Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
Hey folks, Jizzy here with a couple questions to ask and opinions to get please. I got my Hix HT600D 16x20 press this week and finally got all set up today and ready to do some pressing, i followed all the instructions from the transfer company (pre heat garment,375 degrees, pressure i would say was medium, and 8-10 seconds press time.. hot peel transfers by the way) and i know im new to this and i know mistakes will be made but i went through all my transfers, 10 to be exact and all got ruined.. see the first 2 or 3 i thought i read on here that the pressure should be like if you put a piece of paper on the press and closed it, it should feel some pressure but still be able to pull out without yanking on it. so thats what i went by. laid my shirt down, pre heat for like 8 seconds lifted up the top, got my plastisol transfer in place, closed, time was set for 9 seconds, lifted when time was up and peeled slowly and edges were lifting a little and some didnt stick to the shirt and was stuck to the paper, so i applyed a little more pressure and set it for 10 seconds, pretty much the same thing.. i am very confused..i know i need a lot more practice and also the transfers seemed a little not to what i was expecting, I know people say that you can not really tell the diffrence between the transfer and a screen printed shirt. is there anyway whites can be whiter, beacause im doing these on colored shirts (blacks and dark colors) and you can see right through it pretty much . also are there companys that can make the paints seem a little more thick instead of feeling so thin? jus a thought, you people are great with helping with these matters and i appeciate all the responses.. thanks
Last edited by ajizzy; August 25th, 2006 at 10:39 PM.
i thought i read on here that the pressure should be like if you put a piece of paper on the press and closed it, it should feel some pressure but still be able to pull out without yanking on it. so thats what i went by. laid my shirt down, pre heat for like 8 seconds lifted up the top, got my plastisol transfer in place, closed, time was set for 9 seconds, lifted when time was up and peeled slowly and edges were lifting a little and some didnt stick to the shirt and was stuck to the paper, so i applyed a little more pressure and set it for 10 seconds, pretty much the same thing.. i am very confused..
hi Alex, You sound like me when i first got my machine and tried pressing shirts.
Its' fraustrating, I know.
Transfer types, equipment and the enviroment where the work is done play a part to achieve perfect results.
Lets start with transfer type. "Hot Split"
With hot peel/split transfers have a look at the transfer first. Look to see how much ink is there on the transfer. If its thick, it is a High Opque Transfer, if its normal it a regular opaque or light for light color shirts.
With hot split/peel transfers, if its not working/sticking to the shirt, as a general rule you need to increase the Pressure, so when you release/open the top plate the press jerks a little. Again it the depends on the press machine.
When the hot spit/peel transfer instructions read PEEL HOT, you need to peel Immediately, if you wait at all it wont work. Peel from the left bottom side towards the top right side of the transfer away from the press. (when you are right handy)
Look at the transfer PAPER for the transfer that DID NOT work.
Was there some of the INK still left on the Transfer Paper ? the more ink left on the paper the more you need to adjust your application. Usually you need More Pressure.
With Perfefet applications, there should be NO INK AT ALL left on the paper after Application.
When the Transfer gets stuck to the shirt it ussually means you did NOT peel it QUICK. "Hot Peel".
The transfer did NOT complete transfering the INK to the Shirt because of not enough heat, pressure, did not peel quick or all of the 3.
put a piece of paper on the press and closed it, it should feel some pressure but still be able to pull out without yanking on it.
Not on Hot split.. bad info I would say. All my instructions say Medium to heavy pressure. I think that was your problem. I think Lucy is our resident pro on this stuff as I am only getting started. So listen to her. Lou
Not on Hot split.. bad info I would say. All my instructions say Medium to heavy pressure. I think that was your problem. I think Lucy is our resident pro on this stuff as I am only getting started. So listen to her. Lou
Yep, Lou may be on to it there, increase the pressure dont be scared. I know the feeling of working with a Huge 16x20 Press, I was scared even to go near the darn thing never mind touching it.
Resident pro I dont think so, got zapped by the hot top plate yesterday -ouch!.
Thanks Lou, you're nice.
