Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
[I realize there is already an old thread by Chani when she discovered that JPSS could be peeled cold, but this is a little different.]
First off, holla if anybody else out there has given JPSS cold peel a try.
Sometimes I have issues with transfers where the design has a lot of black ink and I can't figure out where the problem lies. Sometimes it will look fine; sometimes it will have minuscule spots where the ink doesn't transfer; and sometimes it will transfer so badly that the shirt can't be redeemed by a fabric marker.
So yesterday I decided to give cold peel another try. I could see a slight ghosting on the paper but all of the ink transferred. As stated in Chani's thread the hand is unbelievably smooth, but the polymer almost has a waxy look (obviously this is why it is smooth to the touch). If I remember correctly, Chani did a wash test on the cold-peel and unfortunately the transfer cracked slightly – a problem we determined came from not being able to stretch the shirt immediately after pressing.
Stay with me because here's where I tried something new ...
After peeling the JPSS cold I put the shirt back on the press, covered it with parchment paper (Teflon sheet would work also), re-pressed for 8 seconds, and then stretched it. It looked great. The hand? Well, it seems to be slightly better than straight-up peeling hot.
Anybody else tried this? Hopefully I will have time to do a wash test today so stay tuned .....
I know not many agree with the cold peel but that is the way I use my JPSS. It works great every time and so far I have not experienced any cracking. I'm gonna try your way for the purpose of a softer hand. Thanks for the tip!
It works great every time and so far I have not experienced any cracking.
Actually I just went back and re-read the original thread about cracking with cold-peel and it was because she washed it in cold water. She had good results washing it in hot water. My bad ... my memory is not so good.
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I'm gonna try your way for the purpose of a softer hand.
It's definitely not as soft as the cold peel, but it was softer than the hot peel. I'm pretty sure it's because the shirt fibers don't get all jacked up during the original peel.
I am interested to see if there is any difference in color once washed. The test shirt is in the dryer right now so I will be back with photos/results later .....
Now you've got me thinking, Rhonda. I think you're right when you saw the "gritty" feel, that's what I call it, that happens right after a hot peel is from the fibers getting all jacked up () when peeling.
I do the stretch and re-press, and I always felt like the re-press helped smooth things out a bit.... but, I peel my teflon hot after the re-press. Next time, I am going to try to let my teflon cool before peeling next time, see what happens. It's similar in theory to your idea (and literally born of it) just done a little differently. I'll let you know if I get a smoother hand as well with that experiment.
Thanks for bringing this up again, and for taking it all a step further. I really miss the smooth silky hand of Ironall (nothing else, haha), and if you've got us back on the road of getting a smooth hand with JPSS {{big hugs}} because I always wished for that with JPSS. Then, JPSS would be 'perfect'. (To me.)
I guess I should start by saying that I used Gildan 100% Ultra Cotton.
The transfer was split diagonally and I did not trim it at all.
The top part was peeled hot and stretched while the bottom part was peeled cold, pressed again, and then stretched.
The shirt was washed for 20 minutes in hot water and then dried on high heat for 80 minutes. It was washed and dried along with towels and other clothes so it really took a beating.
(Sorry about the color difference between the pre- and post-wash photos, but I took them at different times during the day.)
Here's what the paper looked like after pressing:
Here's what both looked like before washing/drying:
(see the little white dot by the 'r' in the photo below? That's where the ink didn't transfer during the hot peel ... which is the whole reason behind this exercise. )
Here's what both looked like after washing/drying:
After washing/drying both appear a little faded because of the white cotton fibers sticking up through the transfer, so there is really no difference visually ...
BUT the hand of the cold peel is definitely softer than the hot peel.
Next time, I am going to try to let my teflon cool before peeling next time, see what happens. It's similar in theory to your idea (and literally born of it) just done a little differently. I'll let you know if I get a smoother hand as well with that experiment.
That's interesting, Kelly ... I never thought of doing that!
I have also been peeling hot and then re-pressing with a Teflon sheet – which does help with the hand – but my biggest issue is wasting shirts and transfer paper because all of the ink doesn't transfer sometimes.
I never thought of that either, you made me think of it...
I don't think I can see a difference on the hot and cold peel this time. I think in the last this was tried, we could see a waxy film in the pics. I see literally nothing that I think I can detect in these pics.
I wonder if Chani had more success with the hot wash, bc it heated the transfer up again and the washing machine action gently pulled it while it was hot..????
Doesn't really matter, it's just a curious thought, looks like you are cracking the case on Cold Peel, nice work Detective.
Pfft, I recently had a banding issue from heck with my c88, and used about 8 pieces of JPSS for one shirt trying to solve it. Wierdest thing was it didn't show on plain paper, only JPSS - thank you very much. The amount of ink I used was unbearable. I was literally having mind melt trying to figure out how to avoid anymore waste. I do hope this solves your issues with losing supplies. After a while, will you let me know if it turned out to be the answer for you?
I don't think I can see a difference on the hot and cold peel this time. I think in the last this was tried, we could see a waxy film in the pics. I see literally nothing that I think I can detect in these pics.
Right! The second pressing gets rid of the waxy film. I'm not really sure if it melts into the shirt or if it transfers to the cover sheet, but it definitely goes away.
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Pfft, I recently had a banding issue from heck with my c88, and used about 8 pieces of JPSS for one shirt trying to solve it. Wierdest thing was it didn't show on plain paper, only JPSS - thank you very much.
LOL ... that figures!!!!!
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After a while, will you let me know if it turned out to be the answer for you?
Will do ... I'm thinking I will continue with this extra step – at least with the designs that have lots of black – as those are the ones I have the most problems with.
I just have a quick question here.
When you mention "cold" peel just what is cold.
Is it waiting a few seconds or actually removing the garment and letting it cool a minute or so.
Reason for asking?
My JPSS that is in rolls from Coastal will not cold peel, this stuff is fused right back together.
I just have a quick question here.
When you mention "cold" peel just what is cold.
Is it waiting a few seconds or actually removing the garment and letting it cool a minute or so.
Reason for asking?
My JPSS that is in rolls from Coastal will not cold peel, this stuff is fused right back together.
HI, "Cold Peel" does in fact mean letting the transfer and shirt cool off after press. I really like the feel of cold peel on Jet Pro. I have gotten some cracking from this method as well as some close to perfect results. What I started to do was, use a warm peel instead of a complete cold peel.
Let it be fully understood that Stretching the shirt before and after press makes a huge difference on "cracking". What I do is this:
1. Stretch the heck out of the shirt
2. Pre Press the entire shirt in sectiong for about 6 sec. each section.
3. Fit my design where it needs to be placed with my T-Square It
4. Press for just about 30 sec at @ 375 degrees using me teflon over the shirt for the initial press.
5. Reamove the shirt and stand in front of the ac for about 15 seconds to allow the shirt to start cooling.
6. Instead of peeling off hte transfer, I grab the sides of the shirt and do a Second Stretch. This does 2 things for me. 1, it stretches the shirt again for the second press and it makes the paper lift away from the shirt. Very easy to remove.
7. I then position my shirt back under the press, smooth the transfer out and place a sheet of parchment paper over the entire design and repress for about 7-10 seconds.
8. After the press I let the shirt cool down for about 15 sec, and peel the parchment paper away slowly beginning at one of the corner edges.
9. Stretch again and I'm good..
No fading and no Cracking
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I haven't tried the cold peel method yet. Sounds like I need to.....
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JPSS Cold Peel :: Revisited (with photos) 
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