Discuss the different types of equipment needed for screen printing. Topics include manual screen printing presses, automatic presses, dryers, folding machines, starter kits and high end machines.
I read on a website the when using a manual screen print press you can't use any mesh over 156 because humans don't have enough strength. sounds like bs to me but can you help me on this one.
On a similar subject,
What mesh is the best on tees that will deliver superb quality and detail at the best price?
I read on a website the when using a manual screen print press you can't use any mesh over 156 because humans don't have enough strength. sounds like bs to me but can you help me on this one.
It's complete BS - it's actually seriously worrying to me that anyone would even say that. It just makes no sense at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kongfish
On a similar subject,
What mesh is the best on tees that will deliver superb quality and detail at the best price?
It really depends on the design you're printing, what you're printing on, etc. If you want "superb quality" you need to match the tools to the job (and price is irrelevant - this isn't an expensive item).
It really depends on the design you're printing, what you're printing on, etc. If you want "superb quality" you need to match the tools to the job (and price is irrelevant - this isn't an expensive item).
Amen.... people here usually want 'CHEAP'.... but cheap trash costs more than a competitvely priced job done right....
I read on a website the when using a manual screen print press you can't use any mesh over 156 because humans don't have enough strength. sounds like bs to me but can you help me on this one.
On a similar subject,
What mesh is the best on tees that will deliver superb quality and detail at the best price?
Ahh,
My dearies,
But I never used the word "cheap"
I said which mesh is the best for the finest detail for the best deal.
I see some have this coating and some have that coating which one is the best overall mesh for the money which also give you the best results.
But I never used the word "cheap"
I said which mesh is the best for the finest detail for the best deal.
And we said, it depends on the job at hand. There is no one size fits all solution - if there were then supply shops wouldn't provide such a dizzying array of options.
What's the best price so we know how much you want to spend? Are you going to print 50 or 5,000? - or 15 different jobs of 150?
Where do you live? Fiji or Philadelphia?
355 mesh supports detail better than 110 mesh.
355 deposits less ink than 110.
Softer blades bend more at the lip than stiffer blades.
Stiffer blades don't deflect as much as they overcome mesh tension and off-contact distance.
You, have to define what the best results are. You may want a film of ink, or a soft hand.
You make a print, then state what you want to change. I can make a 305 print like a 158 or a 158 print like a 305, just as you might know a person that will play golf with you for money -with just one club.
Mesh count is only one variable. I know printers that only print on darks - and they have no mesh counts lower than 300, or tension less than 30 newtons. You can't print with those screens on a press with platens that are not parallel to the mesh and the same off-contact.
To print faster, sharper images, you should raise tension, raise mesh count, lower off-contact and print with stiffer blades.
Mesh count is a moving target as you improve or change other variables.
__________________
How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Support Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member
Last edited by RichardGreaves; March 30th, 2009 at 09:16 AM.
What's the best price so we know how much you want to spend? Are you going to print 50 or 5,000? - or 15 different jobs of 150?
Where do you live? Fiji or Philadelphia?
355 mesh supports detail better than 110 mesh.
355 deposits less ink than 110.
Softer blades bend more at the lip than stiffer blades.
Stiffer blades don't deflect as much as they overcome mesh tension and off-contact distance.
You, have to define what the best results are. You may want a film of ink, or a soft hand.
You make a print, then state what you want to change. I can make a 305 print like a 158 or a 158 print like a 305, just as you might know a person that will play golf with you for money -with just one club.
Mesh count is only one variable. I know printers that only print on darks - and they have no mesh counts lower than 300, or tension less than 30 newtons. You can't print with those screens on a press with platens that are not parallel to the mesh and the same off-contact.
To print faster, sharper images, you should raise tension, raise mesh count, lower off-contact and print with stiffer blades.
Mesh count is a moving target as you improve or change other variables.
thank you , Now that's educational information that will allow me to understand what mesh range to select' with some since of knowing', that I am in the mesh count area of at least feeling I am near getting the best results, and can adjust from that point - or + to increase my detail.
Do you sell a sample pack I can get from you. or do I have to go through the salesman in the myrtle Beach, S.C. region.
What's the best price so we know how much you want to spend? Are you going to print 50 or 5,000? - or 15 different jobs of 150?
Where do you live? Fiji or Philadelphia?
355 mesh supports detail better than 110 mesh.
355 deposits less ink than 110.
Softer blades bend more at the lip than stiffer blades.
Stiffer blades don't deflect as much as they overcome mesh tension and off-contact distance.
You, have to define what the best results are. You may want a film of ink, or a soft hand.
You make a print, then state what you want to change. I can make a 305 print like a 158 or a 158 print like a 305, just as you might know a person that will play golf with you for money -with just one club.
Mesh count is only one variable. I know printers that only print on darks - and they have no mesh counts lower than 300, or tension less than 30 newtons. You can't print with those screens on a press with platens that are not parallel to the mesh and the same off-contact.
To print faster, sharper images, you should raise tension, raise mesh count, lower off-contact and print with stiffer blades.
Mesh count is a moving target as you improve or change other variables.
Do you got any of that smack, on a good printer/ rip combo that is going to give me the best results for the money and on going ink prices?
mesh count is it to high? 
Re: mesh count is it to high? 
