker and harder to manually print on higher mesh counts.
?? What is flash/mask base coat vs "flash cure" base coat?
Rainers idea of adding a bit of puff additive is a good and easy way to print 1color/1 pass and get great coverage for the cost (materials and time). Do be aware that using puff additive does however dull the color. The additive tends to make the colors pastel (ex:lemon yellow becomes daisy yellow).
This is a discussion about My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols. that was posted in the Screen Printing Inks section of the forums.
My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols. 
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols. 
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols. 
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols. 
Re: My second post. Yeah!!! Anyhow this one is about shiny plastisols. 
If you often use a base coat (a "flash" or "mask") on darks, those 125s are good for that as the 'flash cure' base coat ink is usually thicker and harder to manually print on higher mesh counts.
