Discuss the different plastisol screen printing inks and curing methods on the market. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.
i am having a problem flashing a solid white underbase. i have tried adjusting temp. and height and time under the flash. as soon as i get it flashed enough to touch and print my colors on top and cure they rub off the white.
i am wfwfrfk there are halftone on the black so it needs to be smooth. is why i wfw first. i cant seem to get it smooth unless i do this.
i use unio inks w 180 screen tightened to 28 and 255 on black and red. ranar forced air flash , econored2 dryer.
thanks
Last edited by fourstate; November 3rd, 2009 at 03:38 PM.
Theoretically, the reason the top coat of ink rubs off is that somewhere underneath ink has cured. Why do you need two coats of white. One coat, preferably with the underbase printed at 80% with a 230 or higher screen works best. The first coat of white will retain some heat. Subsequent flashing, even if the last coat is only jelled, may be building up the temp on the first coat. I have never used 2 coats for an underbase so I am only speaking generally. Hope this helps.
What are you printing on? If it's fleece, I can understand the problem and really don't have an answer. Otherwise, yes, just be sure to get your hafltone angles right so you don't get a moire pattern. I use c-26, m-39, y-48, k-75.
Any unused angle, yellow or cyan. You really need to make another screen for the highlight white. Otherwise the underbase area will appear mottled or require too heavy a coat.
This goes back to your original question. Requires longer flash, continued heat buildup with subsequent flashes, etc. Depending on the ink you are using, you may have to thin it with a cureable reducer to get a smooth, even coat. The underbase does not have to be a solid white, just smooth and even to make subsequent colors stand out.
problem flashing underbase, colors not bonding 
