Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
Hi, I'm new to the t-shirt iron-on thing, so simple explanations work great. I do not know what type of transfer paper to buy, so help is appreciated and thanks in advance
Here's my situation: I have light colored shirts (green, blue, white, gray) that I'd like to print on. http://i38.tinypic.com/2s8ogo2.jpg
However, my designs are not geometric shapes, like so, so cutting them out perfectly is not an option: http://i33.tinypic.com/6p80up.jpg
My designs have white backgrounds and no white in the designs themselves, so I do not want white ending up on the shirts. What kind of transfer paper should I buy? If someone could direct me the right away I'd appreciate it. Again, thanks so much for the help.
Hi, I am not an expert (yet) but it seems like you have a big problem. There are already transfer paper out there that are called self weeding ( weeding is the process of removing unwanted material from the design after it has been cut ) Unfortunately, it sound like you are a hobbyist and therefore I would surmise that you neither have a cutter nor a commercial press. Self weeding paper requires that the polyester material be completely melted on to the shirt so high heat is probably a must, it also requires certain amount of dwell ( time elapsed heat is applied), all this considered if you are willing to continue your endeavor, search for self weeding transfer paper in the forum and you will find your answer. Good luck.
I don't know if I can use the self weeding paper because I don't have a heat press. I think I might have to stick with transfers for light colored shirts and use an iron. Which brands have leave little to no polymer windows? That's my biggest concern since I can't trim.
I use SuperSoft paper which I buy from Starline Pacific in Phoenix AZ or Vancouver BC. Hey that kind of rhymes... it leaves a trace transparent coating which comes out in a wash or two. This only works on whites though.
The print is NOT as durable by any means as a full color silkscreen print, but you can design and print a white tshirt in 5 minutes. I use it for printing full color photos for people with a little text added. After the first wash, you lose the coating which takes away the stiffness, and the colors will lose some brilliance. After that, with careful washing (NO BLEACH!) it will last about 6 or 7 washes before looking 'vintage'.
Another advantage is that these shirts can be ironed (unlike plastisol transfers) since the ink forms part of the fiber of the shirt.
Hope this helps!
Cheers
Last edited by MayanXic; July 20th, 2008 at 11:05 AM.
Hi. If you only plan on doing a few of these, you can carefully cut around the design with a scalpel.
Ironing will never give you the same professional results as a heat press, but if you are only doing a few, it isn't necessary. Just turn of the steam and press down hard.
Hi. Lay some newspapers under your transfer, so it's only the transfer you cut through. Cut around the basic shape with scissors first. Stick the transfer to the newspaper with blue tack and carefully cut around with a scalpel or craft knife. Aim for cutting about 2mm from the edge of the design. Carefully lift your design from the paper and you're done.
Hey, thanks for the advice!
Will do, I guess patience is key and then no polymer window.
If I am going to cut it myself, I might as well go with opaque since I have read that opaque is more durable.
Supersoft and Everlast soft are both the same paper, it is "Ironall" for lights. Translusion and Jetflex are also the same paper. They just have different names depending on who sells it.
Ironall can be hand ironed, we have done it with excellent results. You do have to use pigment ink with Ironall, and depending on what shirt you use, Ironall can tend to fade, but I found that Jerzees HW 50/50 cotton poly blend, used with pigment ink, held up very well, and had excellent colorfastness. I tested about 6 brands, in both the 100% cotton and 5050 blend to try to find the best one to use with Ironall to avoid Ironall's tendency to fade. That shirt was the winner for me, bc the 5050 also gave it a nice wrinkle free finish. Ironall has a very soft feel, stretches with the shirt, and since it is soft, the window isn't too bad, especially when you trim close.
You can find Ironall at one of the preferred vendors, check for a discount for members, or google it to find suppliers. I use New Milford Photo for my supplies on that, and others choose Coastal. It just depends on who you like and their prices. For your low quantity of shirts, you may want to look for a sample pack of Ironall. Google Sample Ironall (or one of it's other names to find it) for results. I believe NMP had a 5 pk sample, not sure anymore. Best regards to you, Kelly
Generally opaque is not more durable... what paper did you read about that is supposed to be more durable than a light paper? Dark paper is thicker, with a heavier hand, literally like laying a piece of vinyl upon a shirt. Light paper only transfers the polymer coating with the ink, and the polymer embeds into the fiber of the shirt, rather than sitting "on top" of the shirt like an opaque. Some folks who will use paper for lights, will never use papers for darks until one as good as papers for lights is available.
If opaque isn't more durable, then I won't use it. I must've read something wrong-- I forget the brand, I just had the impression that opaque would be durable. If not, I don't need opaque anyways, so I'll be fine.
I have the Jerzeez 50/50, but unfortunately I only have an inkjet printer-- specifically the HP PSC1510, and the ink is just plain old dye-based stuff.
Would I be better off looking around like a general Arts and Crafts store? I mean they probably have more consumer based stuff there.
x'fer papers available at office depot and your local walmart store ( look for Hanes brand) produce acceptable results if you do not expect it to last more than 5 washings ( of course it might be better if applied with commercial press). After the 5 washing it will acquire the distressed look, so make sure you do not use it on a pricey t-shirt. If you buy the paper from walmart, and applied it with an iron from walmart, then you must apply it on a t-shirt from walmart...make sense ? No pun intended, just plain logic. I have used the hanes paper for my test prints, and they have held up nice over a few washings, after which, the shirts are relegated to an undergarment or sleeping garment, better yet as wardrobe for walmart shopping.
Question with Transfer Papers 
Re: Question with Transfer Papers 
