I havent been getting good results with jpss. After I peel hot the paper is tough to peel which causes fiber lift. I then need to repress. I have used silicon sheet, wax paper, and teflon sheet and 99% of the time the ink transfers onto the sheet when I repress? What do you do? Im thinking about start using ironall again. Let me know, C.
I always get some ink transfer on the teflon, but it doesn't change the imprinted image on the garment. When you do your second press and the ink comes off, is is altering the appearance of the image in a negative way? If so, can you attach pictures?
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no chang in image that I can see but I have to either wipe off my teflon or throw the silicon away every time. I also have the ink transfer on bottom platen when I press transfer on front and then the back and It gets on my bottom platen of press and I have to keep wiping? Maybe shirt is ok but it is getting a to be a nuisance
Yes, the ink you see on the teflon is normal it should not change the image on the garment. Just make sure you wipe off your teflon so you don't ruin the next transfer you do with it.
Are you sure your using JET PRO SOFT STRETCH ? Maybe your using too much ink? I have no problem with jpss. I lift the heat press and grab the shirt and start lightly stretching it till most of the sheet has released and then pull it away. Never need repressing of shirt and transfer of ink to things that shouldn't get in. I use parchment paper for baking and its cheep but just to have a barrier to avoid possible mess ups that might(hasen't happened yet) happen to mess up my expensive heat press. Are you sure of you heat presses temperature? I also use a moderately heavy pressure. Thats all I can think of . Good luck.
Genuine jpss from coastal. My time and temp is 25-30 sec @ 350 degrees. I would guess medium/heavy pressuer. It is always sticky!!! I tried stretching shirt immediately after pressing to remove paper but the ink doesnt lay down right and looks splotchy.
One thing(as long as you know your heat press is accurate) is the instructions tha came with mine said to use 390 degrees for 30 seconds. Try upping the temp. I did have a slight bit of difficulty onse when I rushed and use it at 370 degrees so that may be the problem. Good luck. Its some good paper (JPSS) and I think you'll work it out.
Hi carlos
Well i got a lot of JPSS only a week ago and got to testing it.
On my first go i used medium preasure and 20 seconds @ 360 and it press and came out quite ok, but noticed a bit of pull when removing the sheet when finished.
I then upped the temp to 390 and medium heavy presure and for 30 seconds and it worked a treat.
I just use a teflon sheet on over the aeria been pressed, and that works fine for me.
One thing i have noticed, is that a lot of people seem to try out the streach quality more or less after they have printed it, i would say on a personal view to not do it.
The top is still sealing the print in and so you can break up the process if you do this and end up with slight breaks in it, IE cracking.
On tests, i`ve got some of the new Iron On paper which i`m told is the new fixed sheets, and if i`m to be honest, i cant see no difference with the iron on to the JPSS.
Still doing some tests thoe and will post when i`m finished as awaiting some of the new just for darks iron on.
One thing i have noticed, is that a lot of people seem to try out the streach quality more or less after they have printed it, i would say on a personal view to not do it.
The top is still sealing the print in and so you can break up the process if you do this and end up with slight breaks in it, IE cracking.
The folks stretch it while the transfer is hot to open the weave so the tranfer does not dry/cure with the weave closed. Once they open it up with the stretch, they re-press it to re-set it into the fiber.
If you've gotten cracking with the JPSS, it could be because you only stretched and didn't re-press to reset the ink/polymer.
Quote:
On tests, i`ve got some of the new Iron On paper which i`m told is the new fixed sheets, and if i`m to be honest, i cant see no difference with the iron on to the JPSS.
Still doing some tests thoe and will post when i`m finished as awaiting some of the new just for darks iron on.
When you say Iron on paper, do you mean Ironall, Jim? Thanks. (Second thread I've seen with that name and I'm really curious what paper you mean.)
I used to use Ironall, and there is no difference in a freshly printed image. The difference for me came out of the washing machine. I did find I could stop the Ironall light from fading by using a Jerzees HW 5050 shirt (29), but the others faded, and some miserably. I tested FOLT, Anvil, Gildans, Hanes, the Jerzees of course.
Are you using a new version of Ironall paper, or some of the new batch of the regular old version? Thanks.
The folks stretch it while the transfer is hot to open the weave so the tranfer does not dry/cure with the weave closed. Once they open it up with the stretch, they re-press it to re-set it into the fiber.
If you've gotten cracking with the JPSS, it could be because you only stretched and didn't re-press to reset the ink/polymer.
When you say Iron on paper, do you mean Ironall, Jim? Thanks. (Second thread I've seen with that name and I'm really curious what paper you mean.)
I used to use Ironall, and there is no difference in a freshly printed image. The difference for me came out of the washing machine. I did find I could stop the Ironall light from fading by using a Jerzees HW 5050 shirt (29), but the others faded, and some miserably. I tested FOLT, Anvil, Gildans, Hanes, the Jerzees of course.
Are you using a new version of Ironall paper, or some of the new batch of the regular old version? Thanks.
Thanks for the reasoning behind repressing JPSS. I now will try it, even though I don't have a problem with it now. And the "fuzz" look on my first shirt is gone. The wife said she just threw it in with a load of whites and added bleach. Looks great again
Thanks for the reasoning behind repressing JPSS. I now will try it, even though I don't have a problem with it now. And the "fuzz" look on my first shirt is gone. The wife said she just threw it in with a load of whites and added bleach. Looks great again
Thanks to you, too, Terry. Recently, I used your tip. I burnt my fingers trying to peel the JPSS (again, as usual) and in trying to avoid getting burnt, I took too long. I said, dang this, I re-heated the shirt, picked it up and stretched it with the backer paper on. Worked much easier, but I think I have to peel the remainder faster than what I did.
Hi kelly.
Thanks for pointing out why a lot of people streach the garment and then re-press, as that clears that up for me now
The paper i mean is Iron All for darks, and then the same type Iron All for whites.
Works a treat for me, and i prefear this new inproved (from what the seller in UK told me it was) and i tryed the old Iron All for darks and had some issues like others did, but this new inproved one on 100% cotton works realy well, and i just ordered another 50 sheets
Its all trial and error i suppose, and i have now gone through a lot of the papers, even the so called self weeding one, which i have to say after several trys i gave up on it it
Customers seem to realy like the Iron All paper and the feel and so the way i look at it is, if the customer is happy then i`m happy
I still use a a lot of Vinyl thoe for tops and such.
Thanks for writing, Jim. I'm an Ironall Dark user over here. I love it. When it hit those QC issues those last few months, I realized how vulnerable I was not having a back up. I am going to test the JetWear. I hear it's a bit thicker, but still makes folks happy. During the QC failure of Ironall Dark, I also picked up a cutter to avoid being so dependant on these dark papers, seeing how a QC mess up could really leave me hanging like that.
I am so, so happy to hear you got the *good* Ironall Dark. When it does not have QC issues, it's awesome, I agree. Have a great weekend, and thanks again for taking the time to write back. Continued good luck to you...
what do you use to repress jpss?? 
