Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
Hello:
Although I have more than 15 years of experience in Screen Printing on t-shirts, I want to start making Plastisol Heat Transfers, and I really don't know where to start, so here is a few questions for you guys:
1) Which Ink brand has the best quality of Plastisol Inks for transfers, ( I understand that this is different ink, not the same for direct printing.)
2) What is the best Transfer Paper for plastisol inks? I will like to have both, glossy and mate finish.
3) Do I have to use Powder adhesive? or is there a "Screenable" adhesive?
My specialty is 4 color process, and I want to do the same, but on heat transfers.
We just jumped in and started printing them with the Union ink we used for t-shirts. This was over a decade ago and I don't remember the paper. We did use an adhesive powder. It wasn't as big a deal as it seemed, it just took some experimentation. Keep track of what you do and make sure to test the shirts thoroughly before committing to customer orders.
I finally worked out Plastisol transfers.
I needed a solution for my regular customers that would call and need a few more t-shirts without inking up a screen for 3 shirts, answer Plastisol transfers.
I spent months reading dozens of tutorials on making transfers and NONE OF THEM WORKED.
I actual called a guy that sold transfer supplies and he spent an hour explain how to do it and then when I ask if he had every did any himself, he said "no, not actually".
So I ending up figuring it out by trail and error, lots of error. I only do 1 and 2 color transfers, but this is my process.
First, I have only been successful using standard Plastisol ink on Hot Peel transfers. I ran in too many problems with cold peel and hot-split.
I now buy my paper in bulk, but you can buy a small quanity from Silscreeningsupplies.com. You want the Transal premium hot peel paper, it comes in 15" X 15" sheets.
You will need the adhesive power too.
Make your screen in reverse and print your design on the paper, I just use a standard 110 screen. Don't flash.
Take your paper off the platten and powder, use something like a pizza box, shake off the excess powder and then cure the transfer like you would a shirt, but don't over cure. Let cool. Heat your press to 370 degrees and use medium pressure for 10 second, then peel.
This works for me, hope it helps.
I finally worked out Plastisol transfers.
I needed a solution for my regular customers that would call and need a few more t-shirts without inking up a screen for 3 shirts, answer Plastisol transfers.
I spent months reading dozens of tutorials on making transfers and NONE OF THEM WORKED.
I actual called a guy that sold transfer supplies and he spent an hour explain how to do it and then when I ask if he had every did any himself, he said "no, not actually".
So I ending up figuring it out by trail and error, lots of error. I only do 1 and 2 color transfers, but this is my process.
First, I have only been successful using standard Plastisol ink on Hot Peel transfers. I ran in too many problems with cold peel and hot-split.
I now buy my paper in bulk, but you can buy a small quanity from Silscreeningsupplies.com. You want the Transal premium hot peel paper, it comes in 15" X 15" sheets.
You will need the adhesive power too.
Make your screen in reverse and print your design on the paper, I just use a standard 110 screen. Don't flash.
Take your paper off the platten and powder, use something like a pizza box, shake off the excess powder and then cure the transfer like you would a shirt, but don't over cure. Let cool. Heat your press to 370 degrees and use medium pressure for 10 second, then peel.
This works for me, hope it helps.
sorry for bumping this thread.i just started pressing plastisol transfers and i would like to know if i still need to cure it or not anymore?if i do,can i cure it with another series of pressing?some edges were peeled off after peeling of the transfer paper and smudges from my first presses were a bit of a downer.
also im pressing at 385 deg* with high pressure for 10 seconds and some inks arent fully transferred from the paper to the shirt from a hot split.am i doing anything wrong?btw im using a hotronix auto open 16x20 press and im sure the temp and pressure read are pretty accurate.
i hope someone would be able to give me some pointers on these issues.
Last edited by Iprint04; August 17th, 2010 at 04:14 AM.
