Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
Yesterday I printed out a transfer and pressed it on a scrap t-shirt I had in the garage. I knew I was printing it with dye based ink off my Epson 1400 (Claria ink) as I wait for my pigment ink CIS from inkjetfly but they screwed up and are just now shipping my order :-\ I orderd it friday of last week.
Anyway. I pressed this scrap shirt I had with a picture I pulled off the internet On the JPSS Paper. I pressed it and I was super happy with how it came out. Knowing it was only dye based ink that I used I knew it wouldn't last in the washer from all the posts I read about how dye based would run on the shirt and everything.
Well I decided to have personal expierence myself and threw it into the washer with my jeans.
Then with the whites.
Then with the colors.
I washed this shirt 3 times and dried 3 times and it still looks like I just got finished printing it. It didnt run one bit. Maybe I'm lucky or something? But these dye based inks hold up pretty darn well for me.
I washed the shirt in cold hot and warm water and it all came out the same. I wish I could find my camera Id show you guys. Maybe this is nothing exceptional? But from all the posts ive read that say "NOO TO DYE BASED" Dye based actually worked out for me very well.
Wow, I was surprised to hear how well the dye ink held up! The last time I tried to use dye ink, I was using IronAll and it did fade considerably. However, even after I got the pigment ink in the C88, it still faded, so who knows, right?
One thing I did have was a little bleeding. It only happened once, but I believe it was caused by hubby leaving the wet laundry in the washer too long...
i to have printed with dye ink. at least i think i did. i have an epson r1800 i purchased for my screen positive. i use fast rip software that requires a dye based ink to print my positives. i replaced the mk black cartridge and left the other 7 cartridges which are pigmant based ink alone. i have printed plenty of transfers that have black ink in the design, and i have washed them plenty of times. the shirts hold up just as good as the ones i print with my c-88 that only has pigment inks.
i to have printed with dye ink. at least i think i did. i have an epson r1800 i purchased for my screen positive. i use fast rip software that requires a dye based ink to print my positives. i replaced the mk black cartridge and left the other 7 cartridges which are pigmant based ink alone. i have printed plenty of transfers that have black ink in the design, and i have washed them plenty of times. the shirts hold up just as good as the ones i print with my c-88 that only has pigment inks.
What type of paper did you print your transfers on? Do you think it also helps that you have the rip software and it would lay down more black ink? Im not sure if it would help it or affect it. Just a thought.
Although I printed mine right off the microsoft printing wizard so I have no rip or any other programs, and mine still came out nicely.
Yesterday I printed out a transfer and pressed it on a scrap t-shirt I had in the garage. I knew I was printing it with dye based ink off my Epson 1400 (Claria ink) as I wait for my pigment ink CIS from inkjetfly but they screwed up and are just now shipping my order :-\ I orderd it friday of last week.
Anyway. I pressed this scrap shirt I had with a picture I pulled off the internet On the JPSS Paper. I pressed it and I was super happy with how it came out. Knowing it was only dye based ink that I used I knew it wouldn't last in the washer from all the posts I read about how dye based would run on the shirt and everything.
Well I decided to have personal expierence myself and threw it into the washer with my jeans.
Then with the whites.
Then with the colors.
I washed this shirt 3 times and dried 3 times and it still looks like I just got finished printing it. It didnt run one bit. Maybe I'm lucky or something? But these dye based inks hold up pretty darn well for me.
I washed the shirt in cold hot and warm water and it all came out the same. I wish I could find my camera Id show you guys. Maybe this is nothing exceptional? But from all the posts ive read that say "NOO TO DYE BASED" Dye based actually worked out for me very well.
Hey Ivan,
Thank you, first. Next what blend is your shirt and what brand. I know you said scrap, but does it hopefully have a tag?
I was told dye will be dye, but Claria said water resistant, just like pigment does, but I was told still "no", because Pigment is encapsulated in plastic. Made sense. Then a senior member said they had Claria fade and wash terribly.
But - I ended up with fade free fabulous results with Ironall light, I still haven't found anyone as lucky as me. I used a Jerzee 5050 HW tee, I tested 8 against each other for Ironall, which has a big fade problem, but, this Jerzee is a champ with it.
My mind is completely piqued here. I wonder if you have discovered a lovely combination here. Please, if you wouldn't mind, keep track of your shirt and if you would be so kind, share your wash results as time goes by. Most appreciated.