This could be my big Ticket to Hollywood Eh! Lou ?
Hey, I'l go press some samples ( frugal give wayas lol ) and post some photos here.
To do with Hot Split transfer TYPE for Printing on All Fabric Colors (black t's etc.).
Alex,
Its ok to screw up when your learning the Trade, it is a Trade so it will take a little time, you're doing fine.
Any tips on pressing the tag on the inside neck of the shirt. So far I've been turning the shirts inside out, and pulling the neck over the corner of the press. But this whole part takes longer than pressing the image on the front of shirt. -Especially on shirts for the toddlers.
HAs anyone ever mounted little hooks under the bottom plate, to temporarily hold the neck in place? Darn necks just don't want to stay put.
Any helpful hints? I think I read Lou one time was using a mouse pad, or something.
Yeah big ticket to Hollywood.. That's me.. I was an actor in Hollywood in the 60's.. All I heard was "don't quite your day job.." I left with my head hung low. Then I returned in the 90's with a great day job and I didn't need Hollywood. but just when I thought I was through.. they pulled me back in.. this time I wrote 3 screenplays.. and a novel.. you know what they said.. "don't quite your day job". But I fooled them all.. yeah.. I quite my day job.. I retired and got out of Hollywood... Now I sit in some dusty little out of the way town, drinking coffee, cup after cup.. sometime I get up because my fans can't wait, yeah.. I am writing again.. this time the world is noticing me.. yeah.. I am big time.. Just the other day I got an email from India.. they asked.. Lou, How long for the pre-press? "TOP OF THE WORLD MA!!!
Any tips on pressing the tag on the inside neck of the shirt. So far I've been turning the shirts inside out, and pulling the neck over the corner of the press. But this whole part takes longer than pressing the image on the front of shirt. -Especially on shirts for the toddlers.
HAs anyone ever mounted little hooks under the bottom plate, to temporarily hold the neck in place? Darn necks just don't want to stay put.
Any helpful hints? I think I read Lou one time was using a mouse pad, or something.
Pressing near the Edges or Corners of your press-plate is " Risky Business ".
I have learned that every so often you ruin a shirt with edge-pressing.
I think this is because near the edges of the press plates you may not get the same heat and pressure properties as you do with plate center-pressing.
This is When a Hat Press Comes in Handy.
Pressing lables with a hat press is easy, you just insert the small area of the shirt neck line and heat press.
So if you make your Labels 2" tall x4" maximum size for this type Label Placement its a bonus because it will work with most Hat Presses, Heck! why not print up some Hats while you're at it ? Bwahahahahah!!
As for your how to ? w/a heat press.
I do it by inserting a Teflon pillow (it slides in/out of the shirt easy) inside the shirt and press the Inside Neck Label on.
Thanks for the info, also should i always place the teflon sheet on top of my garment when applying my transfer? and also do i need to have the teflon sheet on top also when im pre heating the garment? also are there diffrent thicknesses to the transfers to make them seem a to have more of a screen printed feel? also is there any way to make whites more white without looking like a greyish color because i could see through it, also it was like that on most of the transfers..i can see through yellows and other colors . thanks Lucy and Lou i dont know what i would do without u folks..
Thanks for the info, also should i always place the teflon sheet on top of my garment when applying my transfer?
NO NEED TO. Quick Tip Alex: If you ever do that because of other reasons, be sure to add a few seconds to your pressing-time. Because now the Heat source needs to travel thru the Teflon to the transfer. Very minute but it makes a big difference.
and also do i need to have the teflon sheet on top also when im pre heating the garment?
NO.
Quick Tip Alex:When pre-heating the garment, simply bring the top press-plate down on the garment and hold/press it down, no need to CLAMP-LOCK and UNLOCK the heat plate. Its faster this way.
also are there diffrent thicknesses to the transfers to make them seem a to have more of a screen printed feel?
No difference. Screen Printed Transfers or Direct to Garment Screen Printing are more or less the same. The More ink used the More Thick the Inks will be on the shirt.
also is there any way to make whites more white without looking like a greyish color because i could see through it, also it was like that on most of the transfers..i can see through yellows and other colors .
