just tried printing a one-off for myself using a paper called jetflex premium. this paper is for white/light garments.
paper called for a temp of 375-400 for 25-30 secs with med pressure. set mine at 380 for 25 at med. when peeled the area within the 'window' (area i didn't cut away) which didn't have ink applied had turned a dirty yellowish brown. the white tshirt itself was not affected. i like the way the ink was transfered, but can't have the yellow junk.
do i need to use my roland gx-24 to cut out the entire design, then apply a masking paper to transfer and apply to the shirt? i thought i only had to do that with opaque papers. is it the paper, the settings? help!
Don't know anything about that particular transfer paper but it is always a good idea to trim most of the excess away before heat pressing transfers. Now with that being said, I have just pressed the JPSS transfers without any trimming ( not a habit) on white Gildans and not problems with the excess showing anything. Good luck.
Terry
i don't mind cutting the excess away, that's one of the reasons i bought my cutter but, i've never tried doing the making thing before and i thought that was only necessary for opaque paper. i thought paper for lights was only suppose to 'release' the ink that was printed on it to the shirt. i'm confused.
i don't mind cutting the excess away, that's one of the reasons i bought my cutter but, i've never tried doing the making thing before and i thought that was only necessary for opaque paper. i thought paper for lights was only suppose to 'release' the ink that was printed on it to the shirt. i'm confused.
No, on the light color transfer paper also transfers the whole sheet of adhesive if not trimmed. The adhesive is what locks the ink to the fabric.
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Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee
No, on the light color transfer paper also transfers the whole sheet of adhesive if not trimmed. The adhesive is what locks the ink to the fabric.
i get it. so if having created a design with type separate from the design, i would have to trim it using my roland (with a carrier sheet?), then apply a transfer tape/masking paper to apply it to the shirt?
i guess if i had to do more than a couple shirts i'd be looking into doing plastisol transfers, correct, as the time it would take to produce these is not cost worthy.
Transfer mask is only necessary on dark transfer paper that is weedable. For light transfer paper, you will print-cut the transfer and remove the excess polymer from the transfer paper backing. Then, you simply flip the transfer paper down on to the garment and press. Since the light transfer paper is mirror image and the only thing left on the transfer paper backing is the design, you have no need to use the transfer mask.
For dark transfer paper, you first print-cut and then weed the excess polymer from the backing. Since the dark transfer paper is done face up, you need to lift the design off the transfer paper backing and move it to the shirt. In order to keep the proper spacing and location of the transfers, you place the transfer mask over the top of the dark transfer paper and squeegee it down so it will pick up the transfers / designs. Then, take the transfer mask with the design and set it on the garment. Press the shirt with the transfer mask on it. After pressing, COLD PEEL the transfer mask. You are done!
so there is weeding in both processes? i'm not getting the "remove the excess polymer backing" thing. and won't my cutter simply cut through a transfer paper or is it just a matter of adjusting down force etc?
When I was using transfer papers, I just trimmed with scissors close to the design, to get rid of most of it. I trimmed the whole paper, not just the polymer.
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Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee
problem with using inkjet for white/lights 
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