Please don't forget to let me know if you have a fabric tag on that scrappy but lovely for now shirt, okay?
Great job experimenting, and you have the attention of "wash test junkies" far and wide now!!
not sure of the brand, as i get it here locally from a small shop. it has the blue grid on the black. its opaque transfer for darks. i know the shop also stocks specialty material brand vinyl for shirts, not sure if its by them or not.
Thank you, first. Next what blend is your shirt and what brand. I know you said scrap, but does it hopefully have a tag?
I was told dye will be dye, but Claria said water resistant, just like pigment does, but I was told still "no", because Pigment is encapsulated in plastic. Made sense. Then a senior member said they had Claria fade and wash terribly.
But - I ended up with fade free fabulous results with Ironall light, I still haven't found anyone as lucky as me. I used a Jerzee 5050 HW tee, I tested 8 against each other for Ironall, which has a big fade problem, but, this Jerzee is a champ with it.
My mind is completely piqued here. I wonder if you have discovered a lovely combination here. Please, if you wouldn't mind, keep track of your shirt and if you would be so kind, share your wash results as time goes by. Most appreciated.
Please don't forget to let me know if you have a fabric tag on that scrappy but lovely for now shirt, okay?
Great job experimenting, and you have the attention of "wash test junkies" far and wide now!!
Of course I don't mind! Im looking at my shirt right now (It never leaves my side, its my 1st and only heat transfer shirt I ever made )
The shirt is a Hanes 5.6oz I believe, its 100% cotton and its pretty beat up. This is the shirt I used to work when I working at UPS so its taken a beating.
I will be happy to share some more results. Tomorrow once I wash the rest of my clothes. The funny thing is, Its a white shirt, so when I washed it with jeans, the blue jeans were the ones that faded and not the image, It left my shirt a little blueish, but hardly though. Still funny to me though.
Maybe I'll pay my little brother 10 buks if he can find my camera so I can take some pictures of the shirt. Sadly though, I don't have a picture of the shirt when I 1st pressed it.
the brand i used is either color jet 4600 or color jet III. there both made by specialty materials. the ad states
designed for dye or pigmented water based inks. the cj-4600 is wide format that can be printed with solvent/ecosol printers. cj-III are 8.5 x 11 and 11 x 17 sheets designed for desktop inkjet printers and can be applied with a hand iron. print right reading. applies to most cotton blended fabrics. heat press both between 340-350 f for 15-20 seconds with meduim firm pressure. use our special 853 transfer mask to remove the image from the 4600 paper backing. peel cool.
the brand i used is either color jet 4600 or color jet III. there both made by specialty materials. the ad states
designed for dye or pigmented water based inks. the cj-4600 is wide format that can be printed with solvent/ecosol printers. cj-III are 8.5 x 11 and 11 x 17 sheets designed for desktop inkjet printers and can be applied with a hand iron. print right reading. applies to most cotton blended fabrics. heat press both between 340-350 f for 15-20 seconds with meduim firm pressure. use our special 853 transfer mask to remove the image from the 4600 paper backing. peel cool.
thats the ad word for word.
Sweet, It seems like you have the colorjet III if you're printing it out of the R1800. I was looking into buying this paper aswell, but once I get my GX-24 So I can cut and weed so I am no longer limited to just mainly whites or other light color shirts.
thats the set-up i have. dont forget you can also do signs with the gx-24. i didnt buy it for signs, but now im making more money on the signs and banners. just something to keep in mind, maybe give you even more reason to get one
thats the set-up i have. dont forget you can also do signs with the gx-24. i didnt buy it for signs, but now im making more money on the signs and banners. just something to keep in mind, maybe give you even more reason to get one
Yep exactly after reading and watching so much about the GX-24. I quickly fell in love. I know it will open new doors for me to enhance my heat pressing services and also put my foot in the door for the sign business.
i know how you feel. i have my eye on a new toy the roland versa camm vp540. print and cut all on one unit. at 20 grand its going to take a few more printed shirts and banners to get this bad boy.
Dye Ink. Its not so bad.. 
The last time I tried to use dye ink, I was using IronAll and it did fade considerably. However, even after I got the pigment ink in the C88, it still faded, so who knows, right? 
) 
