Discuss the different types of equipment needed for screen printing. Topics include manual screen printing presses, automatic presses, dryers, folding machines, starter kits and high end machines.
I agree use the reclaimer but if your in a pinch use the bleach to get you by. That was the question asked. Have you ever tried using an alternative anything
Reclaimer-- Bleach
Drycleaning fluid--- Berrymans Carb Cleaner
Degreaser----- Simple Green
Spray adhesive---- Elmers spray tack glue
Transfer Paper---Vinyl backing paper
You never know untill you try and all of these work in a pinch
if your in a pinch use the bleach to get you by. That was the question asked.
The question wasn't that specific, so we don't know that that was "the question asked" at all. But based on precedent, you're most likely wrong - most people who want "household" solutions want to cut corners (in other words they're after permanent solutions, not something to use in a pinch).
With some aspects of screenprinting, that's a good way to save time and money. When it comes to chemicals, personally I recommend using professional supplies.
Are you saying I'm wrong about using Bleach as an alternative to Reclaimer.Theres alot of the same properties in bleach as in the reclaimer.
The question that was asked was
does anyone know of a way to make homemade reclaimer
My reply was
no need to make any,
just use good old fashioned bleach
so I think I answered his question.
so tell me Old Wise-one why cant you use bleach?
I've used it many times & it works the same or better than reclaimer. Granted my Diptank is full of reclaimer but thats not what were talking about. You said I'm wrong- Tell me why
Water or solvent resistance of a stencil depends on the complete cross-linking of the ingredients by the sensitizer with UV energy. If the exposure time is too short, or UV energy doesn't move all the way through the stencil, the cross-linking is incomplete, and complete resistance isn't achieved.
UV energy reacts with diazo or photopolymer sensitizer in the stencil and causes a chemical cross-link between the two components that make up the "emulsion". Linked together, and woven in and out of your mesh, the exposed/cured/hardened stencil will not dissolve with water and rinse own the drain.
Industrial stencil removers use Sodium MetaPeriodate (SMP, CAS 7790-28-5), to attack these cross-links, releasing breaking down the stencil so it will dissolve, and you can reclaim the mesh and coat it again.
If you let this "soup' of stencil remover & emulsion dry on the mesh before you can rinse them down the drain, they form a new chemical bond that is permanent. There is no chemical to break down this chemical combination except the brute force of water pressure. Yes you will also lose mesh tension blasting the mesh as it vibrates like a drum, if the stencil doesn't come out. If you use 3,000 psi water, you don't even need a chemical to breakdown your stencil, but it helps to have tight mesh to resist the pulsing water from a pressure washer.
This this hard to reclaim effect also happens with under-exposed stencils. No cross-links - hard to reclaim.
A stencil may have worked OK with harmless plastisol, but if you clean the ink with a strong solvent, the solvent can attack the defenseless under-exposed stencil and chemically bond it to the mesh that only a razor blade can fix.
Bleach is used to remove gelatin indirect stencils, but bleach is inferior to SMP for breaking UV cross-linked diazo or SBQ. It takes more bleach to do the work of a small amount of SMP.
Many will answer, "but it works", this is a classic do you have time or money question.
When you go home I want you to use a key to open your front door, not the kick of brute force.
First of all, I started this thread on a different account and really didn't intend for this kind of response. But...
The reason I was even looking at bleach was because I only had one used screen and needed it for a same day project. While having no professional supplies as I do now, I quickly turned to good old google, which led me here.