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Clarifying some Kornit stuff.



 
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Old June 16th, 2007 Jun 16, 2007 7:18:42 PM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default Clarifying some Kornit stuff.

I heard the FUNNIEST thing today. I won't get into details, but I appreciate the heads up (you know who you are). So I thought I would get on here and post some cool pictures of stuff I printed on my Kornit this week, or within the past couple of days.

First of all, the print quality on darks is FANTASTIC. One thing I heard someone saying was that the Kornit prints could not compete with Flexi prints, etc. Some of the hardest colors to achieve on darks with DTG printers are blues and purples. Well, I have always believed the proof is in the pudding, so to speak, so here we go:





This next one is showing off how bright the yellow can get, and how solid the print can be when I adjust the artwork just a little bit. Keep in mind, the black in the image, the pink and the green are all EXACTLY as the client wanted them. We did not adjust these at all. To see how well the Kornit can handle gradients and fades, see my other thread.







Now are you ready for the kicker? ALL of the images I just posted were of shirts that have been WASHED THREE TIMES. I am still doing ongoing wash tests to make sure we get the best washability possible.

Additionally, someone else stated that the Kornit requires two passes to look good. This statement is particularly amusing - YES, we offer an option for a double pass with our printing services. NO, I have never had to use it yet. Every image seen above was printed SINGLE PASS white and single pass CMYK. If a Kornit owner is having to print double pass white, they are either:

a) using the old solvent inks, not the new waterbased ones, or
b) have a converted machine to use the waterbased inks, which do not work quite as well, or
c) don't know what the heck they are doing.

Many people have already been in my shop to see the machine in action. I want to remind people that my doors are always open, and you are more than welcome to come by and see for yourself. Bring some Gildan 2000 shirts and we can print a bunch of samples for you, right before your eyes!
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Old June 16th, 2007 Jun 16, 2007 7:38:16 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Clarifying some Kornit stuff.

Oh yeah, I was going to mention an amusing anecdote as well - the Kornit rep who sold me my printer came by my shop two nights ago while I was printing. He stops by from time to time to see how I am progressing. When he saw the Boaters Outlet shirts coming off the dryer, he was blown away (he had seen us struggling to figure out vibrancy tricks and secrets with that very image for the previous week). He actually BOUGHT a shirt on the spot so he could take it back to SPR to show the techs and distributors, because he has never seen anyone getting such fantastic results on black before.

My point is this - when you get a digital printer (ANY digital printer), it can often do far more than some people give it credit for. Take the time to experiment, play and learn and you can eventually surpass even the distributors or manufacturers when it comes to printing capabilities. Of course, I would still need to get the Israel techs on the phone to solve Firmware issues or pressure setting issues - but when it comes to HOW to get the best results, we are quickly gaining ground ahead of the curve.
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Old June 16th, 2007 Jun 16, 2007 10:28:34 PM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Clarifying some Kornit stuff.

Results look fantastic Justin.

A question regarding White ink from Kornit. Dupoint white ink has a tendency to melt/distort in warm washes especially if theres a a thick layer of white ink and/or excess pre-treatment on the t-shirt. I wonder if Kornit white ink experiences the same problem?
 
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Old June 17th, 2007 Jun 17, 2007 1:48:38 AM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Clarifying some Kornit stuff.

Not at all. As I mentioned, the previous samples have all been washed several times. I will try to do some more in-depth wash tests soon, and post the results! The good side of the Kornit pretreatment is this - it is almost completely water, which means that it 100% evaporates during the curing cycle.
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