Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
I dont know how popular this thread will be. I read and read and read all diff types of threads not only on this forum but other areas of the web as well. I would like to know if someone wants to do Heat Press Transfers what is the best setup to use.
Laser printer - Duracotton, Imageclip, any other laser paper?????
Inkjet - the new self weeding paper??????
Plastisol Transfers - ???
I have in my posession a Hix HT400 Heat press, 2 Epson printers ( Stylus C80, and Epson 980 Photo printer.) The heat press works great i tested it with an old T Shirt and old old transfers from X-It. I picked the press up for 15 dollars at a grage sale so i say i lucked out.
Anyways i need to know everyones opinion on what would be the best setup for me now keep in mind I WANT TO PRINT MY OWN DESIGNS. I also want to do this mobiley. I have slotted areas in the next coming fairs for me to setup a booth or tent to sell my items. I want them to be able to come and pick out the design, color of the shirt, and then i print and press and they go happy.
Please let me know what would be best bet i really do not want to get involved with screenprinting although i have been using Photoez and Stencilez for the last 2 years now and it works good but too much equipment to take on the road. Please let me know what you all think. If i have to buy a laser printer i will if thats best for doing transfers but i will take what everyone says and compare all info and budget and then decide from there. Thanks all.
Plastisols = no printer, toner, paper to cart around. Laser has limitations in printing pastel colors sometimes. Imageclip is a no window laser paper, but it is a two step process to get that result, that adds to wait time. Printing the images with printers, either laser or inkjet takes time, customers prefer not to wait that long. Press times with lasers and inkjet papers are longer, customers like to buy and get going. You could do dye sub, but that uses polyester fabric, but you'd still have the print time, ink/toner issues, and wait times involved with the other printer methods. I do not know of a self weed inkjet paper that is working with excellent reviews yet.
For best portability, most ease of use, fastest service with excellent, no trimming needed results, I would go plastisols if you were to ask me.
Good luck at the fairs, whichever you decide to use.
Ok but how to do plastisol transfers myself is the issue??.. I have plastisol inks, screens, and the photoez stuff but i need to know if i wanted to do this how would i create half tones or fades in color with the plastisol ink??? Also what paper do i print the the transfers on?? i was told once a while ago that i can use wax paper from the store but who knows about that?? I was reading up on the Sefl weeding Ink Jet paper and about 85-90 percent of what i read says its a great paper??? Anyways thanks for your opinion kelly i will take it under serious condsideration.
How about the issues of aging? I thought plastisols degrade over time. I am finding laser printing designs up via DCHT or IC, put them in a book and at a show, customers thumb through the book and find the design they want. If I run out I have a choice, I can either print it on my 88+ with JPSS or I can ship it to them. So far this has worked well. I am only wasting a few extra prints here and there. I also hear that Plastisol is alot more expensive than laser prints. Has anyone done the math? I would love to hear more thoughts. I hesitate to go plastisol because I like to change and fuss over my designs whenever I want.
__________________ www.stuffnthingz.com - "You can never have too much stuff", however, "The best things in life aren't things" is also true. XPS1530 | DK20 | Mighty Press 15 |Chinese hat press | Oki5800 | 88+ | LP24
Ok but how to do plastisol transfers myself is the issue??.. I have plastisol inks, screens, and the photoez stuff but i need to know if i wanted to do this how would i create half tones or fades in color with the plastisol ink??? Also what paper do i print the the transfers on??
I've seen folks recommend plastisol release papers on the forum. Try a search on that. You do have good points on the learning curve of making your own plastisols, but that is definitely discussed on the forum, so hopefully you can get some help getting through the learning curve.
I did have in mind the plastisols you custom order from your designs when I posted. If you don't feel like you can learn how to make the plastisols in time for the fairs, maybe you could have your designs made for you so you are ready for the fairs, while you learn the technique. Dunno. Just thoughts about that, but I do know folks have recommended plastisol release papers, so hopefully that will help you out.
OK TM... I do not know what DCHT or IC is??? I think they may be papers like DCHT is Duracotton HT and IC im drawing a blank. I think the same as you design wise i love to change and add diff things to my designs especially if the person sees fit to order a custom like a skull but wants there name or some other writing with it. Some thing like that so what you say is Laser Printer with Laser Printed Heat Transfers. But the way you say you like to have them thumb through and decide is what i want to do. Anyways thanks for your info and I am leaning towards the Laser printer method. but i am waiting to hear pros and cons of dye sub, vinyl heat transfer, but when you get into those i have to buy more expensive equipment, ie cutter, vinyl, new inks, blah blah blah.. Thanks again.
I dont think i will have a problem with learning what i need to. My issue is what is my best setup for what i have in mind. I am trying to get all info and facts onto one thread so i can read all the pros and cons not from professionals opinions but from people like us who have their own little thing going ( not saying your thing is little i dont know so please dont take offense) I want people to state what they experienced and what they feel is the best bet for someone trying to do what i am trying to do. Thanks.
No worries, Nick. That was what I was trying to help you with. I also don't think you'll have any trouble learning how to make a plastisol bc you already screen, but just finding the products that will work best for you is a learning curve, not learning problem.
