jace1899

Hi. I am currently using Hix aluminum retensionable frames and I am thinking of switching to Newman roller frames. Does anyone have advice on this switch? Is it a good idea? Are the Newmans superior?

I have found that the Hix frames are quick to lose tension once stretched. And the mesh is always tearing on the sides of the frame so instead of retensioning, I end up re-stretching mesh!

Are the Newmans more user friendly? Do they hold up better over time? Tearing? Are they easy to retension?

Thanks.

 

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Calibrated

The only issues I have with the Hix frames is that they will - depending on tension- be slightly different in width making them hard to use with standard drying racks if you use them. Also they only have a very limited amount of tension ability by comparison to a roller frame....especially on higher mesh counts which tend to need to be stretched more as the mesh loosens.

Now all that said, most of the reasons why people have issues with ripped mesh on roller frames is they are simply careless in how they handle them in the shop. Higher tension screens will rip much easier so it goes without saying that diligence must be taken to prevent damage. I have seen many shops that have home made wood racks that have sharp edges that make micro tears in the mesh every time they slide them into a drying rack...and often times they blame the issue on the concept that roller frames are too much work to maintain.

Roller frames like Newmans are permanent and with even basic care can last decades or more. Sefar has also come out with a very nice frame that has some features that I like. The industry has proven time and time again that there is simply no better investment than good roller frames for a professional shop. I have a few articles about them on my site that explain in detail why its a good investment for any shop.

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jace1899

Great info. I'll definitely read the article. Thanks for the help!

 

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tpitman

I presume you have a tension meter. With the Newmans, there is a little bit of a learning curve, and it's important to do the corner softening right, but it's not rocket science. Get the instructions from Stretch Devices and follow them to the letter. Most of my misfortune with ripped mesh has to do with NOT following the instructions. That, and carelessness. One thing that takes a lot of the work out of roller frames is to use the Shur-Loc mesh panels. They ain't cheap, but I've never ripped one over the course of stretching one. I did pop a newly-stretched panel when I dropped an aluminum handled squeegie on it. $15 bucks shot. If you take care of them, though, they're great. The regular way of stretching mesh on Newmans is a little more tedious, but if you carefully follow the directions, works very well. It's not as if you're stretching screens all day long, anyway, and once the mesh is installed, then it's just an occasional retentioning. Having tight screens all the time is a real benefit. Check your tension before reusing, and eventually, you'll rarely have to tighten them up as they become work hardened.

 

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