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Discuss the different plastisol screen printing inks and curing methods on the market. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.

Union inks discharge model DSPP 1003



 
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Old August 31st, 2009 Aug 31, 2009 8:31:05 PM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default Union inks discharge model DSPP 1003

Hey fellas. I ran into an small issue tonight. i have a run of tees i need to knock asap. but i don't have white plastisol ink. what i do have is some DSPP 1003 Union ink brand. I'm a little shaky using this because i know for best results its good to have a fairly long gas dryer. the dryer i do have is a vastex econo 2 infrared dryer without the forced blower option. its about 7 or ft long but i only have one chamber that is about 3 -4 ft long. what id like to know is how long shoudl the shirt run threw the dryer and if i should run them for a min really slow and then shoot them threw again. Ive noticed sometimes the ink comes out really really stiff and once washed its a hell of allot softer but then fades a bit. i will be printing on AA Kelly green tees. any suggestions would be great.
 
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Old September 1st, 2009 Sep 1, 2009 3:16:30 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Union inks discharge model DSPP 1003

Hi Tashi

18 hours later this may be a moot point....

You can get the DSPP-1003 Discharge White to work; and are correct that 2-3 times through you tunnel length may be needed. To get the dye discharge to occur, you just need to evap all the moisture from the ink, then the temp can rise sufficiently to let the ink react and cure.

The reason for the possible third time through is to insure that you made it to 320F; that complete cure will reduce the amount of "fade" after the first washing.

Make sure you're using the ZFS Activator Powder in it at 6-8% by weight, and have a water-resist emulsion on your screen and you'll be fine.

Good luck!
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Old September 5th, 2009 Sep 5, 2009 4:51:58 PM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Union inks discharge model DSPP 1003

Discharge ink is designed to be in the tunnel for 2 to 3 minutes where all the water and amonia boils off...you would need a really slow speed setting for your conveyor to do it right. Short of that run it through as many times as necessary to get a full discharge and a full cure. Test...test...test before doing production. Try different temp settings and times through and then do your own wash tests. You will save yourself grief down the road having to repint a production run. Your customers assume you are a professional and have all that wired before they give you the order. Sacrificing one shirt and cutting up into a dozen squares with a smal square print of ink on each at different temps and times through and speeds through should give you the answer you need. Every dryer is different. Someday you will look back and be glad you took that time and care to do it right.
 
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