Discuss the different brands, makes and models of printers used to print inkjet and laser heat transfers. Also includes information on the inks that can be used to make your own transfers.
The type of ink will depend on the type of material you are printing on. For cotton, pigment is a favorite over dye. For poly, sublimation is an option. Sublimation can not be used on 100% cotton.
Welcome to the forums, Mike. The regular inkjet transfer papers are for cotton tees; both dye and pigmented inks could be used for those papers. Conversely, sublimation papers would require the use of sublimation inks. A forum search will also give you a lot more infos.
A laser printer could do all three, just fyi. Your inkjet printer with dye or pigment ink could use inkjet transfers to print on shirts and mouse pads; for mugs, you need an inkjet printer with sublimation inks and use sublimation papers on a sublimation-ready (coated) mugs.
ONLYdyeORpigment ink is to be used on shirts and mouse pads. ONLYSublimation ink is to be used on "special" mugs.
Is that correct?
, it's a bit too general.
This one's better, I think:
Only dye or pigment inks for inkjet transfer papers (like the IronAll, Forever Inkjet, etc.) to be used for cotton shirts and mousepads.
Only sublimation ink to be used for sublimation papers for transferring on "special-sublimation ready" mugs.
The transfer papers you plan to use would determine the type of inks to use.
Sorry if it's more confusing. Maybe this could also help:
This one using a laser transfer paper for mug:
I'll try and look for a video on sublimation mugs.
p.s. Normally, you'll need another dedicated inkjet printer for your sublimation inks, as it's not advisable to switch ink types.
" The dye in the dye-based ink dissolves in water like sugar does in water -- completely.
Pigment does not dissolve completely. It is more like a flour and water mixture.
Because of this, dye-based inks flow better and have been the standard in inkjet printers. But the dye will re-dissolve and the ink will flow across the paper if drops of water hit the paper.
Pigmented ink particles tend to settle into the tiny fibers that make up the paper. As the ink drys, the pigment particles get stuck in the fibers. Thus, the pigmented inks are more water resistent than the dye-based inks. Only about 5 to 10 percent of the ink will re-flow if the paper is hit by water."
Good point Paula, thanks. Yep, some (or a lot) prefer pigment inks, but I know that some are also using dye inks with no problems. I guess you just have to check it out for yourself.
Hi Mike
I am also new to this but have learned alot in the few months I have been doing this
If you are looking to do your own prints like myself use a bulk ink system on your 1400
use transmagic2 inks with the chromablast paper. i have used jetpro soft stretch (jpss)
and it worked ok on some and bled on others. I just started using the chromablast and so far
it looks great,even after washing. the only problem with this setup is that you are limited to
white or natural color tees...will not print on darks.Do not be fooled into buying the chromablast inks
(as I was) it seems that ant good ink works with this paper (chromablast paper)
This is my first post so next time I post I will be able to upload some photos of the tees I did
per/post... print /wash so you can see the outcome. Some people have complained of a yellow window/border from the paper.I have not seen any negative on the tees I did...Yet
My settings are 375 degrees @ 40 sec with pressure setting of 8/9= heavy pressure (hotrontix digital press). You also may want to use a parchment paper to cut down on the chance of scorching the tees.
I got my inks from Alpha supplys..very helpful people there (good ol' boys)
Hope this helps ya. I will post pix asap
Hi guys;
From my experience, you MUST use pigmented ink for tees of any type. I use only 50/50 shirts & the inks work fine. Many swear by 100% cotton shirts, with my only reasons for using 50/50 is that they take less time to dry, little if any shrinkage & need only touch-up ironing as long as they're not left in the dryer for long when finished. I've been using iron-all for lights & darks with nothing but excellent results. Be Well, Skinbus.