From your first post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by StackemHard
I also want to do this mobiley..... I want them to be able to come and pick out the design, color of the shirt, and then i print and press and they go happy.
But if you want to change and customize designs on the spot, obviously plastisols aren't going to work for you. Some of the other things you have left are:
Laser: If you want no window, then IC (Imageclip) is a nice paper to use. Printing pastels can be a problem, that's what Luis/Infortun says and he uses the paper alot.
Inkjet: If you have designs that you can get away without trimming, for light shirts Jetprosofstretch can work for you. If you have dark shirts, you'll need an opaque paper. With inkjet, you'll have to be careful with your design to make sure you won't need to trim, an alternative would be to prepare them in advance. These can be printed/trimmed ahead of the fair. There are quite a few folks using the print ahead method when they go to flea markets. They still bring the printer, paper, and extra ink (always plan ahead for this when printing on site), so they can print more when stock runs low. In your case, it would be so you can add customization. There are a number of threads on this on the forum recently as it is the season for them again.
Dye sub: If you want to use polyester shirts, sulimination dye is a nice product that does not leave any window and has a soft feel. Light shirts. Doesn't work on cotton or cotton/blends. Find out if your printer has to move along with dye sub bulk ink system attached. I haven't heard of dye sub carts, tho they could exist.
Vinyl: You will need a cutter/plotter. If layering colors, keep in mind the number layers so the shirt does not become too heavy. A few colors, and this method could work for you, but if you want to customize on site, you'll still need to bring the cutter with you. Not a big deal, as most are desktop size. Ask folks who use vinyl how sensitive it is to heat if you are going to work outside in the sun. I have heard it can be tempermental, some of them.
Probably for all, you'll need a laptop if you want to customize on site.
Good luck, Nick. I hope you get the answers you seek. I would go with inkjet or laser myself. Best of luck at the fairs.
Last edited by Girlzndollz; May 28th, 2008 at 03:07 PM.
Thank you so much for your input. I really appreciate everything you said and i will look into what will be more feasible. i think as you say Inkjet or Laser is my best bet. I have not done too much with transfers so to speak and im sure they are great threads to help me through choosing a good paper for each method. Kelly one question when transfering an image to a dark tee shirt what is the process with an opaque paper.?? I have another question as for the guy who did the diy DTG printer i have epson C80 not 88 but should i try and do that im pretty good with my hands as i was a contractor for about 12 years. Let me know your input..
Kelly one question when transfering an image to a dark tee shirt what is the process with an opaque paper.??
For dark shirts, you would use a paper like Ironall Dark or Alpha Gold for Darks. It is basically a white vinyl that you print the image onto. You don't reverse the image. You print it like you would a document that you are going to read. After printing the image, you peel the vinyl off the backer paper, and place it face up with the image showing to you on the shirt. A piece of parchment paper is laid over top of the opaque paper, and then it is pressed for the number of seconds needed. Inkjet printers don't print white, and anywhere there is white in the design, it will use the opaque paper to make the white in the design. But also, wherever there is no ink, it will also be white, like say you print letters - it will be white inside the O's and D's, etc. So this paper needs to be trimmed out if not printed on a colored background. I guess that's it for me now. Best regards, Nick. I hope it all works out.
Unless you have two presses you can rule out using Imageclip in a fair. The transfer system requires two sets of time, temp and pressure. One set is for pressing the image paper with the polymer coated paper to transfer the polymer on the toner in the image paper. The other set is for pressing the image paper on the shirt.
Changing the time and pressure is not an issue. However, it takes time for the press to change temperature between the two required temperature.
BTW IC stands for Imageclip.
You will be better off using Duracotton HT. One word of caution it sometimes leave white polymer box on pastel colored shirt. For some apparent reason it shows up when the shirt is washed. So if the shirt color is white or ash I read users say the white box is not an issue.
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Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website
thank you.. I am still maybe leaning toward image clip i think it might be easier to just get a 2nd press because i really really dont want to deal with the window and it is the customers choice of t shirt color so i cant say ohh im sorry i cant do that cause it will leave a ugly white window on the shirt. Thats not very professional. Anyways thank you for your input and i will take it under advisement.
thank you.. I am still maybe leaning toward image clip i think it might be easier to just get a 2nd press because i really really dont want to deal with the window and it is the customers choice of t shirt color so i cant say ohh im sorry i cant do that cause it will leave a ugly white window on the shirt. Thats not very professional. Anyways thank you for your input and i will take it under advisement.
Nick
You will be happy using Imageclip on light color garments other than white or ash. It is a bit tricky to use at first but once you get the hang of it you will be pleased with the result.
Send me a PM when you decide to go with Imageclip and ready to start pressing. That way you minimize waste and time trying to figure out on how to make the transfer system work.
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Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website
I will do that. Thank you for your info. So what do you think about the new self weedinf paper?? if it doesnt work that well at least they are on the track and 1 step closer to the ultimate transfer paper.
Laser?..InkJet?...Imageclip?...Duracotton?? 
CorelDRAW macro author
