 Mesh count for white ink?
I promise I ran a search but didn't find anything on it here. I got in some Union Lo-bleed diamond white and ran it on some royal blue jerzees 50/50's today. First, I stirred the dog out of the ink to make sure it was smooth and mixed well. I printed both a front crest print and a full back print, both only white. I used 110 mesh screens and 70 dur squeegees. Did a print, flash print and then sent them through the dryer. I think they came out pretty smooth after going through the dryer, but my print was still fairly thick and a little rough to the touch even with just 2 prints. But I was wondering if there were any keys to printing good smooth whites on dark shirts? How do you get that perfect smooth white print?
Is it better to use a higher mesh count? 160 maybe?
Is it better to use the higher mesh count, and print, flash, print, flash, print, dry... and just put down thinner layers?
I've heard it works well to mist the shirt with water while it's on the platen, just before pulling the print for super smooth prints. I heard it doesn't hinder the curing process, but wasn't sure if this was the case? Is this true or myth?
Should I use any Union additives (soft hand, reducer)? My guess is no since Union's spec book doesn't recommend it.
When running test prints on old 50/50s that have been washed, they always come up super fuzzy, so I know that's a bad idea. I'll stick to pellons.
All this to ask if you can help me with the keys to printing good smooth white ink on dark shirts? |