Discuss the different plastisol screen printing inks and curing methods on the market. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.
Ok, here's today's problem. LOL, I'll make it through this eventually.
Prints are going pretty good. Colors on white look great for the most part, but I'm running into a problem with white on black.
I had a problem with "hairs" earlier, and figured out my off contact was too much. Cool, that's fixed.
Now here's the problem, and it's happening with any color that I print/flash/print, but of course it's white that I actually print this way. When I cure some, or all of the print is turning glossy. I am using a flash dryer, so the edges aren't as hot as the center. The center turns glossy, and the edges aren't, so I end up repositioning til it's all uniform.
Am I getting it too hot, or is this the norm?
I'm using Union Ultrasoft "super opaque white" #1697. Does this ink generally turn glossy when cured? Do all the union ultrasoft inks?
My colors on white are much thinner, so they have much less gloss, but still have some.
I may need your help.....
...the part# for Union Ultrasoft Super OP White is PLUS-1020.
Some Union plastisol forumlas produce a matte finish (ex.-PADM-1062), some satin (ex.-PLHT-1070) and some are gloss (ex.-POLY-1050).
Regardless, note that your ink deposit (and added multi-layering) can impact the surface result when all is said and done. What's your favorite mesh count?
Plastisol is basically a liquid PVC plastic, and can be thick printed to a point of appearing like a shiny vinyl.
High cure temps will tend to "gloss" thicker layers as the print coating melts and gels.
PLUS-1020(?) would do this with those conditions. Other PLUS inks will do the same if thick P/F/P, or top-printed onto a highly sealed underlay.
If you're on 100% cotton, ask your supplier if they have PADM-1027 Brite Cotton White, or PADM-1062 if you're on 50/50.
Other option would be to add 3-5% Suede Additive (Dulling Paste) PLSE-9101 to your PLUS-1020(?) and then print slightly thinner layers to insure a matte finish, if you desire.
Don't add too much......it will begin to puff up at higher %'s.
It is 1020, my fault for not actually looking at the container, I went with what was on the website.
I figured I was curing too hot, and after several hours of trying to get a hold of someone from union, they confirmed it.
I came up with a method to cure a little more evenly, at a lower temperature, and I think I've got that licked. I spent a few hours printing test shirts today, and buy the end I was curing for 20 seconds about 5 inches from my flash dryer with a "hood" around it to hold the heat in. I was doing P/F/P, and P/F/P/F/P so the ink was fairly thick, and gloss was minimal when cured. It wasn't completely flat, or even matte for that matter, but kind of like a semi gloss wall paint.
I was wrong about having my "hairs" problem under control though. It's not at all.
On a side note. I spoke with Roger Jennings a while back, and he suggested Union 1030 for white on black. He made it sound like it was the end all for that application.
If you use a white under base you don't want it cured before you other colors. you want it to be tacky to the touch or it will gloss and other colors may peel.
I'm actually doing a white print on black. I think I may just have to buy a different white ink. I think I have the curing issue handled. I'm still getting fibers poking through though.
I've tried crushing the first pass, laying it on really lightly, hard flood, soft flood, p/f/p/f/p, p/p/f/p/p, I just can't seem to keep the little bastards down.
I redid the screen, and coated 2/2 instead of 1/1, and it's better, but still have fibers peeking up.
I did some test shirts earlier printed in about 8 spots on each with different techniques. All of them had fibers, and most of the fibers are showing after 4 washes. The rest of the print is solid though.
I've got some new shirts coming tomorrow. Hopefully that will help.
I was having a problem with the "hairs" on my print also... I tested a sample from willflex called white tiger..seemed to be better than the white I was using......same technique for both inks ...willflex layed down a nicer print...minimal hairs.....
International Coatings 711LF low bleed white will flash in 10 sec. using most flash cure units holding down the fibers using a 110 mesh and give you a matte finish. You can also get closer than 5 inches when you cycle every 10 seconds and not burn anything. It's creamier and flows easier than Wilflex Tiger White or any of the Union inks that I have tried. Stir well first and off you go. Good luck.
Bryant,
Thanks for the info. I did a couple more test pieces yesterday but still don't have my new inks. I used the QCM XOLB 158 again, but this time stired the heck out of it with a drill for several minutes. It wasn't much creamier than before, but I changed the stroke a bit, and got some good results. I'm basically doing 2 20 second flashes and getting a nice matte finish. Can still see the screen pattern in the ink though.
I'll add the IC 711 LF to the list of inks to try though.
Currently I'm waiting for some new XOLB, and some Union 1027, and 1030 to come in.
Am I curing too hot? 
