Discuss the different types of equipment needed for screen printing. Topics include manual screen printing presses, automatic presses, dryers, folding machines, starter kits and high end machines.
I had a design made and when he sent it back in corel draw i printed the positives out but there was a problem. Most of the design was black like always, but some of the designs like effects are not clear, but not all the way black. I am having trouble burning it.
It's a one color print,Hot Pink with 2 other different light pinks.
Do I need a more powerful light table, or do I have to change those 2 other different light pinks & have 3 film positives with 3 different screens. This is my 1st design like this and I hope I am making sense
Any Help would be Great Thanks
P.S. Looking through the colors it's the same color, but he turn down the % for those light pinks.
It sounds like when he created the output file, he made the lighter pinks halftones (less than 100% opacity) of the original, rather than having two separate screens/spot colors.
What type of exposure unit are you using? What mesh screens? What emulsion, etc? All of those are factors in exposing halftones.
Halftones are more difficult to burn than a standard spot color. Look around the forum for threads on halftones.
You may have to print two positives and tape them together... If you have lines that are not as solid as they should be, you can fill in with a sharpie. Give some exposure details like time and what kind of unit. And you need a screen for every color.... so if you have three different pinks, then you need three screens. if your positive is not solid black, the screen will not expose.
I have printed halftones in the past, but the only thing is the former artist would send the half tones solid black (along with the rest of the design). The new artist just sends it over and I do the print separation from the printer tab. I got a Epson 1280. Is there a certain software to print this.
It sounds like when he created the output file, he made the lighter pinks halftones (less than 100% opacity) of the original, rather than having two separate screens/spot colors.
What type of exposure unit are you using? What mesh screens? What emulsion, etc? All of those are factors in exposing halftones.
Halftones are more difficult to burn than a standard spot color. Look around the forum for threads on halftones.
Can it be burn and printed that way? I do not see any tiny dots on my film positive. It is just printed light? I have a lawson Expo-Light 3248, and if need be, I can get my hands on a lawson Nova-QS. THe person that is burning it, is using at least a 280 mesh and not sure about the type of emulsion.
I have printed halftones in the past, but the artist i use to do. Sent the film positive all ready color separated (everything in the design already black). This new guy sends it and I hit the color separation tab for my epson 1280 printer. Do I need software for this new way?
Transparencies (not halftones) are a no-no, so you will probably need to have your artist convert those areas into halftones.
If they can't do it, you can use the Ghostscript/Ghostview mentioned above to output the halftones yourself.
Transparencies (not halftones) are a no-no, so you will probably need to have your artist convert those areas into halftones.
If they can't do it, you can use the Ghostscript/Ghostview mentioned above to output the halftones yourself.
Thanks. I am in the process of trying that Ghostscript/Ghostview
Ok. So my old artist must have went the long way around with artwork, b/c what I did was installed AccuRip free trail and then just printed through the Accu Rip and it printed out with halftones. I guess I will have to play around and learn accu rip.
Film Positive/Burning/Printing??? 
