Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
I'm fairly new to this forum and to the printing industry (t-shirts).
I have a Sublimation System with Epson-R1410 Printer, Roland vinyl cutter, GeoKnight A3 heat press and a Oki c810dn.
I want to know what's the best method to do my transfers onto T-shirts to get the best possible quality and durability.
I've read some posts on this forum and its of great help, you guys are very knowledgable.
I've read about ImageClip, DuraCotton etc... the 2way process, and how it amost feel/look like screen printing.
I want to know how it comes out on white,light and dark, black t-shirts.
Can somebody please post pics (maybe close ups) of t-shirts they have printed already, these transfers.
I'm fairly new to this forum and to the printing industry (t-shirts).
I have a Sublimation System with Epson-R1410 Printer, Roland vinyl cutter, GeoKnight A3 heat press and a Oki c810dn.
I want to know what's the best method to do my transfers onto T-shirts to get the best possible quality and durability.
I've read some posts on this forum and its of great help, you guys are very knowledgable.
I've read about ImageClip, DuraCotton etc... the 2way process, and how it amost feel/look like screen printing.
I want to know how it comes out on white,light and dark, black t-shirts.
Can somebody please post pics (maybe close ups) of t-shirts they have printed already, these transfers.
Thank you
Fiekyville
Imageclip for laser is durable wash after wash. It is not made for dark. It has to be used with opaque material to use it for dark. Neenah is coming out with Imageclip for dark pretty soon after it has been introduced in a trade show.
There are two versions of Imageclip for light. One is the laser version and the other is for inkjet. The laser version has some limitations as far as very light, gradient or photo images. The image needs to have enough toner density for the polymer from the polymer coated paper to bond on. The inkjet version will work just fine with those type of images. However, inkjet prints are not as vibrant as laser print. It is not the fault of the transfer paper it is just the way inkjet prints turns out.
Imageclip for inkjet is as durable as JPSS. The fell and look are the same before and after wash. The difference is no polymer background with Imageclip. Both versions are two step process and a bit tricky to use. Once you find the numbers and settings for your press the result will be consistent. The price is not much higher than JPSS. The amount of time spent on trimming JPSS can be eliminated using Imageclip and makes up the difference in price. Both versions works on any pastel and slightly dark color fabric where JPSS sometimes leaves visible polymer window on some of the pastel color.
Imageclip for laser with opaque
Imageclip for laser (lost the light background color)
Hope that is enough pictures. I got more. Click on the small thumbnail to enlarge the image.
i just want to know what will best suit me and my designs, like using laser with ImageClip on whites and mayb inkjet for dark... i just want to have a soft feel and it must be durable.
other then that, is my Oki comapible with these type of transfers ?
I would appreciate it if you can send me more pics, with description of what printer,ink and paper you used (if its not too much work).
My email is:
Oki C810 should be good for Imageclip. Imageclip will work with oil and oiless fuser type laser printer. Just have to use the heaviest or thickest media setting and feed the transfer through the multi purpose try one sheet at a time. Also use the rear tray for output that way the paper has straight path.
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Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website
Last edited by Lnfortun; October 17th, 2009 at 01:51 PM.
Hi LnFortun
Thanks for your reply, very informative. just thought u can send more pics see that you said you got more.
Ive seen other name brand T-shirts, like Metalica, where the print is onto the shirt, u can feel it, that's def not screen printing, is that DTG printed or what transfers is that.
Luis, do you use plastisol at all, or do you use inkjet/laser only? When does the transfer begin to peel or crack in your experience. 20 washes, 50... Thanks
Luis, do you use plastisol at all, or do you use inkjet/laser only? When does the transfer begin to peel or crack in your experience. 20 washes, 50... Thanks
I use to do plastisol with custom and stock transfer. The problem with plastisol is you have to buy a minimum quantity and what you can't sell you absorb the losses. The plastisol peels and cracks just as bad or even works than polymer transfer. Another thing is you are at the mercy of the supplier. If the supplier mess up the transfer again you take the losses especially when you are trying to meet the delivery and winding up using a messed up transfer. I have gotten transfer that the registration was very bad and yet the vendor sent it anyway.
If I do the transfer myself I have better control and I can create the design without having to meet the spec. of the supplier to make custom transfer.
So I have been using inkjet or laser transfer. Mostly laser. When the transfer is done and pressed right it will last about 15 to 20 washes or better. Again plastisol will crack even before that. I have shirts that are 5 years old and the image are still good. Not cracked. They are faded some as can be expected.
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Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website
I use to do plastisol with custom and stock transfer. The problem with plastisol is you have to buy a minimum quantity and what you can't sell you absorb the losses. The plastisol peels and cracks just as bad or even works than polymer transfer. Another thing is you are at the mercy of the supplier. If the supplier mess up the transfer again you take the losses especially when you are trying to meet the delivery and winding up using a messed up transfer. I have gotten transfer that the registration was very bad and yet the vendor sent it anyway.
If I do the transfer myself I have better control and I can create the design without having to meet the spec. of the supplier to make custom transfer.
So I have been using inkjet or laser transfer. Mostly laser. When the transfer is done and pressed right it will last about 15 to 20 washes or better. Again plastisol will crack even before that. I have shirts that are 5 years old and the image are still good. Not cracked. They are faded some as can be expected.
Hi Luis, you say you use inkjet or laser but Mostly laser. Why do you prefer laser over inkjet, and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each machine? Thanks for your help.
Hi Luis, you say you use inkjet or laser but Mostly laser. Why do you prefer laser over inkjet, and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each machine? Thanks for your help.
Simply because laser is not as finicky as inkjet. If the inkjet printer happens to clog in the middle of production you are stock trying to clean it up so it will be functional. So there is money and time wasted once that happens. Not to mention ruined transfers. I use inkjet for artwork that the laser transfer will not work like light color, gradient and photo. The laser toner seems to be more opaque and vibrant compared to translucent inkjet ink. Both inkjet and laser are durable depending on the brand name and if its done right.
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Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website
Laser heat transfers - Quality & Durability 
CorelDRAW macro author