Printing Light Colors on to Color Shirts Most consummers will not notice this with regular opaque prints. You do because you are in the biz. For High opaque prints, You need Thicker Ink spread or an extra White base.
thanks Lucy and Lou i dont know what i would do without u folks..
No problem, still working on getting those photo samples to paste here.
Lucy
Alex, I tried to answer your questions the best I could. If red is not your color let me know.
It doesn't hurt anything to use a teflon sheet over the top of your transfers. For plastisol, I find it helps keep the transfer paper down flat so it has less tendency to shift. For regular transfers, I've heard that the inks may bleed out around the edges slightly, so you may want the teflon to catch any slight run off if you cut very close to the image. For transfering vinyl, teflon is absoluely necessary.
There really isn't any reason at all to sue teflon when pre-pressing though, so don't worry about it there. You certainly don't need the teflon for plastisol, but you may find it helps -- I suggest trying it both ways =)
It doesn't hurt anything to use a teflon sheet over the top of your transfers. For plastisol, I find it helps keep the transfer paper down flat so it has less tendency to shift. For regular transfers, I've heard that the inks may bleed out around the edges slightly, so you may want the teflon to catch any slight run off if you cut very close to the image. For transfering vinyl, teflon is absoluely necessary.
There really isn't any reason at all to sue teflon when pre-pressing though, so don't worry about it there. You certainly don't need the teflon for plastisol, but you may find it helps -- I suggest trying it both ways =)
Twinge with NO SO GOOD plastisol transfers you will have bleed problems, we are talking about good quality transfers i think.
As for using Teflon when it is NOT needed, you are PEELING 2 TIMES. The teflon then the transfer paper. MORE not neccessary WORK and takes longer to finish the JOB.
By doing it 2 Times you are creating jobs...... Better Run for President next Election.........Bwahahahaha
Twinge with NO SO GOOD plastisol transfers you will have bleed problems, we are talking about good quality transfers i think.
As for using Teflon when it is NOT needed, you are PEELING 2 TIMES. The teflon then the transfer paper. MORE not neccessary WORK and takes longer to finish the JOB.
Read a little more closely =) I've never heard of plastisol transfers bleeding, but regular transfers apparently can. The only advantage I see with the teflon cover as far as pastisol goes is to keep it in place better.
Pulling off the teflon to the side really isn't peeling, but you are correct that it is one extra step of work. That's why I suggested they try it both ways and see what works best.
As an additional note, if you are working with vinyl stuff a lot it might be best to just use teflon all the time to be in the habit of it, so you don't accidentally forget it with some vinyl lettering (or whatever) and create a sticky mess glued to your top platen ;)
Below is a BANANA PEEL TYPE TRANSFER, no just kiddin', its a HOT PEEL TYPE TRANSFER.
This is your basic med-opaque HOT PEEL transfer to print on all fabric colors.
Noticed that the transfer paper after I press it there is NO INK LEFT on the paper. Well, you can see the DESIGN there some what, but when you feel it you feel NO ink left on the paper at ALL. This means ALL the Ink transfered to the shirt. A perfect Press.
When there is Ink left on the paper it means that NOT all the INK transfered to the shirt. So the application and end result is not perfect.
My settings: Pre-heat 2-3 seconds. Press for 6 seconds at 375F HOT PEEL.
Have a look:
This is the BANANA PEEL Transfer lol
This is It Printed ( notice the Metallic Silver Ink Also ? )
Pressing near the Edges or Corners of your press-plate is " Risky Business ".
I have learned that every so often you ruin a shirt with edge-pressing.
I think this is because near the edges of the press plates you may not get the same heat and pressure properties as you do with plate center-pressing.
This is When a Hat Press Comes in Handy.
Hope it helps some Kent.
Thanks Lucy, I haven't ruined a shirt yet, it's just that doing the labels is finnicky. I have thought about the hat press thing, but may try the teflon pillow first.
(My transfers look great by the way. And I'm well on my way to making $100 !!! LOL )
New Press and doing tests with samples 
