Alright, I have read a lot here and it is almost time to order the printer and transfer paper. This is part of my business grant (was just accepted...see here), so I will not be able to test samples for my initial order.
I have read that the Image-Clip and AutoArt transfers work well with the Oki C8800N. I have seen some mixed results though.
Can all of you C8800N owners recommend which brand and model of transfer papers I will need for the following...keep in mind that I will be using my GX24 plotter when needed to trim.
1. White Shirts & Hoodies
2. Light Colored Shirts & Hoodies
3. Colored Shirts & Hoodies
4. Dark (Including Black) Shirts & Hoodies
__________________ These are my tools: Xerox Phaser 8860, Roland XC540, Graphtec FC8000-60, Hotronix STX20, Hotronix STXCAP, Corel X3 Suite, Adobe CS3 Suite
Try sending a PM to Ross (rrc62). He has done both Imageclip and Duracotton with C8800 OK. He have a lot of experience with the printer and laser transfers. He sells on the road too.
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Luis MAD Scientist JR. AKA MS2 Digital Artist. My canvas is t-shirt and my paintbrush is heat press.
__________________ These are my tools: Xerox Phaser 8860, Roland XC540, Graphtec FC8000-60, Hotronix STX20, Hotronix STXCAP, Corel X3 Suite, Adobe CS3 Suite
I've tried both papers on the C8800 laser. I find the Duracotton leaves more toner and when done correctly the paper comes clean making a little brighter image than Image Clip. The con is it still leaves "the Patch" Whites look good, and I've had some luck with ash... but other colors after a couple washings you can see the patch. I've been told it's "near invisible" but not near invisible enough - I've been doing transfers forever though and just don't like the patch.
Image Clip - if done correctly does a great job... but again, I'm not a fan of the patch. It's the first digital transfer I've seen that didn't leave the polymer square. There is more toner left on the back of the peeled sheet and initially it is not quite as bright as the duracotton, but it really doesn't lose much on washing and stays the way it appears when applied. The Duracotton seems to "dull" just a hair and ends of looking similiar to Image Clip's initial look. If you're going on white or don't mind the "patch" the DuraCotton makes a brighter transferred print. If you're like me, and dislike the patch look, the image clip is the only way to go. It's a two step process and temps and pressures have to be correct on both pressings. They both wash and wear great on 50/50's, pretty good on 100%... in both cases your press has to get to 400 degrees. I believe Image Clip softens up a little better once washed.
I'm editing this because yesterday I did several print tests comparing the two papers before I saw this thread. I checked the newly washed shirts last night, after posting this, and I'm changing my opinion on the softness. The DuraCotton, in my latest tests, is softer than the Image Clip after one washing. However, printed on anything but white t-shirts, I still had the polymer patch problem. But the DuraCotton was very soft after first washing. My bad.
Last edited by slosso; May 10th, 2009 at 09:23 AM.
Reason: new information came up
I just ordered some samples of the Image Clip...are you saying you still see the polymer patch on the white shirts? I think that would be a deal breaker for me when it comes to choosing that product. I am very particular about anything I produce.
I just ordered some samples of the Image Clip...are you saying you still see the polymer patch on the white shirts? I think that would be a deal breaker for me when it comes to choosing that product. I am very particular about anything I produce.
No, I'm saying the Image Clip works great when done according to directions. Image Clip leaves NO polymer patch. I'm saying I still see the patch on the DuraCotton transfer, not the Image Clip.
The DuraCotton is good on white but it is still noticeable. If you're particular, like myself, go with the Image Clip. It does a great job, especially on 50/50's... just make sure you get the first step correct. Good luck, I'm very happy with the Image Clip.
Hey James... I wanted to add... on the first step, the latest paper I've gotten had different directions than what Neenah papers actually puts on their website now. In the past they've said 210 degrees at 10 seconds... they have upped that to 20 seconds on their website. I find that 210 at 15 seconds works fine for me. Maybe try 15-20, but the biggest mistake is giving it too much pressure. It takes light pressure. I read one article that says you should be able to stick the tip of a piece of paper in the side of the press and pull it out without too much struggle. When I add pressure the polymer "balls up", which you don't want. I use an old (very old) air powered HIX for step #1 and run it about 18 lbs. of pressure. When I go up in pressure it gets worse. It's important to get the first step right otherwise you can actually see those little balls of polymer adhered to your shirt. You're going to get a few small specks of polymer built up, which works fine, but the goal is to get as little as possible. Hope that helps a little... again, good luck. ss
Proven Transfers For Oki C8800N 
Re: Proven Transfers For Oki C8800N 
MAD Scientist JR. AKA MS2
