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Girlzndollz · July 18th, 2008

For a cheap way to use opaque paper to make letters without a cutter or using scissors, some folks use scrapbooking die cutters -- cutting systems used by the scrapbooking world.

Some systems are cheap and some cheaper, others can run some money, but the more expensive ones ($200 -$350) can also cut thinner vinyl.

Check them out at craft stores like Joann's, Michael's, AC Moore. Walmart carries some of the systems as well. A google search will return hits.

Girlzndollz · July 18th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jokofix


	You're right. The grade of fading but also the vividness of the colors depend on the formulation of the coating and if the paper (coating) is designed to accept all kind of inks it should have enough protection against water and light but there is one however.

There are so many shades of black shirts, and shades of black ink, I wouldn't even bother with this process. The OP mentioned dark shirts, but the same is true with Navy Blue shirts and inks, as well as the other dark colors.

Second, the dye in the shirt will fade over time, and to look good, the ink will need to fade at the same rate.

There are too many variables to predict with this method, IMO, and I would just use one of the other methods mentioned in this thread that have a higher reliablity rate.

White opaque paper may not hold up as long as white vinyl, but at least the only thing fading will be the shirt.

Juliet · July 24th, 2008

I've mixed white vinyl and opaque transfer paper on the same shirt (black shirt). The opaque transfer paper had allot of white in the design. After I pressed it, I saw the white of the paper was not as bright as the white vinyl....so if you have a heat press and you are just putting basic white text on a dark shirt, I would recommend cutting them (if you can) or ordering them pre-cut out of heat transfer vinyl. Some vinyl can be pressed in about 10 seconds, peel off the Mylar or cover sheet hot, fold the shirt...bam...your done.

Jokofix · July 24th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Girlzndollz


	Second, the dye in the shirt will fade over time, and to look good, the ink will need to fade at the same rate. There are too many variables to predict with this method, IMO, and I would just use one of the other methods mentioned in this thread that have a higher reliablity rate.

I have set up my work flow as I know what paper I am using in what situation. I stick to that paper and do not swap over that much. That allows me to create my own custom ICC profiles matching paper/ink and fabric. Sure I only make profiles for the most commonly used fabrics but the rest comes close. That is so much reliable that I it allows me to match the colors from almost everything what is within the range of the color gamut of that profile.
If my customers want to have e.g. their special green what appears in their logo then he will get it. If they buy t-shirts with a fast fading quality, what I not have seen that much, is not really my problem and in addition; the transparent nature of the inks let me strongly believe that fading of the fabric will also impact the clarity of any print/ink in the same rate.

Girlzndollz · July 25th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jokofix


	If they buy t-shirts with a fast fading quality, what I not have seen that much, is not really my problem

That is my only concern with this process...

I'm sure you can match the background of the transfer to the shirt perfectly when freshly printed. No question there.

For me, I know using vinyl - or another process in which I did not match the ink in the transfer background to the shirt color - that after 10 washes - that shirt will still present nicely bc there is no fade variance going on.

This is just for me, what I am looking for in a shirt product. You should absolutely use whatever printing process you are comfortable with. Best regards, Kelly

Jokofix · July 25th, 2008

May be we have the differences right there. If it comes to inks I deal with many different substrates and that does not stop with cottons or polyester products. If talking about transfer papers I am always solely focused on those designed for 100% cotton and 50% - 50% blends.

sjidohair · July 25th, 2008

Black shirt
Dark shirt transfer paper, which has a white underbase
get graphic ready, go to the part you want white,
put white in there,( it actually is not there, but shows white,)
the rest has to have color around the image,
print it,
press it
It shows up white, and washes well, for me too, it is not pure white,, but them again, the only thing that is pure white is vinyl, even screen printing is not pure white,, in my experience,
it works try it.
Sandy Jo

Jokofix · July 25th, 2008

Thanks Monkey, that confirmation was just where we was looking for and what people can use to start with.

Girlzndollz · July 26th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjidohair


	Black shirt Dark shirt transfer paper, which has a white underbase get graphic ready, go to the part you want white, put white in there,( it actually is not there, but shows white,) the rest has to have color around the image, print it, press it It shows up white, and washes well, for me too, it is not pure white,, but them again, the only thing that is pure white is vinyl, even screen printing is not pure white,, in my experience, it works try it. Sandy Jo

Black shirt with a green background I "would" do... thanks for the instructions, Sandy Jo...

I agree, Jokofix, I think you have special inks you work with, don't you? I couldn't trust my Durabrite to stand up to the job... but like the idea. I just don't use the tools to pull it off.

ashamutt · July 26th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jokofix


	I have set up my work flow as I know what paper I am using in what situation. I stick to that paper and do not swap over that much. That allows me to create my own custom ICC profiles matching paper/ink and fabric. Sure I only make profiles for the most commonly used fabrics but the rest comes close. That is so much reliable that I it allows me to match the colors from almost everything what is within the range of the color gamut of that profile. If my customers want to have e.g. their special green what appears in their logo then he will get it. If they buy t-shirts with a fast fading quality, what I not have seen that much, is not really my problem and in addition; the transparent nature of the inks let me strongly believe that fading of the fabric will also impact the clarity of any print/ink in the same rate.

So...do you sell HT pigment inks ??? for my EPSON C120 and epson 1400???

ALSO... what transfer paper do you sell...red grid, blue grid, joto,neenah...etc...???

taikuodo · July 26th, 2008

Wait, let me get this straight. (Im a noob to heat transfers).

If i buy a color laser printer like the Okidata 3400, some DuraCotton HT transfer paper, I can't print WHITE?

Trimere_Ink · July 26th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by taikuodo


	Wait, let me get this straight. (Im a noob to heat transfers). If i buy a color laser printer like the Okidata 3400, some DuraCotton HT transfer paper, I can't print WHITE?

Unless you've discovered the first printer to include White Ink...no.

badalou · July 26th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunnydayz


	There are some people that do it that way. The fading doesnt always come from the ink so much as it just doesnt hold up on the paper. What kind of paper are you using?

I saw on his web site he sells translution paper.. That is Iron All paper under the other name.

taikuodo · July 26th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trimere_Ink


	Unless you've discovered the first printer to include White Ink...no.

So all of those prints with white in them, are they speciality custom printed?

The plastisol transfers that you order online?

Trimere_Ink · July 26th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by taikuodo


	So all of those prints with white in them, are they speciality custom printed? The plastisol transfers that you order online?

That's how I do it. I currently use Transfer Express and occasionally Versa Trans as my suppliers. You can use their templates and clip art to make designs, or upload your own. Pricing is by sheets and you can gang up multiple images on one sheet depending on the size of the design and such. They have Plastisol transfers, they call em Goof Proof and sorta like a vinyl called Hot Split, plus Digital and Photo prints. Digi Prints are great for nylon, spandex, and lycra and it stretches with the material. I think you should seriously check it out...at least to start. I eventually will be adding a dedicated epson printer with a pigment CIS to do the smaller one or two pop shots, but I put my money into software this year instead of hardware/equipment. But it works and I don't have to worry about if my colors are going to bleed or w/e the normal concerns are with home transfer printing.
That's just me though.

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