miktoxic

Hi all-
I've been following threads and looking up info on this forum but have yet to get a simple and clear picture of how professional looking (as if screenprinted) transfers are done. here is what i think i have learned (if i'm wrong please correct me):
i want to use my inkjet printer (pigment ink) to print onto the best transfer paper either for darks or lights. in order for the shirt to show through the design (like throught the middle of the letter 'o') the design has to be cut by hand or a plotter?
i understand the concept of having to do so using paper for darks as the concept of printing a white underlayer of ink i learned doing screenprinting and obviously the opaque transfer papers are just that in a square sheet. but printing onto a transfer paper for lights i thought the concept behind this was that what was printed on that paper would be relesed to the garment and nothing more.
am i missing something? is there a thread that explains the exact science of what i'm not getting? i printed a small pocket design of a friend's dog with maybe some 18pt type both b&w. printed it. trimmed it to a tight square around the boxy design and then transferred it as per the paper's specs for temp, pressure and duration. and the tee comes out looking fine except for this clear plastic like box that encased the design. nobody wants a shirt like that.
so is it custom plastisol, buy a plotter, or continue to print crap. thanks for your time.

 

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stuffnthingz

Rodney will come and save the day and give you links, but in the mean time, do a search on this forum for Jet Pro Softstretch. That is the transfer paper you will want for your injet printer. There are hours of threads to read on this topic (no polymer window) and on that product. I use my Epson 88+ for vending events and it with the JPSS work very well! Ok, I have a bit of an issue on pink bella shirts, the window barely shows...

Robert posted two laser products. I have a color laser printer and use DuraCotton, it rocks, but it very limited on what colors the window is "invisible" on. I have an ImageClip order on its way, I want to compare the color range I can print on between the two. WE are all so picky! With Duracotton I can safely print on white, natural, pink and very pale yellow and blue, but the Gildan yellow haze and light blue are too dark I haven't tried ash yet either.

 

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prometheus

In order for the ink to set to the paper, there has too be a thin emulsion that holds it there. Some papers have more, some less. That is why cutting helps. But obviously when it comes to small text this is nearly impossible.

DyeSub doesn't have an emulsion as the ink actually becomes part of the fabric. Also there is some laser transfers that don't leave this as well. ImageClip and DuraCotton, I believe. But I haven't used these and can't vouch for them.

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mrdavid

with JPSS you can trim right into the color I have been doing this from day one and have no problems with it and I even washed in bleach and it still likes very nice

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