Thanks for the positive comments. While i've got a lot of prior experience working with process color, these 2 images are only 5th and 6th process color t-shirt i have ever made. Were still using the back porch to wash out and reclaim screens.
The one thing which is key to getting good halftones which includes process color is a good exposure unit. Mine is an old used Violux which i picked up on ebay which included a vacuum frame which i modified to work with screens. Including the new $150 bulb, i've probably got $500 in the exposure setup.
Other than my kickass exposure setup, everything else i have isn't anything special. We still don't have a washout room, so all of the wash out and reclaiming of screens is being done outdoors on the porch. Process color requires a minimum of 4 units and in my testing, the white underbase is required for all shirts, even white. This means i'm using 5 screens.
The dali lama image came from his holinesses web site.
http://dalailama.com/images/pgallery/printable5.jpg
This file was opened in photoshop where i performed a couple of sharpen on an unsharp mask filters to sharpen up the detail in anticipation of some loss in detail resulting from halftone printing. The background was already masked, so all i needed to do was select it and delete it. Then i told photoshop to convert it to a CMYK image using a null set of conversion numbers in the "color settings". When i convert the image RGB-> CMYK i see no change in the image on the screen. If you see a change, you don't have neutral settings. Most likely press gain has a value which needs to be zeroed.
Once again i used the magic wand to select the background, but then i hit control-shift-i to reverse the selection, then under channels i made a new alpha channel which i fill the shape with black which will become my white primer channel. To trap the white i once again select the inverse and select->modify->expand the selection a 5-15 pixels then fill the outside with white to clear off the trap area.
From this point i simply select print with preview and select to print separations, set the transfer function, set the screen frequency, set the printer to print high res b&w and click print. The output was printint in kimodesk laster transparencies. For the sake of testing consistency, i continue to use my Phaser 7700 color laser to print the film, but i recently picked up a HP 8150n tabloid size off ebay for $175 (plus 200 new toner) which looks like it will do just as well. I've also made films with inkjets and see no reason that if the proper halftone dot structure is printed, that inkjet would not also work equally as well.
From finding the image till having a full set of films in my hand took less than 10 minutes. The only real bit of magic is the transfer function, which once calculated will remain more or less a constant.
Expose, washout, register, tape and ink just like any other job.
Process color is something to be respected, not feared. Im glad to share whatever information i can. I've still got a long way to go myself.
fred