Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
In case anybody was wondering i was just using the plain ol dye ink that comes with my printer im gonna be using some pigment inks here next week ill keep ya posted
Hi Manny, and thank you for posting what ink you were using. The 1400 comes with Claria ink. Is that what you bought from Staples, too, the Claria carts? I am sorry to say, Claria ink has been shown to work with JPSS, so if the pigment ink does not solve your issue, try one of the other suggestions listed in the thread. I have my fingers crossed for you, tho, that the ink fixes it, ya never know!
JPSS is one transfer paper that is able to work with dye based inks as well. However, that may very depending on the brand of dye ink (I'm not an ink guy so don't hold me to that.... )
We were at the end of a job this weekend and ran out of the pigment ink in our C88 with like 4 transfers left to print and already 1 hour behind schedule. So, I tried running the JPSS through our Brother inkjet with Dye ink and they looked great. Actually, they looked better than the pigment ink in the C88 which I did not color adjust. But, I can't comment on how well they are going to hold up in the wash. We were up against it and had to finish the job and made a decision based on what I had read on this forum so we'll just have to wait and see how it goes...
Yes I do pre press for about 15 seconds, I did notice that my heat press turns on and off to regulate the heat, i noticed my heat press stayed off for a while maybe the temp got to high , whenever I do my 1st or 2nd shirt they come out great, but as I continue my shirts keep getting worse. My heat press is a cheapo from e-bay , I think that might be a issue also. I think its an asian model.
Hi Fellas, would you guys mind sharing what brand/name of the ink you each used so others know not to buy/try it? Thanks so much, and hopefully Manny, your problem is solved. Best regards.
-Kelly
Yes, Kelly that's a great request. I purchased an Epson C120 and simply use the ink that comes along with it. Is there something "better" I should be considering? I also purchased the IronAll and JPSS transfers (hopefully getting them today) so maybe I'll see a difference in the image color from the test one I did the other day. The other one was a bit bland and I just attributed to the "over the counter - regular iron-on transfer".
-regina :-)
We were at the end of a job this weekend and ran out of the pigment ink in our C88 with like 4 transfers left to print and already 1 hour behind schedule. So, I tried running the JPSS through our Brother inkjet with Dye ink and they looked great. Actually, they looked better than the pigment ink in the C88 which I did not color adjust. But, I can't comment on how well they are going to hold up in the wash. We were up against it and had to finish the job and made a decision based on what I had read on this forum so we'll just have to wait and see how it goes...
Hiya John,
You are so right about finding out if "this or that" dye ink works, because it's all realively new compared to pigment ink use.
Mrdavid started a thread to make a list of dye inks that do work with JPSS, so that folks with dye printers can refer to the list to see if their dye had been tested.
If their dye wasn't on the list, they knew they were the first to give it a go. Let me go find that thread. I entered my Canon Pixma ink in the thread.
If your ink works with JPSS, will you add it to the list? On second thought, lol, even if it doesn't work, will you post that info too, so folks with your same ink know it's not a viable option? Thanks a million, John.
PS: I see the title says with pic, and feel free to add one if you have the time to do so, but if not, it's probably just more important to enter the name of another ink that works. I did a pic, too, but I had already had one on file from another post. Thx again!
That may be a little long. Jack from Alpha Supply had a great way of explaining this. Heat boils at 212*, so a heat press at 375* will remove the moisture from fabric in a few seconds. I pre-press for 5-7 seconds, myself.
Quote:
I did notice that my heat press turns on and off to regulate the heat, i noticed my heat press stayed off for a while
A press operates like an oven, cycles on and off during the heat process. With my press, too, when it hits the temp it's set for, the light goes out. When I am pressing, the light comes back on when it is re-heating itself to maintain the temperature. This is normal, and the temp should only very by a very few degrees during the whole process.
Sidenote: Two things steal the heat from the upper platen: the lower platen and the fabric. The lower platen steals the most on the first shirt *when it is not Pre-heated*. Some folks have lost/ruined a first shirt due to the loss of heat to a cold lower platen.
Pre-pressing a shirt to remove moisture knocks off two birds with one stone:
- Removes pecky moisture from the shirt.
- Pre-heats that lower platen for you.
Quote:
maybe the temp got to high , whenever I do my 1st or 2nd shirt they come out great, but as I continue my shirts keep getting worse. My heat press is a cheapo from e-bay , I think that might be a issue also. I think its an asian model.
This is a red flag. No matter where a press comes from: China, Asia, USA, Germany, it should hold its heat consistently. It should not fluctuate wildly. During pressing for two hours, I cannot see a difference from shirt to shirt. Each is like the one before, and the light cycles on, and cycles off, over and over during the process.