Reason: added some questions
sorry for bumping this thread.i just started pressing plastisol transfers and i would like to know if i still need to cure it or not anymore?if i do,can i cure it with another series of pressing?some edges were peeled off after peeling of the transfer paper and smudges from my first presses were a bit of a downer.
also im pressing at 385 deg* with high pressure for 10 seconds and some inks arent fully transferred from the paper to the shirt from a hot split.am i doing anything wrong?btw im using a hotronix auto open 16x20 press and im sure the temp and pressure read are pretty accurate.
i hope someone would be able to give me some pointers on these issues.
What temp are you curing the transfers at? You only want to flash the transfer and not cure it at the normal 300-320 temp. It will get its final cure when you press it on the shirt.
What temp are you curing the transfers at? You only want to flash the transfer and not cure it at the normal 300-320 temp. It will get its final cure when you press it on the shirt.
im not really making these transfers.i bought it from starline pacific.so does that mean i dont need to cure it at all after pressing?
I've never had any success with hotsplit, I got the same result as you. I only use HotPeel. I've been told that if you use the plastisol ink made for transfers then cold peel and hotsplit will work, but I've learn, NEVER TAKE INSTRUCTIONS FROM ANYONE THAT HASN'T ACTUALLY DID IT THEMSELVES!
No you dont have to cure a shirt after the transfer is pressed on. The curing happens during the pressing.
thanks for the answer that definitely makes sense.also if you could also point out the difference between hot split and hot peel that would be very helpful as well.
@cybtec - i feel you bro.but these transfers were actually on their walls as demo products.i was amazed actually so i gave it a try 'til i hit a bottom today with these ones.i will get myself a temp gun soon to check my platen's temp just to make sure they are really at around 380 to 385 degrees.i have a suspicion though that maybe my pressure reader isnt that accurate at all.since its really easy to press at high pressure which is at 9 unless hotronix' are made just like that.
I finally worked out Plastisol transfers.
I needed a solution for my regular customers that would call and need a few more t-shirts without inking up a screen for 3 shirts, answer Plastisol transfers.
I spent months reading dozens of tutorials on making transfers and NONE OF THEM WORKED.
I actual called a guy that sold transfer supplies and he spent an hour explain how to do it and then when I ask if he had every did any himself, he said "no, not actually".
So I ending up figuring it out by trail and error, lots of error. I only do 1 and 2 color transfers, but this is my process.
First, I have only been successful using standard Plastisol ink on Hot Peel transfers. I ran in too many problems with cold peel and hot-split.
I now buy my paper in bulk, but you can buy a small quanity from Silscreeningsupplies.com. You want the Transal premium hot peel paper, it comes in 15" X 15" sheets.
You will need the adhesive power too.
Make your screen in reverse and print your design on the paper, I just use a standard 110 screen. Don't flash.
Take your paper off the platten and powder, use something like a pizza box, shake off the excess powder and then cure the transfer like you would a shirt, but don't over cure. Let cool. Heat your press to 370 degrees and use medium pressure for 10 second, then peel.
This works for me, hope it helps.
When you say don't flash. But then cure but don't over cure at what degrees do you recommend? Also will these transfer sheets work on polyester?
I use the "french paper", (T-75) but I only do 1 color's at the moment. I use 110 mesh for prints that will go on dark garments, and 160 mesh for prints that will go on light. Coat the screens 1-1, use the rounder side of your scoop coater on the print side.. After the print, coat with adhesive, shake off excess, then run through the dryer on a much faster setting (I like the temp around 200 but not too much higher).
On the heat press, I press firm for 30 seconds. You can hot split the french paper but for higher opacity on darks I cold peel. Be sure to flick the paper to get rid of any stray adhesive crystals as a clump will show on dark shirts.
I haven't done any fine detail prints using this method, or tried multiple colors yet, but I know it can be done, just watch this video of a 9-color transfer being printed: pretty good stuff!
When you say don't flash. But then cure but don't over cure at what degrees do you recommend? Also will these transfer sheets work on polyester?
100% poly is a pain because of dye migration, but if you print transfers with low bleed inks my guess is it should be okay? Don't quote me on that though.
I want to print Plastisol Heat Transfers 
Re: I want to print Plastisol Heat Transfers 
