Discuss the different plastisol screen printing inks and curing methods on the market. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.
Yeah I do. It works pretty good on gildan g2000/5000 black. It works terrible on other brands. I like just using a standard plastisol base- get predictable results.
Yeah I do. It works pretty good on gildan g2000/5000 black. It works terrible on other brands. I like just using a standard plastisol base- get predictable results.
Yeah I like just using standard base but this one artwork is a pain getting a choke on it so I thought I'd try using one screen red ink on black with discharge mixed with red.
I have not tried a color like red or green mixed with discharge. Only white.
Maybe I'll play with a color discharge sometime soon and see what happens.
Henry congrats on your black shirt, I just saw it.
How's the auto coming?
I have not tried a color like red or green mixed with discharge. Only white.
Maybe I'll play with a color discharge sometime soon and see what happens.
Henry congrats on your black shirt, I just saw it.
How's the auto coming?
Thanks! The auto is awesome, I don't know what I'd do without it.
Edit: I guess it would be called plasticharge lol
Last edited by TshirtGuru; September 7th, 2009 at 09:16 PM.
Hello Guys!
You do not want to mix standard discharge with standard plastisol. There is not an emulsifier in discharge bases to blend the two ink chemistries together.
Wilflex offers a product called Wilflex Oasis Plascharge. It is designed to be mixed with a plastisol ink. You can mix at a rate of 50 plastisol ink and 50 plascharge. You then take the powdered activator and mix it in at 6% by weight. Like standard discharge it is designed to be printed on 100% cotton and you should always test the garment to ensure it is dischargable before starting large runs. For more info on this product you can go to www.wilflex.com/pib
I know most large manufacturors make this product, so you can check with them too.
Hello Guys!
You do not want to mix standard discharge with standard plastisol. There is not an emulsifier in discharge bases to blend the two ink chemistries together.
Wilflex offers a product called Wilflex Oasis Plascharge. It is designed to be mixed with a plastisol ink. You can mix at a rate of 50 plastisol ink and 50 plascharge. You then take the powdered activator and mix it in at 6% by weight. Like standard discharge it is designed to be printed on 100% cotton and you should always test the garment to ensure it is dischargable before starting large runs. For more info on this product you can go to www.wilflex.com/pib
I know most large manufacturors make this product, so you can check with them too.
Because it states discharge and not plascharge, plasticharge, etc., it makes me think it is designed to be printed on it's own, not mixed together with plastisol. You can most likely print it as an underbase and print plastisol on top, but I would recommend contacting their technical services to clarify.
Because it states discharge and not plascharge, plasticharge, etc., it makes me think it is designed to be printed on it's own, not mixed together with plastisol. You can most likely print it as an underbase and print plastisol on top, but I would recommend contacting their technical services to clarify.
Erin
Thanks Erin,
Well I've used with as an underbase and it works, but I wondered if I could add is straight into a spot color plastisol so there wouldn't have to be an underbase. Since one is waterbased and the other is oil based, I guess technically it won't mix well together like you say. I'll check out the Oasis.
Besides Wilflex, Union makes a popular product called Plasticharge (DSPCH-9070).
On one hand, it can be printed by itself for a basic dye-discharge (to natural cotton fiber color) if desired, and then color printed on top if also desired.
On the other hand, it can be mixed with a suitable plastisol to leave that color in place in a one-step process.
Notes:
-Low Bleed inks don't work well as the mixer of choice.
-Mixing in based-down ink colors doesn't have the hoped for color strength.
-High-opacity colors (i.e.-Maxopake) can work well in 50/50 mixes, but reds can be a bear to get bright; most other colors are OK.
-Color booster concentrates added into high-opacity colors to beef up opacity work well for troublesome reds.
FYI- Matsui DSPS is an excellent, true waterbased discharge base, but unfortunately not a plastisol ink mixing formula.
Besides Wilflex, Union makes a popular product called Plasticharge (DSPCH-9070).
On one hand, it can be printed by itself for a basic dye-discharge (to natural cotton fiber color) if desired, and then color printed on top if also desired.
On the other hand, it can be mixed with a suitable plastisol to leave that color in place in a one-step process.
Notes:
-Low Bleed inks don't work well as the mixer of choice.
-Mixing in based-down ink colors doesn't have the hoped for color strength.
-High-opacity colors (i.e.-Maxopake) can work well in 50/50 mixes, but reds can be a bear to get bright; most other colors are OK.
-Color booster concentrates added into high-opacity colors to beef up opacity work well for troublesome reds.
FYI- Matsui DSPS is an excellent, true waterbased discharge base, but unfortunately not a plastisol ink mixing formula.
I just tried this with some Union Maxopake Golden Yellow. Mixed 50/50 and 6% activator. Came out best on a Hanes Tagless Tee. Gildans come out a little darker with this and Unions' Plasticharge White (DSPCH-1000). There's a slight stiffness after printing, but very*soft and bright after washing. Needs to be done with a 156-175 mesh count.