I think we are back to this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by girlzndollz
....... can you verify your press is running at the correct temp? If it's not, you'll have issues .... .... verify your press temp (with and IR gun from Harbor Freight) .... Best regards, Kelly
There are two main functions of a press, consist temperature and pressure. Your press is showing the signs of not holding it's temp properly, and that will cause a ruckus with your finished product. I'd take a look at that temp to be sure you are okay there. I felt a little pesky myself still asking about the ink, but now I am glad I did, bc this info you just gave may be a big clue why you are having troubles. If it is not the ink, it could really be the press temp. Best regards to you, Manny -Kelly
Last edited by Girlzndollz; July 21st, 2008 at 08:01 AM.
Yes, Kelly that's a great request. I purchased an Epson C120 and simply use the ink that comes along with it. Is there something "better" I should be considering? I also purchased the IronAll and JPSS transfers (hopefully getting them today) so maybe I'll see a difference in the image color from the test one I did the other day. The other one was a bit bland and I just attributed to the "over the counter - regular iron-on transfer".
-regina :-)
Well, I haven't plugged in my own c120 yet, but do use the same Durabrite inks in my C88+. Using the OEM carts is expensive, and there is another issue that lurks around the Durabrite ink: some folks experience color shifting under the press. I don't, and never have.
With color shifting, an image will print fine, but grays or other colors will turn olive or purply during the actual press. Folks say the colors return to normal during the washing process, but it's hard to sell that to a customer.
For those that switched -some went to the ink in this post by Melissa/AngelicEndeavors, they are re-fill carts: Epson Dura-Brite Inks
That post explains alot about the color shifting. Melissa was so frustrated by it, and she put alot of research into her choice of inks, bc she didn't want any further issues. She hasn't been around in a while, but her last posts said she Loved her inks now. I'm guessing no new is good news, bc she's probably printing and pressing, rather than being here looking for another new ink, lol. BTW, there are quite a few suppliers of re-fill carts and inks out there.
Other people move to bulk ink to save the most money. Some ink names are Everlast and Magic Mix. I don't use the bulks, so someone else would have to give you a low down if you want them, but those names I gave you will give you something to search the forum with to bring you to more info.
Using Epson carts are the most expensive way to re-fill your printer with ink. Re-fill carts save less money than bulk, but bulk has more issues with clogging. If you do a search on "bulk ink clogging" you'll quickly see what I mean. Printing everyday solves the issue, so higher volume printers use it without much ado, if any. When bulks sit for a bit is when the problem starts with clogged nozzles.
Figuring out your budget for supplies and your daily usage will help you decide what process would be best for you.
Best regards.
Last edited by Girlzndollz; July 21st, 2008 at 11:01 AM.
Yes I do pre press for about 15 seconds, I did notice that my heat press turns on and off to regulate the heat, i noticed my heat press stayed off for a while maybe the temp got to high , whenever I do my 1st or 2nd shirt they come out great, but as I continue my shirts keep getting worse. My heat press is a cheapo from e-bay , I think that might be a issue also. I think its an asian model.
I have a sunie heat press(asian model)and it fluctuates between 5-10 degrees (yes wow)never had an issue with it besides the time i was experimenting with the dye ink (claria ink). I used 2 (JPSS) and the results came out nasty so i switched inks to pigment and that solved my problem. Another thing you might want to check is the pressure on your press that could be a problem as well,but like KELLY said you should check your press with that (IR unit they sell at Harbor Freight). Goodluck..
Manny, which model press do you have? Some folks have a great model from Ebay that works fine. Some others bought models that gave them troubles. The folks got together and started a thread on it, so they all could have someplace to sort out the models that worked well, and the models that didn't. Hoping to make it easier for everyone to shop the Ebay presses, bc not all presses are bad of Ebay. I'm one of the people that think you can get a good deal on a good press off Ebay, but I'd buy one of the models recommended in the thread. Do you want a link to see if you press is in there, as one of the goodies or the baddies? Let me know.
A swing in temp of 5*-10* isn't bad, especially the 5*, but some presses have been found to be off by 20*+ with the IR Guns. If you have a press that is far off, you can just adjust for it by building it in to the setting when you set the temp. But what probably causes More concern is that your press temp changes over the course of time that your are pressing shirts. You said your first shirts are fine, but then next get ruined.
Quote:
Originally Posted by goonhand
whenever I do my 1st or 2nd shirt they come out great, but as I continue my shirts keep getting worse.
It seems the press either cools and stays cooled, or heats up too much and stay hot. But it is not staying within a variance, it seems. I am sure my press goes up and down by a few degrees during pressing, but as long as it is staying within a zone, that is fine. Yours is starting in a zone, and leaving it for good. That's the idea I got from your post. An IR gun will help you find out where it Starts, and then let you know where it Goes.... lol...
I might guess if your first shirts come out great, then it's probably not your ink. Your ink would fail you every time if it was the ink. Ambitious said he never got a good print with his Claria, but you did get great prints, but only the first few, if it was your ink, you wouldn't get those great one or two prints, so I am seriously thinking it is morely likely something with your press, in your case. Just a thought from looking at the info you posted, I'm sure through trial and error, tho, you'll figure it out. Good luck to you, Manny.
Last edited by Girlzndollz; July 21st, 2008 at 11:22 AM.
Re: Problems with my tranfers 
